Rhino Exhaust long tube headers from Australia - good idea?

Hey everyone,

The crummy short tube headers on my 2001 Sequoia are driving me crazy, and I've been wanting to make the switch over to some long tubes for a while now. Unfortunately, no one makes any long tube headers for the 1st gen Tundra/Sequoia platform anymore (at least, not that I could find), although there are lots of Australian companies that make them for the RHD land cruiser 100 series.

I've been talking back and forth with this company, Rhino Exhaust, about this product, and they've made a special LHD version that's supposed to fit US 2UZ-FE equipped vehicles. The LHD version is supposedly almost exactly identical to the RHD version except basically mirrored, and includes the same coating, gaskets, and outlet dimensions. They have quoted me 985 AUD (roughly $665 USD at the time of writing this) for the headers by themselves (no cats) shipped. I've attached a bit of correspondence from them.

I guess my question is, does anyone have any experience with this company? Is this a good deal? Is this style of long tube less effective than what JBA made with the 6010S? Any and all thoughts and opinions are welcome!

-Alec

 

@dirtydeeds

 

I want a set of long tube headers for my 2001 tundra. Any information would be greatly appreciate it.

 

Those headers look sexy, I hope some of the more experienced guys in this forum chip in.

 

Those aren't true long-tube like the old JBA/Dirty Deeds. Those are actually tri-Y headers, and look closer to mid-length. Like the Doug Thorley TRD headers.

This is a good thing as tri-Y is better for low end torque. Where does an automatic vehicle spend most of it's time? Low RPM.

I got nearly 35ft-lbs of extra torque at the low end on the dyno with my Stan's Tri-Y headers.

Not a bad price if they're shipped. I'd jump all over that, especially considering they're less expensive than current market price shorties.

 

Here is an example of a long tube header. Long pipes that merge into a single collector.

 

Wow! Those are some good looking tubes. It looks like you've traded a bit of power at the real top end (I rarely get my sequoia over 70, let alone 90) for a TON down where it matters. I'm pretty convinced.

I'd be curious to see if anyone else has ever bought from this company, but from a pure performance perspective I like the way that dyno looks. What else did you modify in the system? What's the collector diameter on those? Downpipe diameter, mufflers, cats?

 

Did you test those with cats or straight pipes? Would you recommend getting those rhinos (1)with the cats they make, (2)running stock cats or (3)no cats?

Thanks for your input, greatly appreciate it!!

 

To answer questions, I have other threads showing the journey but I'll sum it up here:

Mods at time of first dyno:
Dirty Deeds 12 hole injectors
New Denso OE spark plugs
New OE denso O2 sensors
All maintenance items and fluids new.

Mods at time of second dyno:
Dirty Deeds 12 hole injectors
AEM dry flo drop in air filter
Stans 01-04 2UZFE non-VVTi tri-y headers
Custom full exhaust (dual 2.5" cats, custom Y pipe, 2.5" Borla resonator, and 2.5" Borla muffler.)

Collector diameter on my headers is 3". I chose to go with 2.5" components with a single 2.5" exhaust to keep sound levels civil. Almost stock sound at cruise and you only hear the exhaust when you romp the throttle. I'm very happy with how the Borla components turned out.
https://youtu.be/au1Xv60pHwE
https://youtu.be/PeAohVhR33A

My only complaint about headers is hearing the valve tick. Having a thick cast iron manifold dampens some of the valve train sound and changing to a thin-wall stainless tube will let you hear some tinging noises under moderate load.

Dynos have proven air intakes/filters make no difference in power on our engines, stick with OE paper type filters. I just have the AEM filter because I got it for free.

Dynos have also proven there is minimal gain in exhaust systems on our trucks. Even the restrictive looking stock Y-pipe after the cats and before the first resonator isn't much of a flow problem.

Yes, I did find a way to install non-VVTi headers onto a VVTi motor. I don't recommend it unless you are a decent mechanic.

I always recommend running cats. Yet again, dynos show they aren't much of a restriction and can benefit air quality vs running catless.

As far as running this manufacturers specific cats that's up to you. They do not look bolt in so you're going to have to have a muffler shop weld in a mating pipe to your stock or aftermarket exhaust of choice. Personally I wouldn't waste the money. Since you will have to have exhaust work done to have it mate to your system may as well pay for US cats to be installed. Not sure how Australian standards of emissions compare to US. If anything I believe Aussie emissions is stricter but at least if the question ever came up you can show your cats are US compliant.

A talented exhaust shop may be able to mate those headers to your stock cats. Without seeing the measurements it's hard to tell.

 

Dang, that sounds mean as hell! I had some Borla stuff on an old Jeep ZJ back in undergrad, and believe me I had a grin on my face every time I put my foot down.

Since I already have a 2.5" exhaust downstream that I slapped together, I don't think it would be too much modification to get it to mate up with with long tubes. Just a couple chops and welding on a new flange and I should be OK. I think with the current price US long tubes are running for (1500 plus shipping is what I was quoted for a special batch of JBA 6010S), I think $665 on my doorstep for something very similar to what you have is not a bad deal. I'll have to break out the old angle grinder and harbor freight welder, but if it gets rid of that awful exhaust tick it'll be a lot better. How noticeable is your 'tinging' sound? If you have the radio on, does it get drowned out? Would you happen to have a picture of what your exhaust looks like underneath the truck?

Thanks so much for your insight! You're very thorough in your postings.

 

The ting isn't very pronounced but I notice it. I wrapped the primaries in a thick heat shield to quiet it down. I notice it, but that doesn't mean everyone does. It definitely gets drowned out with the radio on. But no radio windows down you can hear it.

Here's a few pics. Passenger side underneath with motor mount removed, then with the aluminized thick mat on the primaries.

Here is the wrap I put on using stainless zip ties.
AC PERFORMANCE Reduce Radiant Heat Heatshield Armor 1/2" Thick x 1' Wide x 3' Long Exhaust Pipe Heat Shield Silver (12.7mm Thick x 1 Foot Wide x 3 feet Length)

$56 AC PERFORMANCE Reduce Radiant Heatshield Armor 3' Long x 1' Wide x 1/2" Thick Exhaust Pipe Multipurpose Heat Shield, Fiberglass Laminated Aluminum

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0833WMG3D

 

Wow, thank you for the information. Your tundra sounds great.

 

I digress and thread hijack. Those headers are a steal at that price. The 1UZ and 2UZ are still very popular engines in Australia. I've been scoping out a roots type supercharger for the 100 series VVTi 2UZFE Land Cruiser made in Australia, to give you an idea of their aftermarket. There's more support there for our engines than in the US. As soon as the 5.7 dropped the 4.0 and 4.7 were relatively cast to the shadows. Especially true since the 4.7L 2UZFE was only available for about a decade.

If I were in your situation, knowing what I know now, I would buy them. Especially if they are LHD compatible.

Those manifolds, Magnaflow cats, JBA or custom Y-pipe, and stock or JBA exhaust and you got a winning combo for a huge bump in low RPM torque for not much cash. Hell, even if you want to adapt them to the OE cats and exhaust you're still looking at a goodly torque increase.

When installing them save yourself a headache and use a multi-layer steel exhaust manifold gasket and the factory nuts and studs. A lot of headers come with bolts and a cheap fiber compressible gasket. Better to use correct components once than having to change a leaky manifold gasket later or chase after bolts that constantly back off.

 

Well thank you @axtawesomizer for inquiring about these headers and bringing them to our attention. And @Riverdale21 thank you Sir, for sharing with us your opinion based on first hand experience. I reached out to Rhino Exhaust and plan on pulling the trigger on these since there are no other options available. Hope all ends well.

 

Keep us posted.

 

In all fairness and reality, the thread you linked to the OP still hasn't even produced a picture of his fabricator buddy's work. Nothing has been discussed about pricing, availability, construction, etc. It's still a pipe dream at this point.

The Aussies are ready at a fair price. That wins in my book.

 

@Riverdale21 I agree, is not good practice to let go of the bird in hand for one flying. I’ll thread with caution and see how things unfold in the next couple days. Hope all ends well.

 

Fair. I agree, if your already that far along with AUS you should go that route. Keep us updated. Was there a confirmation that the header is going to fit without much modification?

OP from other post responded. Not much happening there. Im ready to go Rhino also, have you received confirmation that they fit? (06 AC here) any info on what the header is made from?

 

@BanksyB31 They reached out to me Friday and confirmed having a LHD version of their
Tri-y header but asked me for more information about the motor and for a picture of the trucks manufacturer plate, which seems like a good way to move forward. We’ll see how things progress.

 

Sounds good

 

Watching this thread closely... very interested

 

There are 3 of us that seem to be on board. 2 in WA and I think the other in TN. If seriously interested email rhino from there website and let them know your level of interest. Maybe we can bid for additional discounts or savings on shipping. I think these will be a great option. I intend to run OEM gaskets at the block and the cats from rhino. Will figure out the rest of the exhaust when the time comes.

 

Im thinking on taking the same route as well, OEM gaskets, and rhino cats. I should hear from them tomorrow, ill post any details as I’m sure you guys will too.

 

Provided the Rhino cats are good to go, this shouldn't affect emissions testing requirements right?

 

@DarkMint I don’t know, I’m not too worried, since emissions where I live at won’t be a problem and I don’t plan on ever selling my truck. I do have some questions I’m hoping to get answered in the next couple days.

 

I have questions about the cats, the materials the headers are made off and what if any finishes they offer. All this after we verify they fit my truck. They sure look sweet.

Rhino headers

 

Ugh, moving to an emissions state sucks. Plan before was if the cats get chopped just straight pipe that sucker and be done with it. Now it's a whole nother set of headaches. After they verify if it'll fit your truck, can you add a question of their cats vs OEM cats?

 

@DarkMint sure will.

 

pretty sure this isn’t happening without some variation of customization from muffler shop. Think it’s best we focus on direct bolt up to engine (should be) and will it clear the bottom of the firewall (fingers crossed) if both are a go I don’t see why this wouldn’t work. Oem cats, additional mufflers and resonators can be mated in one way or another. Suspect Rhino probably hasn’t test fitted this combo or they would list them for our trucks on the site, might not be able to answer specific questions.

 

Also, if we all show interest by sending a short sweet email that your interested they might see that there is a market for our trucks and make a set specifically for 1st gens.