Please help ‐ Door Issue

I just replaced the driverside lock and actuator assembly with a new OEM part. The wires separated from the back of the plug, that seats in the actuator housing, during removal. I made a guess of how the wires should be stabbed and now the key fobs do not work. I need to know the 4 wire color positions (1-4) that run into the back of the plug that engages the driver side power lock actuator assembly on a 2001 toyota tundra SR5, 8 cylinder.

Thank you in advance.

 

Here's the EWD for your truck: https://www.tundras.com/attachments/2001-tundra-ewd429u-pdf.543918/

 

https://www.tundras.com/attachments/door-lock-pdf.279647/

 

Thank you very much for the wiring diagram. I am looking forward to getting home Monday and giving it a go. The security system has been going crazy so I am hoping I landed the wires incorrectly and this will address the issue. I will provide an update. Again I really appreciate this forum and the help provided.

 

You sure you didn’t blow a fuse while rewiring it? May be that simple….

 

I wanted to say thank you again for the electrical schematic for the door lock. When replacing the driver door lock I accidently pulled the wires from the female connector that drives the driver door lock. I did not know the correct orientation of the 4 leads, thus the security system went crazy. I did indeed blow a fuse on the security system. I checked all the fuse blocks but could not find any issues. I finally found a single 20 amp fuse where the security box is located, behind the lower dash below the steering wheel. Once I removed the lower dash I found a single wire 20 amp fuse had failed. All is good now with the security system! I understand the trucks, when new, we're sent from the factory to a 3rd party to install the security systems before making it to retail. Not at all what I expected. Thanks again for the drawings and suggestion that I may have a fuse issue.

 

Actually, worse than that! Dealers often had on-site techs install aftermarket alarm systems, KARR and SECURIKEY+ are the big ones you'll find. And when they did it, some techs really mangled the shit out of the wires in the process. Those systems, as we've seen here, start to fail or get quirkly around tthe 15-20 year mark. I'd probably advice to have a competent shop that deals in DEI products (Clifford, Avital, Viper, Python, etc.) replace that alarm with something newer. You'll get at least another 10-20 years out of their stuff.

I personally prefer Clifford, but I'm biased after working at a shop that installed Clifford and Avital. DEI has snatched up a lot of automotive add-on companies through the 90s/00s, so they've got a solid lock on the market and most of their products are above-average quality. They have an easy-to-use installer finder, but I'd stick with their "preferred dealer" marked entries to install, or at minimum, Google and Yelp review search a dealer before handing your vehicle over.

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