Possible reasons why transmission not engaging - at all??

Hi all,
Looking for potential causes why my transmission may not be engaging at all....any gears. I bought the truck wrecked. Ran into issues, but finally got the engine running. I had to replace brake lines due to the thief that stole the catalytic converters cut the brake lines too.
Anyway. I assumed that the engine and transmission were good, because I bought it shortly after it was involved in a front end accident. It had to be working when it was wrecked.
But, just wondering if it could be an 'electronics' issue since the fuse box was hit too. I've checked all the fuses and all the other electronics seem to be working...but I'm really hoping its something simple or I'm going to have to basically scrap the project(and truck) I'm already upside down in it after buying all the parts to repair the body.
Please help.
Thanks.....George

 

I know this is a stupid question, but is the driveshaft intact and connected?

 

No stupid questions here.....I appreciate ANY input. All the mechanicals "look good"/normal.

 

When you got it, was there damage to the transmission cooler (I'm assuming it is an automatic, correct me if I'm wrong)?
Any transmission fluid visible that would indicate a leak that the PO may have tried to drive with? If so, did you replace/repair the trans cooler and refill the transmission with the proper amount and type of fluid?

 

Also, have you verified that the shifter cable/rod is still connected to the transmission? If it is not connected, you will get the selector to move but the trans will stay in park/whatever position it was in when disconnected.

 

Windsor.....
The truck IS an automatic....the truck is not equipped with transmission cooler/towing package. I have NOT physically checked the shifter cable/rod...but when I put it in neutral with the engine off, I am able to manually push the truck, so I think that would confirm that it is going into neutral?!? (correct me if I'm wrong). when I inspected the transmission pan, there is no fluid visible around the gasket, but I will say that the pan itself seems a 'little wet'. I've researched how to check the transmission fluid, but because of the front end damage, I currently don't have the radiator in the truck. I am only running the engine for a VERY short time so as not to overheat. the instructions for checking the trans fluid have you heating it to a specific temperature, which I can't because of the missing radiator.

 

It is a floor shift or column shift? Do you get an indication for the gear selected? PRND Have you tried both D and S modes?

 

it is a floor shift type. and I DO get the indication on the dash for whatever gear I select. and yes I did try the D and S modes. Nothing in any selection.

 

Does anyone have a schematic of the wiring for the transmission? or know where the wires leading to the transmission are located??? Maybe I'll get a little lucky and the person that stole the Catalytic converters (and cut the brake lines) also cut a wire to the tranny. That's my only hope for not losing every dollar I've invested in this truck so far.

 

I would overfill the trans and then open the level port and drain the excess, screw the special process (for the time being) and at least confirm you have plenty of fluid in there.

 

Thanks for the suggestion....I might try to do exactly as you suggest. Besides something with the wiring, that's about my only hope. I was kind of hoping that there was some kind of "reset" since I did have to replace airbags.....didn't know if there was some kind of 'safety reset'.....but that's me just hoping for an"easy fix"......if there isn't, I'm screwed and I guess I need to start 'cutting my losses' and will probably have to scrap the truck.......I'm already upside down money-wise which I was OK with....but if I have to replace the transmission......that's more than I'm ok with......thanks!!!

 

This website appears to have wiring pin outs for $15, good luck!: https://portal-diagnostov.com/en/20...a-tundra-limited-2013-system-wiring-diagrams/

 

Thanks snivilous! I definitely need some luck!!

 

Why not jack up the rear and see if the transmission is engaging in any way? With the rear axle in the air it takes all the load off the driveline essentially.

Block the front wheels, put it and gear. Does the driveshaft move? Are the rear wheels trying to turn?
With it off and in neutral can you spin the rear tires by hand and see the drive shaft moving? Is the rear diff really just shot or is it an actual shift issue with the transmission?

Also you would be surprised how many cars get hit and totaled while parked? What if it was at a mechanic shop for a bad transmission and some idiot ran off the road and hit it then it got totaled. I have seen this kind of stuff happen before. Especially as small shops that have to park cars out front or on the side of the building.

 

Jeff,
Thanks for the suggestions....I will try that (I'm game to try anything at this point)....I'm pretty sure it was wrecked while moving though....I bought it from the local police impound auction and I looked up the previous owner and he was a "meth-head" with a record, so I think he was probably running from the po-po when it got wrecked and then impounded..

 

There is a wiring diagram thread:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/ultimate-wiring-diagrams-collection.81448/

I am leaning towards low on fluid. I think I would put two quarts in it and see if it makes a difference.

I guess there are no codes?

 

Thanks a bunch huntertn! I have not had a chance to plug into ODBii yet for codes....but plan on doing that too. I appreciate the link and input...I will definitely try adding fluid too and seeing if it gets me any 'movement'....been raining here since I found the issue and since I can't "move the truck" into the garage....most is going to have to wait until it stops raining. Thanks again!!

 

Anyone know what brand/type of fluid that I need??

 

It takes Toyota WS transmission fluid. Some people run other non-Toyota stuff (Amsoil, Valvoline). Given your situation, I would go to Walmart and buy some Valvoline MaxLife MultiVehicle and use that.

 

Sounds like a plan....thanks again for your response and information. I'll report back once I get a break in the weather to crawl under and get it done.

 

Even if you don't have standalone trans cooler do transmissions lines still run through the bottom of the regular radiator to warm/cool the fluid. If the rad was damaged in the accident it could have blown that out and pumped a bunch of fluid out of those lines.
Not sure if the rad is setup like that on a second gen but just throwing out ideas.

 

Long shot, any chance the torque converter is not bolted in? Assuming transmission was pulled for inspection, and not completely put back together... AKA weight reduction bro....

 

I’ll play - like Comcast service. Is the engine started?

Seriously, you may want to go to the Ask the Mechanic thread.

 

The engine is running when I attempt to put transmission in gear, if that is what you mean. Ok...rookie question: "ask a mechanic thread" ... I did a search and didn't find that

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/ask-the-toyota-mechanic.2404/

 

Thank you!

 

@Ruggybuggy is a former Toyota mechanic now retired who is absolutely fantastic answering questions - reason why this Forum is great!

 

Ok guys....a 'report back'....I crawled around on the soaking wet driveway (that was fun)......and I was planning on just adding some fluid to see if that would make a difference....well, I rapped on the pan and it 'sounded empty'....so I pulled the drain plug and sure enough...ZERO transmission fluid came out. Soooo....now I need to find out where it went and PRAYING that my transmission is now not ruined because of ME! (shifting it when empty). So...are there any schematics of the transmission lines anywhere? I do not have a transmission cooler.....I bought a new(used) condenser and found out that I bought the wrong one because the truck I got it off of DID route the transmission fluid through the cooler up front. Mine does not (different condenser). There were no lines going to the radiator.... is this "puck" that you are referring to 07DCLimited....is that the 'puck' on the side of the transmission with 2 lines going up the passenger side of the engine??? if so, where do those lines end up? I know I'm sounding pretty stupid here....I just wanted a Tundra so bad that I went about it the wrong way since it was going to be tough to afford.....now that's turning out that is going to cost me MORE and have a 'repaired Tundra'

 

I guess it is good you have a possible idea about why it's not going into gear. From the profile picture of your truck, it does not look like it ended up upside down or in some orientation that would cause the fluid to run out the vent during the accident. But you never know I guess. I don't know where it came from but it could be that the salvage place may have started to drain the fluids out of it if they thought it was going to the crusher. You just never know sometimes.

The lines from the puck on the passengers side run up to the passengers side valve cover. These are engine coolant lines. They change from rubber to metal. The two metal lines run along the lower edge of the passenger valve cover and then when they get to the front of the engine they turn back towards the drivers side. They do not go to the radiator but connect to various places on the engine. At least that is the way it is on my 2008.

There are good diagrams in the Factory Service information. Or, you can get a pretty good idea of what components should be there by looking at the Toyota parts website. They have decent illustrations. Be sure to click on the "view more images" button.
https://parts.toyota.com/

 

Thanks huntertn!!.....this truck never made it to a salvage yard. When it was wrecked, it was abandoned and/or just straight-up impounded by the police (after it sat at the accident site (that is where/when I believe the cats were stolen)....so it sat in impound until it met their criteria for auctioning (no one with authority claimed it and the lien-holder forfeit it) but your description of the lines help. I just need to figure out where it lost the fluid from and 'fix that' and then refill and try it again....at least I hope. I had some other things going tonight and didn't get a chance to work on it any more....so hopefully tomorrow, I can trace those lines and see how the fluid "escaped" and why. I looked at some of the diagrams as you indicated and they help, but don't give me the dummy-down pics I need. I'll keep researching. I appreciate your help!!