POWER STOP Z36 TRUCK AND TOW BRAKE KIT/THOUGHTS?

Thoughts?

 

Stoptech cryo. slotted rotors and EBC yellow stuff pads will be going on my truck when I get around to it. Thanks for the reminder to buy that stuff before the prices rise more!

 

Power Stop rotors warp easily seems to be the consensus. Some have had good luck with them but not many.

Centric (Stoptech) cryo rotors and EBC yellow or Akebono pads would be my choice.

 

I'm going OE when I do mine. I can't believe guys spend $750 for a brake job.

 

Wait until you are driving down a quiet divided 4 lane road at night in a rainstorm and roll up on a train at a crossing where the lights aren't functioning.

 

Stoptech Sport cryo treated, slotted only rotors.

 

I have the Power Stop Z36 on my Tundra. They are just OK, meh..., nothing impressive. Am just waiting for the pads to go down and I will swap everything out for something else. The rotors...grrr...started to give me a slight shimmy on braking 14-18 months after installation.

 

Stoptech cryo and ebc yellow pads. Best brakes I’ve had. Powerstop shook at around 10k miles. When I removed them, they were wavy. There are threads and pics on here about them.

 

So, I’m all for quality brake parts, but this post seems odd. Let me explain why I say that.

I have all factory brakes on my truck, and oversized tires. If I’m rolling down the highway, regardless of lane count, and need to hammer the brakes for a panic stop, it will provide enough brake force that the ABS will take over. That is due to traction limits on the road surface. We have pretty decent road surfaces here in my area, and my tires have excellent tread. That said, I don’t believe that bigger brakes would provide any better stopping performance than OEM in a panic stop situation like referenced in the quoted post.
Now, if we’re talking about aggressive driving where you’re really eating up the brakes, then yes. I would agree that higher performance brake parts are of value. They’ll dissipate the heat faster and retain their performance longer than OEM because they can stay consistent longer.
That’s it, unless you have tires that are soooo grippy that the factory brakes can’t overpower the traction on the road, or you’re racing.

 

Go OEM…Ive done both and the OEM brakes are great. Don’t turn rotors, just replace them with the pads.

 

I would go OEM personally. I did EBC slotted rotors with green stuff pads on my prior Tacoma and didn’t notice much difference. I also did EBC rotors with yellow stuff pads on my Q5 and they squealed worse than any brakes I have ever had (followed the break in procedures to the letter). Ended up removing them and going with OEM.

 

I agree with the ABS will take over, but it will take over sooner when the coefficient of friction is increased and all other factors remain constant, this results in a faster stop. Maybe not much, but when time really matters...

 

What are you guys paying for the rotors? Around 180 a corner is what I'm seeing on tirerack.

 

I can’t find the email from my order, but I also got them from tire rack and that sounds about right. I got the ebc pads from Amazon.

 

Put them on the Tundra a few weeks ago and rotors warped terribly on break in. Emailed powerstop and they said sorry to hear but we dont replace thru 3rd party vendor. I bought the kit thru Summit Racing not some dam Amazon ware house ! Havent had time to reach out to Summit as wife and I both ended up with covid. My only worry is I put the factory rotors back on and kept the new pads on. Summit may say the kit is incomplete ??

 

175 Auto accessories garage free shipping. Ships in about 1 month.

 

This is all I've done and I'm at 69000 miles.

 

I purchased a set of Powerstep Z36 rotors & pads but am waiting on the weather to warm up a little to install them. Per my usual procedure, I am going to make sure I minimize the lateral rotor runout by cleaning the wheel hub mating surfaces very well, mounting rotors, indexing each rotor from lug to lug, measuring the runout at each position and installing at the position that provides the minimum runout. Although the Powerstep generic install guide says max runout of 0.003" - 0.005", it does point you to the manufacturers spec. The Toyota spec is 0.002" front and 0.008" rear (measured 0.4" from the outer edge) which will be my absolute max but will be looking for better. Then I mark the rotor position and make sure I put them back in the same position if I have to remove them in the future. Lack of attention to detail at this stage causes the majority of "warping" complaints - most DIYers and lots of techs just throw them on and trust to luck.

 

All that is good and all, however over time, as wheel bearing wear occurs runout will vary anyway. The perfect world is sometimes well, "imperfect" and not much can change that.

 

I have a lot of high mileage vehicles in the "fleet" (>200,000 miles) and have not seen normal bearing wear cause unacceptably high rotor runout. If you are seeing that, perhaps due to damage or excessive wear from off-roading,etc, installing more expensive rotors is not going to fix it. If you have excessive runout, you will get "warping" which, by the way is a misnomer. Rotors in almost all cases do not warp. What occurs is called rotor thickness variation. Putting new rotors on with excessive runout is like putting on new tires with a bad wheel alignment.

 

I’m one of the DIYers that just threw them on. I did clean everything really good when I did, but I didn’t measure anything. The powerstops had waves in them because they were so worn out in less than 15k miles. I did the same with my current stoptech cryo rotors and no issues or shaking at about the same mileage. I also had powerstops on my 2010 and wasn’t happy, but went ahead and tried them again in my 2018 due to price. I always had a soft pedal with them. I also put powerstop pads on my wife’s car during that time and she had a soft pedal too. Yes, I know how to properly bleed brakes. If they take so much work to get them to work properly, are they worth it?

 

That was quick!!! Nice discount too!

 

Best place to purchase stoptech cryo slotted? Seems they are sold out everywhere. Thanks!

 

Had 2 sets on 2 cars wear prematurely, even after following their break in procedure. I won't use them again.

 

What are you considering prematurely? I get that we want these super high dollar brakes to last like OEM, but I can see the argument that we are trading performance for longevity.

Just curious. How many miles did you get compared to OEM with the same use?

 

My oem brakes lasted 65k miles

Then i did the stop tech, performed well but lasted 25k miles

I was short on time so i got some autozone gold. Those are on 30k miles right now and i think i could go another 10k.

Next time ill do OEM

 

Had set all around on a 2004 Tahoe the rears wore to the metal and one seized at about 28K, the other set was on a 2004 Grand Cherokee, one of the fronts wore to the metal as well and seized in about 6 months. Both cases were just one pad out of 8. Both had the slotted and grooved rotors. The issue seemed like a material defect as the other pads were fine. New calipers on both vehicles. I fixed the Tahoe myself the calipers were fine. One rotor on the Tahoe turned blue. That said, I have a full set on my Wrangler and they have been fine, they were the first ones I installed several years ago.

 

I installed z36 extreme stoptechs - couldn't be better - replaced all fluid while I was at it - superb stopping performance and costs less than $100 for all 4 wheels.