Resolved: Installing Big Sert for TB idler pulley bracket

I have 100% confirmed that the Heli coil/tap Out was installed slightly non-perpendicular for the TB tensioner bracket.

after screwing in a long stud for that hole and then using a deep well socket, it is very apparent that the stud/heli coil repair is pointed slightly downward and slightly toward the passenger side which would cause the timing belt to tend to get off track toward the front.



I have not been able to find good videos on this scenario. And I have searched a lot

I don't believe the repaired hole has been tapped off-center enough to prevent a correct fix with a big sert

The big sert does come with a kit that includes a guide for the tap. I am equally concerned about drilling out the hole after removing the heli coil.
EDIT: maybe if the drilling is only to remove the previously tapped threads then it's not as critical for the drill-bit-/drilling as it is to have the tap perpendicular???


I assume the only solution is to use cutting/drilling oil for aluminum. Drill as slowly as possible to ensure I am drilling, perpendicular and not tilting the guide. That seems like it is going to be a big challenge

Their guide:



it appears the process is essentially the same as installing a Heli coil





any words of wisdom are appreciated because my options for repair without replacing the oil pump are quickly diminishing unless the big sert is fully successful


EDIT: I ordered a 2" x 2" x 6" aluminum block for milling. I just have to practice once or twice before I have the confidence to tackle this I would gladly pay someone one experienced to do it

 

Cant remove the heli coil. I've watched video after video and none of the methods work. I guess a threaded insert extraction tool is all that is left. none seem to be in stock locally


it makes it harder because the space is so tight it's hard to see in the hole to pick the coil

 

Can u use a drill guide? And yes plenty o cutting fluid. Id lighty clamp housing down witg rags to protect, use guide, go slow.

I have a levolite precusion drill guide I use for stuff like this. With this kind of job it might take some McGyvering, but i drink too much coffee to be trusted to drill true.

 

I'm a little bit less worried about getting the hole straight now. Just go very slow with cutting oil and use the guide in the kit


My immediate problem is getting the heli coil out

 

Hope all goes well today. I am also similar situation right now today. what Time cert kit size would I need ? I was considering heliCoil but seems TimeCert will be a better option. let me know asap as i have to order it very soon

 

I have been in touch with the time sert tech support. However, they seem to only offer support by email.

The entire kit seems to be made to use a tap handle. Even the drill bit is four sided and I can't get it straight. There's always a little wobble, no matter how far I insert the drill bit

Am I missing something? Tapping is one thing but I can't imagine drilling out the hole by hand



glad I got this aluminum block to do some testing

 

I mean, you can buy drilling guides. Or if you have a drill press, you can make your own drill guide. Drill down thru a block of metal like the one you have there, that's flat of course, and you'll have a perfectly perpendicular hole.

Put the block on top of what you're drilling, and ideally clamp it down, you'll get a perpendicular hole.

 

it came with a small guide

not sure there is room for a block. that would make it so much better

so does it seem like my only option is drilling it by hand with the tap handle?

 

If what I see there is what you've got to work with, then what I'd do is this.

I'd probably be tempted to do what I said, drill a guide out of a block and use it.

I'm not saying you should do it this way, I'm just thinking out loud about ways you could maybe do it. Like, the roundness of that boss on the oil pump housing is, say, 1" wide, I'd cut your guide block to 1" square. Cean up the block really well, then JBweld the guide block squarely over the hole. That may be easier than it sounds, maybe if you applied the JB weld, laid the block on, then bolted it down? Ideally, if you could use a temporary sleeve with wall thickness to match your difference in hole sizes that would be best. Once the JB weld hit cure time, pull your bolt, pull your sleeve if used, inspect and clear the hole of any JBW that may've slid into it, and drill baby drill.

Once drilling is done, BFH to knock the guide off, and hope nothing comes with it, but I'm assuming (maybe making Ass of U and Me) with such a thin coat, with being pressed on during curing, it shouldn't be too bad?

I'm probably overthinking the process. I wouldn't proceed without more input, because my method may be total ass. This is one of those times when I'd lean on a @JakeJake or @alb1k, I consider those two guys to be pretty solid with their fab work from what I've seen.

 

thanks. For reference, this is the guide that came with the kit

 

I mean, that guide is effectively doing what I'm saying do but with a block. I just like the idea of a block because the propensity for it to tilt off-access with a thin shaft like that is clearly higher than a block would suffer.

I dunno the right solution. I'm also realizing if you did JBW a block on there, you'd need to go light on the JBW, then properly 'face' the surface after you pop off the block to ensure the surface is square again.

 

I guess one option would be to make the block larger than the mill surface - big enough so that you don't put the JB weld on the milled surface just outside that surface. The JB weld would obviously have to be thicker

 

With the round milled section, you have a known-flat surface, so as long as your guide was flush to that milled surface, I guess it could work. I'd be moderately worried about the JBW grabbing (or not grabbing) given the oil that's been in those spots, but you really only need it to provide an extra set of hands, I guess.

Maybe you could even drill and insert couple of small short stubby rods into the bottom of the guide so it'll hold into the JBW.

 

1st test attempt using only the kit:



I felt like I had the tap perpendicular using the guide. However, there is no guide for the drill bit so it's very possible the insert forced the threads to conform with the line of the drilled hole

It is further from perpendicular than the heli coil tap/hole that is on the truck




And time sert tech-support has gone stone cold

only thing I know to do is to get someone to make a jig/guide from this aluminum block I have

or else get lucky and find a protector sleeve/spacer with a flange that just so happens to be the size of the drill bit

 

Any reason this style guide wouldn't work?


I would definitely do the drilling with the tap handle. It's going to suck, but tiny cuts = tiny mistakes.

 

yeah, I thought about that after that post and realized I would rather drill it by hand for those very reasons

that guide would have to be one of the two largest holes at the end if not the largest.

Just not enough room on both sides

 

Sacrifice to the gods, cut it down to what you need to make it work

 

Geez, so friggin simple

That's why I should've walked away earlier today and got my mind off of it

 

That style guide comes in a lot of different variations. what size is the drill?

Cut the interfering portions off the drill guide. They are generally a tool steel alloy (ooo pretty sparks) Thats important for accuracy. An aluminum guide is a recipe for disaster.

The real problem here is that this is a skill best learned as an employee on someone else's part A half decent machinist would probably have this licked without a second though using only tools in his box.

 

it being a skill is exactly why I bought that aluminum block for testing. I would've gladly paid a machinist or specialist to fix this hole

 

Finding a machinist to work in a cramped/dirty engine bay is one in a million. You've got this.

 

It looks like the idler boss is part of the oil pump assembly.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinf...VOeuh9NtwxyFuqhy2aVW1SmuaGU4NgZ6kG7FeKZ6rzWU=

If the big-sert goes sideways (no pun intended) this would get you back on the road. Or if you haven't purchased the big-sert yet this is probably around the same cost. (with a few hours more wrenching)

 

that is my next step if the big sert fails

and I don't mind the money for the oil pump, but I would spend untold hours doing that job

 

Just tested the big-sert I installed on the test block of aluminum and pleased with results

I got up to 60 foot pounds and then I think the insert may have started spinning a little bit. But that is understandable since the insert is in aluminum. And the inserts that I had to get are only 14 mm long (10x1.25) instead of the more common 20mm due to the limited depth of the bolt hole. You must have an extra 6mm depth beyond the sleeve in order to seat/expand it properly and this hole is only 23mm.

So considering the sleeve is installed in aluminum that's more than enough for this pulley bracket bolt torqued at 34/35 ft/lbs

 

Loctite 277

 

That's a good point

it comes with their locking product, but I didn't use it on this just for testing

 

had to buy this online because I couldn't find it locally. It should be here Tuesday. The second largest hole(31/64) is the drill bit size so I should be able to cut this thing in half to make it fit





This guide together with hand drilling is as good as it gets without being able to use a table drill

 

I have quite a few metric Timesert kits in my toolbox. I’ve probably installed over 60 of them in various projects. Sometimes to fix stuff, but most of the time to be used for installing stronger steel threads in aluminum. Time’s guides aren’t that great, but they do a semi-decent job of keeping the drill bit perpendicular to the work…if there’s enough room to hold it.

Did you remove the radiator and unbolt the AC condenser (and pivot it out of the way)? The tranny cooler can be moved as well. You’ll have tons more elbow room after that. I’d clean that whole area with Purple Power so that your hands aren’t slipping and sliding on a greasy engine block. It will make life easier. Lisle square drive tap sockets make life easier for projects exactly like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-70500-...0418711&mcid=c75d15a7c38334619f0fd53a8aae995e

 

yes, the radiator, etc. is off the front. But,I didn't realize the AC condenser would pivot out-of-the-way. I should've looked at that And the tranny cooler more closely.

thanks that should help out greatly because it is otherwise next to impossible to get your head in there while working on it

what's the advantage of those tap sockets? The kit comes with a tap guide. I'm sure those sockets are probably better. EDIT: nm I see and have seen those before. I do have a nice T handle that will fit in there, but the sockets might be a better option.

 

The Time’s square drive bits and pieces will slip inside the Lisle’s tap guides, then you can use a standard 3/8” extension or ratchet (or electric drill) to turn them. They’re designed for tap (and die) sets, which it was a Time-sert pretty much is.

Here’s a video to show how they work. I didn’t actually watch the video, so maybe there’s better ones out there. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o9av0dYMwVg