Replacement for Griot's Poly Wax?

Just got my Tundra and show car buddy recommended Griot's Liquid Gloss Poly Wax. Unfortunately, they have discontinued that one - anyone know of a replacement product? The Liquid Gloss Ploy Wax according to Griot's was "ultra durable synthetic polymer base" and "the best for everyday drivers, cars that stay outside, etc."

And, just got my tundra - so any other detailing products/tools you guys recommend I'm all ears. Need to install bed cover and mud flaps etc - then it will be time for a wash and wax! If someone uses a full regiment of 1,2,3,4 products do this then do that, then do this....I would appreciate the strict, full regiment regardless of brand affiliations!

Appreciate the hepp!

 

This stuff is great (and cheap) plus lasts a long time.

 

Will check it out, I'm not certain about the ceramic stuff (I don't know anything about it, marketing buzz, legit, otherwise....)

I have to find everything I need to start on the right foot, should I clay bar? The plethora of products out there is overwhelming (there is even clay lubricant?).

And what's all this Mr. Pink / Chemical Guys stuff I'm seeing, there wash stuff looks pretty popular. Who knows.

 

Yes you'd want to do a decontamination with a cleaner plus wax bar for sure (same for regular waxing too). The chemical guys etc are more mid grade stuff and lots of marketing, nothing wrong just know it’s not “premium”.

https://youtu.be/O2lrXVV9kWU?si=4qfeYCbA646ffg3f

 

A lot depends on your budget, and how much of the work you are willing to do yourself. Ceramic coatings are the most durable, and they can be done DIY....but there is an investment in both time and money to do them correctly. You can buy yourself some time, and protect your ride, with a good quality sealant, or one of the ceramic spray coatings on the market. Speaking from experience, avoid Chemical Guys...more hype than substance. Here are the basics to get you started:

Bucket(s) - Lowes/Home Depot...a bucket is a bucket
Quality microfiber wash mitts
Good soap - Turtle Wax Slick and Slide is good
drying towels - Griots PFM....expensive but worth it
Tuf shine tire scrub brush
Griots Garage wheel cleaner (the green stuff)
Turtle wax Hyper Foam tire cleaner
General purpose microfibers - Costco (kirkland)

If you want to just apply a sealant to buy yourself some time - Jescar Power Lock Plus. Put it on thin...you do not need much. Try and find the 8oz bottle....trust me on this one. Get yourself some quality microfiber for the removal of the sealant. Autogeek sells the Cobra brand....they are good.

It's a long and winding road you are going down.....which leads to an enormous rabbit hole.

 

Thanks for the info, yes it is, I do/did realize that pretty quickly, but wanted to start the 'right way' with a good quality wax job. Figured I'd open the question up while I was at it.

Current plan is Griot's Weekend Therapy
- Basic Wash/Dry using included Griot's Wash Soap, PFM etc.
- Use included Speed Shine and Synthetic Clay
- Apply included Carnauba Wax - allow it to cure 48 hrs.

+ Add-On Griot's Ceramic Liquid Wax to finish it off

Wonder how much time it will take me, ran the old 4Runner through the drive through - been a minute since I've waxed a truck!

Thanks for the hepp!

 

Do not bother with the carnuba wax....you will be better off going with the ceramic only....it will bond better without the carnuba

Is that the Griots 3 in 1 Ceramic Liquid Wax? If its the Griots Ceramic All in One.....that has abrasives in it

If it were me....and I wanted to use a Carnuba....I'd use Jescar Ultra Lock Plus (sealant) followed by Jescar Color Lock (carnuba)

 

I asked Griots this a while back, and they told me the Ceramic all-in-one wax and Ceramic Wax replaced it.

Meguiars Ultimate Wax is very similar to the Griots Poly product and is what I use now. Really good stuff.

 

Interesting answer from Griots....because the All-in-one is more of a traditional AIO with abrasives.....and neither the Poly Wax nor the Ceramic Wax have any abrasives or correction ability. Meguiars Ultimate Wax and Griots PolyWax were very similar products.....especially since neither are a wax....both are polymer based sealants. I always got good performance out of the Megs Ultimate Wax....my only issue with it was that I found that it did not give me good depth of color....great gloss though, and good durability.

 

They told me it would bond better on top of the carnauba!? The ceramic wax they recommended was the Ceramic Liquid Wax. Pic attached….now I’m worried, steer me straight guys….

looks like all in one is PN 10895
ceramic Liquid Wax is PN 10909
and 3 in 1 is PN 19078


As usual thanks for the hepp!

 

Ceramics are designed to bond to clear coat....that's why you need to apply true ceramic coatings to bare clearcoat for best results. They even recommend a full decontamination and panel wipe ahead of time. Stick with the stuff in the bottle in your post and you will be fine. Here's a link to Griots prep/application/removal video of it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqDdXzQHdTE

 

Adding a new* product, maybe…plan is now…

Current plan is Griot's Weekend Therapy
- Use Basic Wash with foam gun and rinse.
* Use Brilliant Finish Car Wash for hand wash and dry using included Griot's Wash Soap, PFM etc.
- Use included Speed Shine and Synthetic Clay

- do I need to dry before the speed shine and synthetic clay?
- do I need to rinse and dry after the speed shine and synthetic clay?

+ Add-On Griot's Ceramic Liquid Wax to finish it off

how do you guys clean your mitts etc AFTER the wash?

thanks for the hepp! The week I get the truck they started replacing the road, ugh! But we gonna get shined up soon!

 

You do not need to dry after clay...part of the process is wiping off the Speed Shine. I've heard some people actually wash again after the clay process...I never have. At that point, the surface is dry and free of embedded contaminants, except iron deposits. I'd move on to your LSP (last step protection).

Washing microfibers is an interesting process. Some wash the mitts separately...I never have. All of my microfiber products get washed in the same load, using All Free and Clear. I add an extra rinse/spin cycle afterwards to get them as clean as possible. They go into the dryer......AIR DRY temp - no heat.....for 30 minutes and then I hang them up to complete the drying process. My wash mitts all get rinsed after using....to get rid of any loose particles trapped in them.

There are a bunch of videos out there that can help with this. What I've outlined is my process.....and it's served me well over the years.

 

So on the iron - I read this this morning. Don’t thing I can get the iron stuff from fruits before upcoming 5 hiur round trip

https://bimmerlife.com/2019/09/28/proper-paint-decontamination-with-griots-garage/



new vehicle so not sure if it’s necessary for first treatment or not…

can’t thank you enough for the hepp briarpatch

 

That's kind of the ironic part....most folks with new vehicles do not think iron removal is necessary.....you would be surprised what comes off of a new vehicle. If you do not have the time for it...it's not critical....just worth doing. You can get CarPro Iron-X on Amazon.....stuff stinks like skunk pee....but works very well.

 

You can go crazy, or make your life easy. This is my go to. Wash, spray, dry and go.

 

I’ll try to snag something and fit it in - can I use my same drying (Griot’s PFM) cloth? Looks I can grab Adams polishes iron remover , someone said they liked Adam’s….maybe that will suffice?

what “step” is this for me? Before the clay? After?

How long does my cermamic wax need to cure before I drive - road trip?

thanks for the HEPP (lord knows I needed it)!

 

I don't remember the cure time for the Griots product....I think Nick mentioned it in the video I linked in an earlier post. Removing iron fallout, also known as chemical decontamination, would be done prior to the wash.....although there is more than one school of thought on that. I prefer doing it then....I do not want the vehicle wet...it dilutes the fallout remover. The Adams product will work fine. Fallout remover gets rinsed off...not wiped off.

Griots sells a towel as part of their Speed Shine Kit......that will work well for the removal of the clay lube (Speed Shine)...here's a link:

https://www.griotsgarage.com/pfm-edgeless-detailing-towels-set-of-3/

 

Got it done. 8-9 hours, happy to have done and off to good start protection wise. Will not be so easy after hunting season, more miles, time, mud, dust etc. I don’t expect anyone has followed along but I started with new so this is not some miraculous clean up; but wanted to get it protected.

Happy with most of the Griot’s products in the weekend therapy kit as well as the Ceramic Liquid Wax.

PFM towel worth every penny as folks said, nice it was included in weekend therapy kit.

Used Adam’s Iron Remover since didn’t have time to get Griot’s. Not married to Griot’s just figured I could stick with a brand and keep it simp like that. Dark vehicle so dunno if it did anything. Had to used two bottles ugh ($30).

grabbed Black Satin tire dress, got shine first but y’all high on Satin so GG Satin it is.

GG wheel scrubby thingies kinda suck (they suck), need something better / easier.

I didn’t put anything on the plastic / trim - dunno if I was supposed to / need to?

Used Brilliant Finish wash for main wash and basic soap for pre, not sure it mattered no way to know. Maybe that was an extra or uneccessary step (meaning foam pre-wash/rinse).

Grant’s foam gun from a harbor Freight was fine.

Harbor Freight Grant’s Grit Guards will not stay in bottom of my wash buckets hmmm.

Dunno what I really accomplished with the synthetic clay and speed shine.

Grabbed Griot’s Microfiber Duster - thinking imma be liking that little guy A LOT!

Didn’t do anything else interior wise other than vacumn up a few days grit off the mats. So the whole interior adventure awaits.

EXHAUSTED.

Will go back through and organize my thoughts at a later date.

BUT, wanted to share some feedback as a way of thanking all you guys for the HEPP. Only fair I return and share as well. Few pics attach.

I really appreciate the hepp, I’m sure I’ll have questions down the road but thank y’all for getting me squared away before I take any big trips.

ps tires prob not dry - wps

 

Hi again!

So couple questions. For the routine washes…just basic wash right? No iron remover, speed shine, clay etc…

- Use Basic Wash with foam gun and rinse.
* Use Brilliant Finish Car Wash for hand wash and dry using included Griot's Wash Soap, PFM etc.

And then in 4-6 months - I repeat the whole process…starting with the iron remover?

Or do I have to use a new product that removes my ceramic “wax” and then start from scratch?

Thanks - almost got all all this figured out….haha (yeah right).

Hepp!

 

Your truck looks great. That is really an outstanding job. That is what I do, in six months I start over again. I should say I use a sealant, an I start over when it starts to fail. You mentioned you didn't see a result when you clayed. If you do claying right, it is a very important step. It pulls all the contaminants off the truck's paint. When you get done claying, your truck should feel slick as glass. I wash after I clay. Good luck.

 

Thank you! And thanks for the hepp!

 

Correct.......decontamination is a part of a full detail, not a maintenance wash. Since you used the Ceramic Wax, I'd top it every other wash. It will extend the life of the Ceramic Wax. It will also provide slickness...which I'm very fond of. Recently, I've tried Amplify from Armour Detail Supply....very nice product.....adds a fair amount of slickness and gloss as well.