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PO 338 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit High Input

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by HanSolo759, Jan 19, 2024.

  1. Jan 19, 2024 at 1:07 PM
    #1
    HanSolo759

    HanSolo759 [OP] New Member

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    K&N intake
    Hey everyone.

    I am attempting to find a wire diagram that I can use to trace and test the Crank Sensor wires.

    I know where the wires connect to the ECM, I am hoping to find a place to splice/repair in the engine compartment.

    2007 Toyota Tundra 4x4 A/T 5.7, Limited Crew Cab.
     
  2. Jan 20, 2024 at 5:16 PM
    #2
    HanSolo759

    HanSolo759 [OP] New Member

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    K&N intake
    Turns out my Battery had a dead cell. I change nothing but the battery, day 1 test drive no check engine light
     
    thearborbarber likes this.
  3. Jan 21, 2024 at 6:39 PM
    #3
    HanSolo759

    HanSolo759 [OP] New Member

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    K&N intake
    The Crank Position Sensor code has not come back on since the new battery, but now I have new codes:
    1. * P2441 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Closed Bank 1
    2. * P2443 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Closed Bank 2
    3. P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
     
  4. Jan 22, 2024 at 7:58 AM
    #4
    HanSolo759

    HanSolo759 [OP] New Member

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    K&N intake
    Today, with no change from yesterday:

    1. * P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
    2. * P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
    3. P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
    4. P2441 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Closed Bank 1

    Taking it in to have the motor compression tested and timing checked. I suspect the motor.
     
  5. Jan 28, 2024 at 7:15 AM
    #5
    Jeff_5_7

    Jeff_5_7 New Member

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    Houston Tx Area
    Vehicle:
    2007 RCSB 2014+ TRD Pro Conversion 5.7 4x4
    Full 2014+ Conversion Regular Cab Short Bed 4X4 2019 TRD Pro Grill, 2014+ Front End Swap 2014+ Interior/Dash Swap with TRD Pro Leather Seats, 2014+ Bed Swap with TRD Pro Stamping SOS 2/4 Drop Kit
    Might need the secondary air bypass kit… look into it.

    As far as crank position sensor (the reason I posting) it seems 90% of the time this code is thrown it’s a false alarm. Several guys have removed the OEM crank position sensor and replaced it with a cheap one from a chain auto parts store. DO NOT do this, it just causes more problems.

    Generally the crank position sensor is fine, if you do decide to replace it go to Toyota and pay the money for the OEM one. It will save you so many headaches.
     
  6. Jan 28, 2024 at 9:24 AM
    #6
    HanSolo759

    HanSolo759 [OP] New Member

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    K&N intake
    Jeff,

    Thansk for the ideas!

    I took the truck to a mechanic, after compression testing and evaluation of the motor, he recommended doing the timing chain.

    I'll update what happens after that, I may have to get an oem crank sensor.
     
  7. Feb 12, 2024 at 1:39 PM
    #7
    HanSolo759

    HanSolo759 [OP] New Member

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    K&N intake
    Jeff,

    I took the truck into a mechanic. I had the timing chain, tensioner and guides replaced, the assumption being that loose timing was to blame for the random miss. Also replaced the thermostat, housing and gasket and radiator along with Fuel Pump (found red wire was disconnected and pump electrical connector was damaged). The truck had a code for the fuel pump and would not turn off tested at (65PSI).

    While the air intake was off, the Air Injector Solenoid and Pump system was checked and nothing found needing replacement or work. Got the truck back and 1st time I started it had a bad misfire. Check engine was flashing. We checked the code real time and found No Code. We could see Cyl # 2 & 5 were misfiring. Turned off the truck and re-started this time no heavy misfire or flashing check engine. I took if for a drive and a day later the check engine light is back on. I'll have to take it back to find out what or why?
     

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