p2440 permanent code not clearing

Hi all, Im new to this forum with a 2011 4.6l tundra. In the fall I got all the idiot lights on my dash that correspond to the p2440 code. Auto Zone checked and suggested changing all the parts. I looked into the code and some videos . Long story short, as suggested in a videos I checked the hoses, all were clean and dry. At the same time i saw the positive battery cable corroded so i changed it, not knowing it would clear the code. All was fine till the freezing Boston weather came. Lights came back on. Took it to toyota and got the same p2440 code. Although they said it was the air switching valve on bank 2 not 1. $3000+ to fix it. So I bought a Bluedriver scanner to verify. It showed bank ! issue. Bought pumps from Amazon instead of the $500 toyota pump. Installed the bank 1, codes stayed. Now in limp mode. Bought a switching valve from amazon instead of the $400 toyota part. Installed in bank 1. Cleared the code, but the permanent code has not cleared. Also the idle isnt going down until its fully warmed up, almost like the old days when the bimetal chokes wouldnt let the idle speed down. Id really like to avoid getting raped by toyota. Other than the idle speed and permanent code not clearing all seems good.
Any thoughts?

 

Buy the hewitt aip bypass kit and you're worry free

 

Maybe... I thought about that. Unless that doesnt clear the permanent code. Thats what Im after.

 

The code is there because of checksum keeps tripping what ever has been done hasn't fixed why its tripping.

PS I wouldn't 100% trust a Blue scanner as they are generic and lack actual necessary data. Its one of the only can tools I know of that has UELA that states its not be trusted and uses 3rd party data bases that aren't managed by them.

 

Thanks for that. Assuming I did not fix it, wouldnt the idiot lights come back on? Any other suggestions where I might look for a problem , or what scanner would be trustworthy? Are there any sensors in the undercarraige that all the winter salt could have affected. Id go to a local mechanic, but the ones Ive been to dont seem competant for other than regular service and brake jobs. Unfortunately that includes the local dealer. So I have to do things myself.
Also, Ive seen one or two refrences to p2440 being connected to bank 2. But 99% say bank 1.

 

I miss read...
Are you saying it fixed it and there is no more Check engine light or issue, But in the DTC area it shows up under history but not active?
if so that's normal a last code may store in history for some time until a certain amount of time or till the checksum verifies its no longer longer a issue then it might be able to clear.
also not 100% if a BD can clean history code.

 

NueveTundra,
All I can say is that the pump and check valve have been replaced. To elaborate, the pump is a generic Amazon part. When I put power to it out on the bench, I got a little air blowing through the housing. With all the rain we get I saw that as a potential issue . So i disassembled it, and inspected the sealant in both sections of the housing. Both were not properly sealed. At that point, i removed, and installed the original fan unit since it was spotless. Only the housing was bad from frozen screws, and the filter soaked. I used the new housing and old fan motor. (I trust oem more than Amazon), sealed it properly and installed it. The check valve was installed as new. Branded Toyota, but who knows for sure. The old one was open when i blew into it.

 

@Blunder im not super familiar with the 4.6, but aren’t the valves a pair? If not I would replace both of them.

The code will go away when it’s fixed, and the cheap scanner will clear codes as well.

 

Hewitt and be done with it.

 

The 4.6 has each bank's check valve mounted to the left and right valve cover. About a 15 minute swap for the right bank. And about the bypass... I thought about it but want the correct fix, since once i leave Boston, the truck will be sold here. Ill get something new when I move to a snow free state.

 

Just an update. After a lot of searching I found there are a couple specific ways to clear this code. I had them bookmarked but cant find them or Id post the links. The first is from Toyota service and seemed too complicated to do. It required three runs. The second went like this and the times were very specific:
Start the vehicle and idle at least 20 seconds. Next drive at least 40mph for a minimum of ten minutes. Then without turning off the key, idle for another twenty seconds.
I did this extending the idle time on both ends and ran it for almost fifteen minutes, just to be sure I had the times right. And since I had to drive home, I did it again. Permanent code is clear. So for $400 I got the new style horn (a joke), a pair of pumps and the switching valve (with 4 year warranty added on). Much better than paying the dealer 3K+. Now I can look into the bypass.
Like Nuevatundra suggested, it can take awhile. I think thats because you have to randomly meet the specific parameters.

 

Glad you got it fixed!