1. Welcome to Tundras.com!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tundra discussion topics
    • Transfer over your build thread from a different forum to this one
    • Communicate privately with other Tundra owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Preventively replacing my starter and alternator?

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by myt1, Aug 7, 2020.

  1. Aug 7, 2020 at 5:23 AM
    #1
    myt1

    myt1 [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2018
    Member:
    #13873
    Messages:
    373
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Richard
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Vehicle:
    2010 Tundra DC TRD SR5 Desert Sand Mica
    OME Lift, 275/70R 18
    My 2010 Tundra with 168,000 miles has been the most trouble free vehicle I have ever owned. It is my everyday driver and over the years I have taken it to some pretty remote locations.

    I friggin' love my truck and I want to get another 10 years out of it, and I also want to continue using it on remote camping a fishing trips.

    Along those lines, I'm wondering if I should preventively start replacing parts that could leave me dead in the water if they were to fail; particularly if they were to fail in the remote backcountry.

    I was wondering if I should replace my 10 year old starter and alternator?

    I was also wondering, if I do replace the alternator, should I replace it with a more powerful unit like the Mechman in the link below.

    I just installed a Northstar battery and it is my understanding a more powerful alternator will charge it more completely (there are other ways to do this with changing fuses as well), and possibly a dual battery and a refrigerator might be in my future.

    I'm big into prevention so I'm thinking this might be a prudent thing to do.

    Thanks for your help.

    https://www.mechman.com/alternators...010-2012/s-series-240-amp-alt-for-toyota-5-7/
     
  2. Aug 7, 2020 at 5:33 AM
    #2
    Rex Kramer

    Rex Kramer Vinyl Spinner

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2017
    Member:
    #7181
    Messages:
    6,612
    Gender:
    Male
    Georgia
    Vehicle:
    2002 4.7L RCLB 4X4 2007 5.7L RCSB 4X2
    I don't know that I would replace anything that is not failing or has failed, but buying replacement parts cheap now so you have them on hand later is not a bad idea.

    That alternator requires a slightly shorter drive belt, so you need to have one of those handy.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2020
    Black Wolf likes this.
  3. Aug 7, 2020 at 7:46 AM
    #3
    Zebruaj

    Zebruaj New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2019
    Member:
    #37139
    Messages:
    673
    Gender:
    Male
    MN
    Vehicle:
    08 CM SR5
    Because they both require a tad bit of work (specially the starter), I would only put on OEM parts if you want to jump the gun. Most aftermarket rebuilds are junk and wont last too long.

    Pay once, cry once. Or wait til it craps out to replace. There is no magic mileage/date marker.
     
    Rocko9999, bubbya and Black Wolf like this.
  4. Aug 7, 2020 at 7:56 AM
    #4
    Trident

    Trident New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2019
    Member:
    #32995
    Messages:
    451
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2007 Tundra DC 4X4
    I might buy a starter, might.....but I dang sure wouldn't do that replacement unless I absolutely had to.
     
    bubbya, Sundown5oh and NewImprovedRon like this.
  5. Aug 7, 2020 at 8:01 AM
    #5
    Trooper2

    Trooper2 Premium Lone Star Member / SSEM #13

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2018
    Member:
    #12738
    Messages:
    6,774
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    JR
    Houston, TX (Suburban South)
    Vehicle:
    2019 Tundra 5.7L Crewmax TSS 2WD
    Having concerns more for the starter,; cost of repair and not diy for many. I have thought about calling around for best pricing to know where to have towed if an when the time comes.

    That said, if you have the means to get them changed I would consider with oem. New oem may not be same quality of original.

    Maybe call a dealership or two and ask their opinion about replacing.

    Good luck!
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2020
  6. Aug 7, 2020 at 9:05 AM
    #6
    bleach

    bleach MEME Fiend

    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2020
    Member:
    #41465
    Messages:
    1,406
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    DJ
    Battle Ground, WA
    Vehicle:
    1991 White Xtra-cab SR5 4X4 V6 5 speed 148K
    I have AAA so if anything happens they can tow my ass home. I'm not sure if they can help if you're stuck in the woods somewhere.
     
    Mariana likes this.
  7. Aug 7, 2020 at 12:56 PM
    #7
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2019
    Member:
    #26430
    Messages:
    3,007
    Gender:
    Male
    Outside of Weird, TX
    Vehicle:
    2017 MGM DC TSS 4.6L
    TRD Pro grille, 2018 LED Headlights, Undercover Flex bed cover, Neoprene seat covers, Bed/tailgate mats, Power tailgate lock, auto headlights, illuminated key switch
    Unless you're camping on the moon with no cell service, preemptive replacement of parts to insure reliability of an old vehicle is a bad idea imo. Attempting to replace parts just before they wear out will be an ineffective waste of money, because something else you didn't think of will fail and leave you marooned.

    To execute this kind of preventative maintenance program, you would need to be VERY familiar with the approximate service life of ALL critical components. Even individuals in the business do not have the kind of knowledge and experience to predict failure of any given component on any given model Toyota. If your life will depend on your vehicle's reliability, you should consider getting a newer vehicle with fewer miles/years on it. If you're young enough to put up with a little inconvenience, drive it until it breaks.
     
  8. Aug 7, 2020 at 1:56 PM
    #8
    sensei

    sensei master and teacher of nothing

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2017
    Member:
    #11849
    Messages:
    650
    Gender:
    Male
    trd boosted, trd bbk, fox stage 4, corsa, amp, jl/kenwood
    if you have the money, plan on keeping the truck for yrs more and it helps your piece of mind, then there's nothing wrong with preemptive replacements imo. i do it for some things and it helps me worry less and i'm sure it has saved me from some headache at an inopportune time. who wants to deal with a starter or alternator issue when you're camping, boating, vacationing, etc. def not me.

    for these two parts, i'd stay with oem.
     
    Black Wolf and myt1[OP] like this.
  9. Aug 7, 2020 at 7:48 PM
    #9
    Rph74

    Rph74 New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2019
    Member:
    #35388
    Messages:
    203
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Chris
    Springfield,MO
    Vehicle:
    2007 Tundra Crewmax Limited Silver/Redrock
    I’ve thought about doing this as well for peace of mind. I thought I was the only crazy one lol.
     
    bubbya and myt1[OP] like this.
  10. Aug 7, 2020 at 8:41 PM
    #10
    landphil

    landphil Fish are food, not friends!

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2016
    Member:
    #4814
    Messages:
    4,459
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Phil
    BC, Canada
    Vehicle:
    ‘08 TRD doublecab
    My ‘01 Corolla commuter has 416,500 km on the original starter, I swapped in a low-mile used OE Denso alternator at 390,000 just ‘cause I found a good deal on one at Pick’n’pull. I bought the fuel pump from that car too, tossed it in with my spare tire. But I’m still running on the original.

    Starters usually give a bit of a warning sign - clicks with no cranks, etc, and can most often be smacked to get another start or two out of them. If an alternator goes, and you have a good battery, you should have about an hour of run time running on bare necessities.

    I’d say let’er’buck. The parts you have are proven good. New stuff can fail too.
     
    myt1[OP] and JohnLakeman like this.
  11. Aug 7, 2020 at 8:55 PM
    #11
    jwatt

    jwatt I heart men

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2020
    Member:
    #40985
    Messages:
    1,301
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jack
    Oregon
    Vehicle:
    Salsa Red 2007 Tundra DC @91k.
    7" BDS Coilover Suspension Lift/BDS UCAs/XB LED Headlights/Nitto trail Grappler tires on Black Rhyno Armory wheels
    I just got my new 270 amp alternator from DC Engineering for my audio build. Mechman alts reduce the pully size which is why I went with DC.
    [​IMG]
    From the Mechman link OP posted:

    S Series
    Installation Notes:

    This unit comes equipped with a smaller 1.75 inch diamter alternator pulley, and will require a slightly shorter drive belt for proper belt tension.
     
  12. Aug 7, 2020 at 9:10 PM
    #12
    Dalandshark

    Dalandshark Infected with 5G

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2020
    Member:
    #43002
    Messages:
    756
    Gender:
    Male
    Northwest
    Vehicle:
    2007 Tundra SR5 5.7 Longbed
    Eibach Level LIft
    If the money is burning a hole in your pocket and it gives you peace of mind, why not? Like others said, use OEM for the Starter.
     
  13. Aug 8, 2020 at 12:07 AM
    #13
    jwatt

    jwatt I heart men

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2020
    Member:
    #40985
    Messages:
    1,301
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jack
    Oregon
    Vehicle:
    Salsa Red 2007 Tundra DC @91k.
    7" BDS Coilover Suspension Lift/BDS UCAs/XB LED Headlights/Nitto trail Grappler tires on Black Rhyno Armory wheels
    I think if you called them ahead of time, and let them know what you were up to, they may be able to accomodate you. Premium AAA is costly, but as long as you arn t too deep in the woods, they may be able to help.
    [​IMG]
     
  14. Aug 8, 2020 at 5:42 AM
    #14
    Jeffro22

    Jeffro22 New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2019
    Member:
    #32294
    Messages:
    314
    Vehicle:
    2013 platinum crewmax 4x4
    I picked up a oem started last year and keep under my rear seat as a spare. Just wanted to have a oem on hand in case it failed on me and parts weren’t immediately available

    I have 250k on my tundra and haven’t had any issues with starter or alternator
     
    bubbya and myt1[OP] like this.
  15. Aug 8, 2020 at 9:11 AM
    #15
    bleach

    bleach MEME Fiend

    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2020
    Member:
    #41465
    Messages:
    1,406
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    DJ
    Battle Ground, WA
    Vehicle:
    1991 White Xtra-cab SR5 4X4 V6 5 speed 148K
    It's a gamble to buy any of these parts unless you buy them from a dealer. I've heard too many stories of "rebuilt" electrical parts being dead out of the box.
    That would really suck on a 4.7 if you replaced the starter and the "new" one was bad.
     
  16. Aug 8, 2020 at 9:25 AM
    #16
    Half Assed

    Half Assed me ne frego

    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2020
    Member:
    #48947
    Messages:
    930
    Heartland Florida
    Vehicle:
    10 crewmax
    I'd rather have the 10 year old OE starter or alternator that are still working than put aftermarket ones on it. I would however, buy them and keep in the garage for when you need them.

    Just get towing added to your insurance.
     
  17. Aug 8, 2020 at 10:44 AM
    #17
    myt1

    myt1 [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2018
    Member:
    #13873
    Messages:
    373
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Richard
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Vehicle:
    2010 Tundra DC TRD SR5 Desert Sand Mica
    OME Lift, 275/70R 18
    I didn't realize there was a Premier AAA.

    A few years ago my buddy required a tow and his car was a few miles up a dirt road at a trailhead.

    He was a member of AAA, but they said they wouldn't leave paved roads.

    Maybe they would've came if he had the Premier AAA.
     
  18. Aug 8, 2020 at 11:00 AM
    #18
    ezdog

    ezdog New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2020
    Member:
    #43363
    Messages:
    2,683
    Gender:
    Male
    Gateway To The West
    Vehicle:
    2001 RCLB V8,4WD 2015 RCLB 5.7,4WD
    There is an RV Premiere policy too which I have that will do special wonderful things beyond the standard for RVs!
     
  19. Aug 8, 2020 at 8:49 PM
    #19
    Trident

    Trident New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2019
    Member:
    #32995
    Messages:
    451
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2007 Tundra DC 4X4
    My Tundra starter sounded bad the 3-4 days leading up to it failing at around 237k miles.
     
    landphil[QUOTED] and Trooper2 like this.
  20. Aug 9, 2020 at 12:54 AM
    #20
    jwatt

    jwatt I heart men

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2020
    Member:
    #40985
    Messages:
    1,301
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jack
    Oregon
    Vehicle:
    Salsa Red 2007 Tundra DC @91k.
    7" BDS Coilover Suspension Lift/BDS UCAs/XB LED Headlights/Nitto trail Grappler tires on Black Rhyno Armory wheels
    The way it sounds; removing/replacing alternator on a 5.7 sucks azz. 5 hours seems to be average time. Has anyone done it? I found a writeup here . It looks like removing the radiator reduces the time a bit, but i m tempted to let a shop do it.
     
  21. Aug 9, 2020 at 1:16 AM
    #21
    koditten

    koditten I am easily distract...look! A squirrel!

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2018
    Member:
    #14241
    Messages:
    2,095
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Kirk
    Midland of the Mitten
    My voltage was fluctuating according to my scan gauge, so I was sure the alternator was failing. In addition, the cruise control will not function properly when the voltage drifts.

    I just had to do it. It does suck ass. Fan, fan shroud, drain the coolant so you can remove the rad hose to get the shroud out of the way. I was tempted to leave the rad in place, but I took it out so I would not accidentally damage it. I've got that T-shirt. It's only 4 more bolts to remove the rad.

    Still with me? Now you get to unbolt the power steering pump from the block to get at the alternator. Those bolts and the alternator bolts are still hard to get at.

    It took me 6 hours.

    I have a lift and it still sucked.

    I took the damn thing to Auto Zone to get the old one tested. it came back as functional. Fuqu that noise, I ordered a new one from the dealer. That much trouble I'm replacing it.
     
  22. Aug 9, 2020 at 5:58 AM
    #22
    brobert225

    brobert225 Firm grasp of the obvious

    Joined:
    May 27, 2020
    Member:
    #47174
    Messages:
    84
    Gender:
    Male
    Houston, TX
    Mine have been trouble free for 20 yrs. I would find something else to work on.
     
    Black Wolf likes this.
  23. Aug 9, 2020 at 6:17 AM
    #23
    Black Wolf

    Black Wolf Chillin' in Alamosa

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2014
    Member:
    #378
    Messages:
    42,413
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Matt
    Alamosa, CO
    Vehicle:
    2022 Nissan Frontier SV 4X4
    TuwaPro rack, Z1 Offroad stuff, NISMO suspension stuff, FlowmasterFX Extreme exhaust, AIS, OVS, J&L can, other goodies on the way
    This^^^. I did buy a replacement Aisin water pump NIB. Don't need it but was $25. Certainly not going to swap in when current pump is working fine and not leaking. I'm a long time believer in not fixing something that's not broke. Not logically sound imho.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top