Replacing leaf springs

Hi all, I have a 2008 CrewMax 2WD. My springs have that downward bend that comes from too much load. (My fault, I had a pallet of tile loaded on it without realizing it was 2500 lbs, then bottomed out hard on a bump I didn't see.) It creaks a lot when I tow my 6700 lb travel trailer and turn right. Weird.

First question: I got a lead on a set of stock springs from a 2017 Tundra. Will they work on a 2008? I attached a picture of the springs the guy is selling. They look a little different from the 08 springs. The 08 springs don't have that cup on one end. I suspect itt will work because places like sdsprings and kcsprings sell the same spring pack for 2007-current (I think).

Which brings up a second question: I normally drive with an empty bed. I tow the trailer and load up a generator, gas, chairs, ice chest, and supplies maybe every 1.5 months. If I buy and install a heavy duty set from sd or KC (4/1 instead of 3/1), does that make the truck ride unbearable when it's unloaded (most of my driving)? Does anybody have a crew cab with the 4/1 springs (no lift kit, just springs)? How much rougher than stock is it? I can deal with s tiny bit of lift but I really don't want any of I can avoid it.

Thanks in advance.

...Todd

 

I recommend you talk with Alcan Springs. I spoke with Tyler. He was very knowledgeable. They currently have an 8 - 10 week lead time for their leaf springs. He and I discussed what I needed and agreed on upgraded leaf springs (Zero lift) that could handle a 350lb tongue weight as well as Timbren springs (to handle any excess load the leaf springs cannot). He said this setup won't sacrifice ride quality since I too drive unloaded most often.

 

Follow up, I took it to a local shop and had them remove the old damaged springs and install the used set I picked up. It was well within my capabilities, but my big limitation ended up being that I didn't have a long enough throw jack to lift the frame and get the tires off the ground.

The truck rear tyre well is about an inch higher now that it has non damaged springs. I can live with that.

 

How has the ride changed?

 

Did you replace the u bolts?

 

As far as the ride, I can't really feel any difference for the past 5 days of city driving. I have not towed anything yet to know if it sounds better (less creaking) or if it affects the squat or of the load leveling hitch will need adjustment (suspect not).

I did not replace the u-bolts, they were not bent or misshapen.

My only issue now is that I get a weird ratcheting like sound when I brake hard. I suspect the mechanic bumped the rear brake shield and it rubs when the brakes cause some kind of flex? I don't know for sure, I have not delved into it yet, just read through forum posts looking for similar complaints. It for sure is related to the speed of the wheel turning.

I am also going to double check the torque on the spring hanger bolts to make sure the mechanic did not over torque them. I believe the hanger bolts are supposed to be 80 ft-lbs, can anybody confirm that?

Finally, I did not pay attention to which side had the teeth on the bolt hole before. He mounted it with the cupped leaf in the rear. I looked at a 2018 Tundra that was gassing up next to me today, and the cupped spring is on the front bolt, not the rear hanger. I am bringing it back to the ship tomorrow to have them turned around.

 

It may just be confirmation bias, but now that the springs are turned around and the correct end is facing the front, it feels like it rides and handles bumps a little better. Additionally, when I stop hard I no longer hear that weird ratcheting or rubbing that I was hearing before. Overall I am very happy with these 2017 Tundra leaf springs on my 2008 crew cab.

I'll know more in a week when I tow my trailer up the mountain to the place we are staying for a couple nights, and then drive it back down the mountain.