Problem with skid plate and differential drop

I bought my '18 Tundra used from a local dealership with a lift and wheels and 35's already installed. When I asked, the dealership had no details on type or brand of lift installed. Based on what I've learned from lurking around here, the previous owner appears to have installed a spacer lift and did the differential drop. It doesn't strike me as anything drastic.

I bought a Victory 4x4 skid plate but when I tried to install it I saw that I was hitting against the differential drop. I'm very new to the world of lifted vehicles so I didn't even know what the differential drop was until I saw the skid plate was hitting it and did some research.... "oh, so that's what those two things sticking down are..."

So I went back on Victory 4x4 and bought the extended differential drop hardware. It arrived and when I tried to install the skid plate with the new extended hardware I found that I am still hitting the differential drop and unable to install the skid. The front bolted in fine but the back seems too short along with hitting the differential drop. I've included a few pictures for reference. I know the Victory 4x4 website said it would work with up to a 3" lift. Like I said, I'm new to this but my lift doesn't seem like it is any more than that. I've seen some pretty tricked out rigs here with skid plates, I feel like this should be something that would work.

I have an email in to Victory 4x4 and I'm waiting for their reply but I figured I'd see what kind of responses I could get from here as well.

Thanks in advance.

 

Find a longer bolt and a couple of washers?

 

That's what I'm wondering, seems like a simple fix. I just figured it should have worked with the differential drop hardware (especially since it was $60 for two bolts and some spacers) and I want to make sure I'm not screwing something up.

 

Ready lift has a spacer kit for the TRD skidplate. I used that and it worked. You have a different skid-plate though so your gonna have to figure out what dimension drops you need and go from there. Current ones are too short so bump that by a half inch and see where you’re at.

 

Had the same issue with my TRD plate. I just bought longer bolts. The plate still contacts the diff drop, but tightening up the longer bolts effectively "flexes" the plate around them.

 

Tagging @Victory4x4 as they might have a solution for you. It's their skid, and they might have seen this before. Good luck!

 

Thanks, I sent them an email about it. I just figured I'd see what advice I could get here while I waited for their answer.

 

I figured you had, but this is something others might like to hear about. If they respond here, anyone can see it as needed. I am curious, but I don't have a dog in the fight.

 

I received a reply back. The long and short of it, looks like I will be trying to make it work with longer bolts and spacers.

 

Ok, so I have the plate installed with washers and longer bolts from Lowes. The two pieces of the differential drop under the crossmember are basically resting on top of the skid plate. Do these need any clearance? Attached to the cross member I'm assuming they dont need to move but I dont want to drive it if they need clearance. Apologies if this is a dumb question but I'm new to this.

 

I'd like to know the answer to this too. I have the exact same thing going on with my set up. Skids are touching the crossmember. I forgot to order the extra hardware from Victory when I ordered my skids. I did the same as you- used some stacked washers to lower the plates a little. I installed them a few weeks ago and things are holding up well to normal driving so far.

 

$60 for $5 worth of hardware??? Wow.

 

These two things make me think we're probably good. If it has been normal for you and bobeast says the diff touches on his so I guess we're good

 

yeah, I wasn't really happy about that part.... I can't imagine they are selling many of them but the profit margins have to be huge.

 

This^^^^^
To the OP...I've got almost the exact same set up. On 35's, with Icon's 2.5 front and rear and FS bags, equaling about 3.5" of lift. 1" Diff drop kit.

I started out buying a bunch of longer bolts and additional washers to add to the spacers that come with the kit. For me, getting my hands and forearms twisted around to get all the washers to align was a bitch. I dropped the extra few bucks for the Ready-lift kit. Easy-peasy.

 

It's 50 bucks and does not come with directions, which is so frustrating, but if you sit down and take all the parts out and compare it to your current hardware set you should be able to figure out whats what. Each bolt will be X amount larger than its current counterpart. Still easier than stacking washers....

 

My 2 cents.... If your skid plate is touching the Diff drop bolts they will be subject to any impact forces that you may exert on the skid plate. This means that if you would be OK slamming your diff mounts on rocks, than you don't need clearance. IMHO you want to give the plate room to absorb the impacts and spare all other crucial parts, And although the transfer case mounts are pretty sturdy, there's no telling what internal damage arise from the shock absorbed from whatever obstacle may be striking the skid plate. Also debris will get caught around your transfer case as there no space for them to run out or water to run out. I would be afraid of the mounts rusting due to this, as well as the skid plate if steel.

Lastly the transfer case bushings are rubber to allow for some flex. If you look they are basically bushings encased in steel. If you place the plate against them there's no telling how much articulation and shock absorption is being taken away by not letting the diff articulate against those bushings.

Good luck and remember,

 

Here's the hardware I was referencing
https://www.readylift.com/accessori...MI_vGumP_C5QIVh6DsCh0rDAwcEAQYAiABEgK0m_D_BwE

 

You can see my new monster skid plate spacers here. Notice the gap between the LCA mounts and the plate. The same gap exists under my diff drop.

 

I see what you mean about that, energy from an impact would be transferred directly to the diff drop... I can't see myself ever taking this thing through any serious off road conditions like crawling over rocks though. If it can deal with the occasional tree branch and snow and the like for my pretty mild camping trips I'll be happy.

 

Well there you go...enjoy!!

 

Finally done

 

So I'm curious if by any chance you measured how long the bolts and spacers need to be. I have the same problem and am just going to make my own spacers and buy the longer bolts. Thanks in advance.

 

The diff drop is 1 Inch, So I would ASSUME that as long as your spacers are one inch longer than stock you will maintain the factory clearance between the diff and the plate. To answer your question, no I didn't measure

 

Hi I had a similar problem on my 20 Tundra TRD stock with no lift. The skid was contacting the front diff housing. They sent me a free spacer kit which fixed it and left some room but if I ever decide to lift it I’ll have fit problems again.

I also have one of their rear diff covers and that will not fit. The axle clamp brackets do not reach the axle so the skid is contacting the diff housing. I can’t even put the 4 th bolt into the brackets. The other 3 bolts have 1-2 threads hanging on. Victory said that’s normal and I find that hard to believe. Toyota says there is only 1 rear diff/ axle housing but I’m wondering if there might be a variation for the tow package I have with the 4:30 gear ratio.

I staring to question and lose faith in their engineering team.