PowerBass OEM direct-fit speaker replacements for 1st gen trucks

Just tossing this out there since Crutchfield's fitment info seems to think some of this stuff won't fit.

PB is a company that makes quality, budget-friendly drivers, in both 4ohm and in 2ohm for the JBL OEM radio users out there, that are direct-bolt-ins and may offer a plug and play experience using factory connectors. I'd been eyeballing them before, and I like they offer a 7" driver that'll supposedly fit (although they don't list it) in our front/rear openings. I haven't tested that theory.

Anyway, their fitment guide is here: https://powerbassusa.com/us/en/fitment-guide/

And here's their chart for 1st Gen Tundras at the time of this post, in the event anyone wants to dabble, it's under $250 to get full speaker replacements for the 6-speaker setup in the AC trucks:

 

Link to the components atop the 2nd column: https://powerbassusa.com/us/en/prod...Replacement-Component-Speaker-System-Toyota /

Link to the coaxial driver atop the 1st column: https://powerbassusa.com/us/en/prod...2-TY-Coaxial-OEM-Replacement-Speaker-Toyota /

The coaxial would go in the rear AC door, or could fit in the front for all years. The components system is for front door, and they note the tweeter may require adapting to mount on the OEM bracket.

 

I bought the woofers only for the front and they are great!

 

I tried talking someone into trying them out and to let us know here - https://www.tundras.com/threads/who-has-subwoofers.46222/#post-1222835
But I had no takers...

Still curious how they play out

 

Did you go with the 7", the 6¾", or the 6½"? Do you happen to still have the part number you used?

And was it in the Sequoia, DC, or AC?

 

Hey @shifty` you always say that using the factory amp with aftermarket head is sub-par... I never did understand if it is because the amp is low quality, or for some other hardware compatibility reason. Would the speakers you are talking about be a candidate to avoid a amp bypass while replacing the speakers and head unit for some reason?

Anyways, I'm sure I've missed a post where you clearly laid out your reasons for not using the Amp!

 

I don't recommend using the OEM amp/promote using the amp bypass harness because integrated amplifier technology has improved quite a bit in the last two decades. They can pack just as much, often more power into the tiny little head units on the market today than they could in the not-so-small OEM amps, with cleaner production.

With these speakers in particular, I'd probably opt for amp bypass also, and put it up to my aftermarket head unit to drive them. Speaker tech, like integrated amplifier tech, has gotten markedly better in 20 years too, so this could be a great upgrade option for those who do want to stick with OEM but need to replace the drivers, either because their surrounds are shot, or the speakers are blown.

That said, for those who wanted a more no-brainer plug-and-play experience, where your speakers already had the correct pigtail, you just swap them out, but are better suited to function with the OEM head unit and amp, these are reputable and actually pretty damn good quality.

 

I would love to get a small sub somewhere. My tinny-azz Boss-driven sound is trash. Wish my OEM HU hadn’t taken a crap on me.

 

Perfect, thanks for the clarity.

I've always bought pigtails to fit on whatever speakers, so it's never really seemed like a big deal to go aftermarket. Considering my goal is a SON AX6000 I may still target some other speakers, esp since my OEM head unit is already gone!

 

I will say this, and I know it from firsthand experience helping others with their audio: If you’re not into car audio and havent really ever been more of a “listener/admirer”, this stuff can get intimidating.

Take my install for example. I swapped out my front OEM door components for aftermarket, JBL Club components. In that process I had to do a hell of a lot more than unplug/replug speakers:

• Find a suitable place to mount the crossover, then install it onto the door
• Remove the factory Y-splitter that forks out to the tweeter and mid
• Adapt the nub leftover and feed the line to the crossover
• Do two new separate runs to the tweeter and mid, crimp on new connectors
• Modify the OEM baffle to remove the factory connector, pry it out of the baffle wall.
• Remove the OEM midrange speaker; then cut and modify JBL’s adapter to adapt the 6.6” speaker to their near-7” hole, which involved rotating about 10 different ways to find the best orientation, then trim all the unnecessary excess bits off, then wire in the JBL speaker back to the crossover and secure its wire
• Unmount the tweeter and its bracket, then find a way to adapt the JBL tweeter to safely use the OEM bracket using one of the three different adapters JBL provided, only one of which worked. Then wire that up back to the crossover and secure it’s wire.

That’s a lot. I know and have personally helped several people do stuff like this over the internet and a lot find it intimidating, some have never crimped more than a few wires in their lives, if any. Many couldn’t tell you how a crossover works.

If you give some folks an option of “Remove 3 screws. Unplug old midrange speaker. Screw in new one, reattach plug, repeat with tweeter, only it’s 2 screws”, versus all the shit I just typed, a LOT of people want what’s in this paragraph, not what’s in the bulleted list above. Hell, **I** want what’s in this paragraph more myself, if the driver quality is good! Plug and plug upgrades, are GREAT!

My backdoors were easier, JBL Club coaxials. Still had to trim adapter rings and modify (remove) the OEM plug off the OEM housing/baffle to route my wires into the new speaker and secure the wire, but no crossovers, aftermarket speaker wire, etc to piss around with.

We need more quality plug and play but I don’t see it happening with our trucks. Too old at this point. But we are seeing a lot of vendors offering bolt-in OEM++ upgrades which is nice.

 

Haha ok ya. The JBL system in these trucks might be more complex than I am used to. Just reading your bullets made me tired. Not that I couldn't do that stuff I just don't think I want to any time soon. Guess I'll figure out what's rattling in my driver's door and make a plan.

 

I think it was the 7, but I can't find my order anymore. This was on the sequoia, but they are also a perfect fit for the DC. On the DC, I removed the factory amp and speakers and installed memphis 6.5 components.

Oddly enough on the AC, it's the non JBL system and I haven't touched the speakers, just a head unit and sub.

 

Interesting. Should I be the guinea pig in these speakers for the double cab JBL system? I still have the factory head unit and amp. I already did the repair on the front speakers and it sounds amazing. But the rear speakers are crackling a bit so I just need to replace the rears.

 

If I read PB's site correctly, they have 2ohm drivers for the 1st gen w/JBL.

I want to say the 7" mentioned above may be one of them and while it looks like a woofer/isn't coaxial, it's supposedly a full range speaker.

 

I think what the chart is saying, this is what I need...

OE652-TY

 

Crutchfield says the following three will fit the 2006 DC with JBL system (I plugged your truck specs in and filtered on PB's brand). They're all 2ohm speakers engineered to be direct swaps for the JBL 2ohm drivers.

If it were me, what would I do? I'm not fully sure. Those OE-700s would probably sound awesome in the front doors, but I don't remember The DC layout... For some reason I thought you had a tweeter in the sail panel (interior triangle where mirror is), and two speakers in the door at knee level? If it's a coaxial in the rear door, and 3 components in each door, I'd probably drop the OE-652s in the rear, and the 7's in front, maybe the OE-6C components to fill in the rest? Not sure. Would need to see inside the door and make some choices, plus look into the wiring of y'alls doors with the DC + JBL setup, since it's so different than the AC/RC trucks..

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Yeah it definitely makes sense to open everything up and take a look first. But since my front sounds really good, yep, even the tweeters up there, I'm just going to be replacing the rear speakers that are giving me crackling noises. OE-652s might be the ones.

Edit: actually those ones are 4 ohms.

 

Is it single speaker in the rear? Or components?

 

yep just one back there.

 

I’d probably run with the OE-652, middle speaker in my image above. Coaxial for mids and high, and 2ohm driver. Would give reasonable high/mid fill in back. If it were me I’d pop the door panel off and pop out the speaker to confirm it’s stamped with the 2ohm symbol on the rear, or ohm out the speaker lead to confirm w/o popping the door panel (at the amp, after checking wire colors to test in the EWD) but …