Painful last minute post - 4.6 A760 4x4 transmission fluid check temperature

Hi John, @Rocko9999 <From Gen 2.5 thread>
You are the first to post about the 2nd Gen 4.6L A760 trans having a different check temperature than the AB60. This is late in the game for an ask, but I plan to dump the fluid in the 4.6/A760 2010 tomorrow. Can you reveal the source of this information?

A post upstream shows TSB TC009-07 lists all 07 Tundras (2Gen) as 115 - 133F with no mention of engine or trans type. Hmm... Its not much of a difference and I guess its related to the pan volume at those temperatures OR the operating temperature of the two different transmissions? Higher op temps equal higher fluid levels and vice versa. That said, it seems checking it at lower temps is a safe bet? Well unless my thinking is wrong? Thoughts anyone?

As best I know, my 2010 4x4 with 108K miles has never had fluid dumped and has no obvious seeps or leaks. It does have the tow package cooler. I also have a 2013 Lexus IS-350 RWD with the same A760 RWD trans, which I dumped the pan/filter from at 100K (late IMO) and filled with Amsoil. Its temp check range tops at 115F IIRC, which *doesn't align with the numbers posted above. Anyway, 20K and no issues with the 350 and it gets hammered on.

Any input on the 4.6L/A760 fluid temp check is welcome. This is by means of OBD scanner, not paperclip method.

If anyone knows an answer in 12 hours that would be great!
Thanks!

Edit at *

 

Dont know the specific temperature range, but I imagine the OBD "hack" still works for your truck. You jumper a couple pins with a paperclip and do a little dance with the shifter to enter a mode where the truck will notify you when ATF is at correct temp for the level check.

The following video describes the process at about 8 mins:

https://youtu.be/cB8MdGgwg68?si=Ur5kCayiqsIJkABb

 

Thanks. Without knowing what the tow package oil return line feeds, I would not recommend this method. More often than not, cooled oil lubricates bushings, thrust surfaces, and other reciprocating components that require oil.

I would not starve that return line without knowing what it feeds once cooled. Maybe it drops in the pan? I doubt it!

Job is done.

 

I refer only to the LEVELING PROCEDURE in the video and NOT the fluid exchange portion.

Personally, I use the simple drain and fill method, and have done 4 over the last 40k miles I've owned the truck.

I would DEFINITELY avoid dropping the pan as I've heard the strainer should not need replacing in the vast majority of situations, and you WILL break pan bolts.

I would also ONLY USE Toyota WS- ATF... but the OP didn't ask about any of this. Only requested info regarding the leveling process.

Hope this clears things up.

 

... You ARE the OP

Glad you got it handled

 

TO BE CONTINUED - Gotta Get other stuff DONE! Pictures and details coming....

For anyone wanting a quick rundown on A760 fluid dump that exchanged 5.5 quarts of the 11.8 this unit holds, here is what I did after moving the trailers, cars, and leveling the truck.

Prerequisites: Drain pan, 2 gal bucket, trash bag for drips when pan is off, HF $10 hand pump, 7qts or 2 gallons of oil ATF of your choice, oil filter and pan gasket, new crush washers for drain and overflow bolts. Oh, and a paperclip.

** I am not responsible for you or your truck. Use this information at your own risk. **

1) Level your truck and get the rear wheels off the ground. Block securely.
2) Find the Fill Plug and Confirm the bolt will loosen. The A760H 4x4 has this on the left side in the adapter plate from the trans to the transfer case. Its easier reached after removing a bracket holding the downstream O2 sensor.
Connect your OBD port reading hardware and configure it for A/T Oil Temp 2 (TH02). I had both A/T Oil Temp 1 and 2 on display using OBD Fusion App and phone. TH01 monitors system line pressure used on clutches, and brakes. TH02 is used as a basis for modifying the ECT shift timing control when the ATF temperature is high. It is also used for the ATF temperature warning light. Or use the paper clip method. Your choice.
- Don't run the engine to long as a warm day will shoot the temperature over the check mark in 5 or less.
- Tow package vehicles, push in the plunger and stick a paper clip in it. Mine was clean and moved pretty easy.
- With gauge configured, place your drain pan under higher up bolt in the middle of the pan. This is the overflow check point. At this time I cracked the bolt loose.
3) I pulled the overflow plug at 110F and nothing came out. Let it warm to 140F and still nothing. The smart thing would have been to add fluid to see how low it was but I didn't. Snug overflow plug by hand if your level was good.
4) Shut off engine and drain fluid from rear most plug into taller bucket. It minimizes splash.
5) When it quits trickling, start the engine and briefly tap the accelerator pedal to hit 3k or so. Shut off engine. This action gets another quart of fluid out. *note1.
6) When dripping slows, install drain bolt.
7) Lay out a large garbage bag and pin the corners down.
8) Remove pan bolts except 4 that are two inches from the ends of each side rail. Loosen the remaining bolts 4 pop the pan to knock it loose. Remove the rear most most pan bolts. Place your hand under the pan and remove the final pan bolts. Don't drop the pan it has a quart or more of oil in it. PS a 1/4" speed handle and 10mm socket offer good control here. I did use air tools for all but the remaining 2 bolts. *note2.
9) Dump pan oil into bucket. Either be amazed or cry and the debris stuck to the magnets. Mine was near spotless. Previous owner wasn't big on maintenance but kept all records and there was no mention of fluid change.
10) Remove old gasket, clean pan, magnets, and transmission pan rail. I used lacquer thinner. Ideal is these surfaces are oil and debris free when installed to minimize future seeping.
11) Optional - drop the filter to get more oil out. Replace filter or not. It's your vehicle. Not knowing the history on this one, I replaced it. I suggest a new O-ring and Toyota filter. *note3
12) Install new filter and O-ring being certain to lube O-ring and trans.
13) Install pan and snug all bolts to a satisfying even torque throughout.
14) Remove fill plug and pump in 3 quarts of fluid. Start the engine for a minute or so and turn it off. Pump in approximately what was removed and at least a pint to quart more. Loosely install fill plug.

TO BE CONTINUED - Gotta Get other stuff DONE! Pictures and details coming....


*note1 - Everyone will have an opinion about this. Everything has a film of lubricant on it. 3 seconds of no load runtime isn't going kill it.
*note2 - This truck is west coast rig. No salt. I find zero risk with regards to breaking pan bolts. That and I used to build transmissions. I've seen a thing or two.
*note3 - I bout all the parts a year ago and sadly am just now getting around to this. I may look up all the part numbers later. Life won over Tundra maintenance.
*note4 - The old fluid when poured through the light had a trace of red hue but was mostly black but no smell of being burned so Good news, no burned clutches! That coupled with no ferrous metal on magnets was a win. I'll open the filter later.

Tags #A760H Tundra Transmission Fluid Change DIY, #Transmission Maintenance

 

Taking another spot for good measures....
TO BE CONTINUED - Gotta Get other stuff DONE! Pictures and details coming....