Reverse lights switch

2002 with a V6 and automatic transmission. Reverse lights not working: fuse tested good, new bulbs.

I know that manual trannies have an easy-to-get-at switch on the side of the transmission. But what do automatic transmissions use? Does my Tundra use a "PRND switch" (is this part the same as a "Neutral Safety Switch")?



Thanks in advance.

 

Also...would a bad PRND switch (neutral safety switch?) also explain why my instrument cluster does not indicate/show what gear is currently selected?

Otherwise, my Tundra drives great!

 

As in no gear….RD2L ?

 

Correct. I have to "feel" for the gear I'm selecting. And no reverse lights.

 

A bad or mal-functioning Park/neutral Position Switch will cause no backup lights and shift indicator according to 2002 FSM troubleshooting chart.

 

@BubbaW

Thank you, BubbaW! Would there be a part number given for that specific switch?

 

I would suggest first making some continuity checks at the connector IF you have access to a volt/ohm meter !

 

Will do. And thank you. I will keep you posted.

 

Is it safe to assume you’ve checked the backup light fuse by now? First things first…

The switch on the transmission is also called a “range sensor”, it’s on the shaft that the shifter cable lever attaches to. But it costs a lot more than the fuse…

 

I'm thinking the answer is yes.

 

Yes. I checked it. I even replaced the fuse (which was still good) with a new one just for shits and giggles.

 

It was too hot and I was too tired after work today...but I did manage to get a quick peek. I will get her up on ramps hopefully this weekend.

 

I got the old NSS off. Was a bit of a bear surprisingly...it did not want to just slide off the spindle.

Anyway, should I put thread-locker on the bolt threads? Or should I put a bit of ant-seize on the threads instead?

 

I'd always check the Factory Service Manual (FSM) if you want to do as Toyota does. There are copies here and there, you can even potentially find attached to posts in certain forums.

However, if you're in a pinch and don't have time to look, there's a general rule of thumb to follow, although some may argue with what I was taught. That is:

If it's in an area if could vibrate out, use a medium strength threadlock like blue, it's safe on nearly anything, like painting a bolt shut, you can remove later w/hand tools.
If it's in an area that sees lots of abuse and is never expected to be disassembled later, would require heat and power tools to remove later, use red.

There are other colors for Loctite, but generally speaking, I use blue on anything if vibration or direct movement of the piece is possible and a star washer, split washer or other lockwasher AND/OR a poly-lock nut isn't used. Blue comes in both liquid and stick/paste-like formats. I prefer the paste stick but have both.

In this case, it looks like the fastener has a flat washer with a split washer between it and the head. This makes me think you're safe just torquing down and letting the split washer do its job. But if you have blue Loctite sitting around, It wouldn't hurt to put a single line down the bottom few threads before torquing.

PS. You may be able to appreciate, the advice above is from my dad, 20yrs USN, hydraulics mechanic on P3 & E2. This is what he used on those planes while serving, and it's what I apply to every project I've ever worked on.

 

Personally, if I see they did I will but it also wouldn't hurt to follow @shifty` thoughts. We have numerous parts where they did not use anti-seize and if FSM does not reference it, I simply torque to standards and move on !

 

@BubbaW

Well, that didn't go as hoped.

The old NSS checked out okay for reverse per the TSM. That said, I am very glad I had the new NSS on hand because the old switch wouldn't come off the spindle so that I could test the two leads on the switch (I couldn't get to leads 2 & 3 to put my voltmeter on them with the switch in place). I had to break off two of the four collar fingers in order to pull the old switch off the transmission's position spindle.

So I put the new NSS in and hooked the wire harness back up.

I then pulled fuse #22 (10amp; guages and meters, starting system, back-up lights, daytime running lights, and air conditioning sysyem)...and I'm getting 12v and 0.7K ohms with the ignition on and shifter in reverse position. Still no reverse lights and shift position indicator on the dashboard.

Does the TSM go further if the NSS tests good?

 

I'm thinking now I should have checked for continuity at leads 2&3 in the NSS wire harness connector... looking for an open somewhere going back to the reverse lights?

 

Want to be on same page, your use of NSS, is that what Toyota is calling PNP(park/neutral position switch) ?

Can look at FSM when I get back home !

Curious if you have memorized codes not mentioned ?