Rugged off road Toyota 1” rear lift block kit

Today, I am going To install this 1 inch rear lift kit that I got from Josh at 1stgenoffroad.

I watched a good Video of someone installing these. Looks very straightforward. However, I noticed, on the video that he had a hard time removing the old washers, because they had corroded slightly. Kit, in the picture, did not include new washers.

Is this something I should pick up from a local auto parts store? Or just coat the old ones with WD-40 and reuse?


Edited to add while I was writing that post, my rear Bilstein B8-5100’s arrived so I can install those at the same time. I didn’t realize they were B8’s. if I remember correctly, those are two steps above the factory. Hope it’s not extremely stiff on the road

 

It looks like they used flange nuts in the kit, which is likely why there are no washers. This is common practice in metal-heavy applications. Don't use washers with flange nuts, and for a fun learning adventure, go read up on how flange nuts work. Treat u-bolts (and their hardare) like a 1-2 use item, and discard if you ever find some bent, or threads clearly stretched or affected by corrosion.

You don't plan on towing or hauling much of anything heavy, right?

Make sure you get the bushing-washer order correct on the shocks before going in - there are topics here covering that. It'll be easier to knock blocks and shocks out at same time. It's all pretty pedestrian work.

 

that’s what I suspected about those nuts. I’m not the most educated so I didn’t know they were called flange nuts, but that’s why I took the picture with them because I had a suspicion they were not to be used with washers

I may be towing a travel trailer in the future. That was part of my discussion with Josh at 1stgenoffroad. It would be no more than 3000 to 3500 pounds. if I remember correctly, Toyota rated this truck to pull up to 6700 pounds. But still most of the time I will not be hauling or towing anything

 

It's more axle wrap I'd be worried about, seeing you're installing blocks, but I don't think those are tall enough to even contribute to the problem with these trucks. I've only had to deal with that on the inverse, primarily on GM trucks.

Just something to keep eyes on once you start hauling.

 

a blessing and a curse: I got stuck, trying to get the shocks off. I thought I already had the top bolt loose on the rear shocks, but it was just spinning around.

Apparently I missed that on the first video I watched and I’ve never done shocks before

so I picked up this tool I saw on another tutorial. I might be able to get it to work, but it would be helpful to get the spare tire out of the way. that’s when I found out part of my Jack is missing. It has been many years since I used it and I had to replace mine with one from my salvage yard I have no idea how I did not end up with all the parts in my truck

at least I found out now instead of when I had a flat on the road

is there anything else I substitute to turn the thingamajiggy to lower the spare?

I am aware many end up grinding off the top of the shock. I’m not sure if my grinder will fit up there, especially with the spare in the way

 

So wait, you don't have the little black baggie full of parts that goes with the OEM jack?

Just crack the top nut off the top of the shock dude. Use a nutsplitter. Or a Dremel with a cutoff disk, just don't dig into your frame by accident.

Or if you have an angle grinder, cut the plastic boot off the shock to expose the shock rod. Grind a flat into the center of the shock body so you can grip it with vice grips and prevent spinning, then just whip the top nut off.

If you have no intent on re-using the old shocks, do anything you can to stop the center post of the shock from spinning and you're free to whip the nut off the top.

 

Thanks I’m tired I didn’t even think of that. my angle grinder can definitely do that


is there anything that can be used to lower the spare tire? Not sure I will have time to track an OEM jack down

mine quit working about a decade to go and I ordered a replacement from a junkyard. Like I said, I have no idea how I ended up without all of the parts but I’m glad I found out now

 

I replaced my shocks with spare tire installed. Go at the top nut via the gap between the bed and framerail using a flat wrench, ideally wratcheting.

For the tool kit, check this. The OEM tool looks like what's in #8 reply but I'm pretty sure that thread links to a kit on scAmazon that works. (Southpaw's reply # 20, Dorman part number 926-782) https://www.tundras.com/threads/spare-tire-rod.94260/

 

Thanks. Just ordered one so I will have it in time for my trip

 

Post up pics when completed. What lift are you running up front?

 

What about tightening down the new ones? Can you get enough torque without it spinning?

I guess the obvious answer is yes, but considering that my top nut was not exactly, bound or frozen, it does make me wonder

 

Yes. Look in the top of the 5100's shaft. It's allen-keyed

Start the nut, slide your wrench over the post, lock in your allen wrench, and hold the allen wrech while tightening the nut. Don't overtighten. Just to the point you start to engage the bushings. Before lift, that was about 5 threads showing on my truck. After 2" lift it was more like 2-3 threads showing. YMMV, @Jack McCarthy would probably tell you you should've pre-compressed.

And again, the washer/bushing order is important!

I used an 18" piece of copper tubing I often utilize as a breaker bar to hold the allen wrench in place.

 

The kit in the picture. I’m just doing 1 inch but it is adjustable I believe up to 3 inches maybe a little more.

i’m gonna see how I like this 1 inch and then when I get tires and wheels next year I’ll decide if I want to raise it another inch. but this will probably be enough since the tires I’m going to get are a little over an inch and a half half taller so at that time it’ll be a total of almost 3 inches

I believe any higher with the suspension then you have to get other parts to compensate for the lift.

 

that was OK for the driver side. The passenger side is giving me fits. I’ve got it broken loose, but I can only get a few clicks on the ratchet wrench each turn. I can still see so many threads I feel like it’ll take me a half a day ha ha

I already have the new rear lift installed and torqued down. Just have to get this passenger side, shock off, and then install the new ones

 

These new U-bolts and nuts are quite a bit beefier. I believe the originals were either 17 or 19 mm and the new ones are 21 if I’m not mistaken

 

Yep; normal. And a good thing.

 

any suggestions on the nut for the top of the passenger rear shock? I’m guessing about my only option is to go buy some longer ratchet wrenches

 

I remember the passenger side was worse, but I always start on the passenger side with everything. Habit I guess?

No clue what to say other than "if it offends thee, cut it off"

Oh and "hang in there!"

 

I am. I’m going to wait to do the timing belt replacement until after my trip, so I’m not so pressed for time. Then I can start the timing belt when I’m fresh in 3-4 weeks.

the lower ball joints and front/rear shock replacement was the most pressing need

 

I hope that's just a generic picture they used because what's pictured there is not for a first gen. Front struts are the newer style.
Did you get those preassembled or do you have to put the springs on yourself?

 

Good catch I didn’t even really look closely at the picture.

they came in Saturday and it is the correct ones. Yes I got them preassembled

 

Finally got the passenger rear off. That was a war comprising several different battles.

there is no way to get a power saw in there of any kind. It’s so tight

after I got it a little loose yesterday, it seemed to get tighter this morning, even though it was still gooped with a gel-based WD-40 so I started with a hacksaw, and made some good progress, even though it was killing my shoulder

Then I created this Frankenstein. my hacksaw blade fit in my reciprocating saw. Definitely would not pass OSHA standards, but you could hold it it just right with the right amount of pressure and it did work Finally a few turns with the ratchet wrench, and it popped off





I will definitely get the worst over and do the passenger side first on the installation of the new shocks

 

I searched, but I only found three posts and they didn’t address this



I did find a YouTube, see the still shot below, that referenced a sleeve. I guess that is a different set up because mine does not have one nor does it appear to need one








Also, I just realized it did not have a nut and bolt for the lower mount. Was I supposed to use the factory? I find that odd since most everything else you replace I know I saved one but not sure I saved both I guess I can go diving in my trash bin, but would rather have new ones


Edited to add even Josh at 1stgenoffroad could find no documentation on the order. so I’m about to try to call Bilstein as he recommended

 

can’t get through to Bilstein directly. You have to wait for an email reply I suppose

there are two chrome colored washers, one black metal washer, and 2 bushings

one of the chrome washers is thicker than the other. The thinner of the 2 also has a flange and it’s opening is slightly larger. It appears to be intended to be paired with the black washer that fits more snug on the shock post just like the thicker washer

 

I finally found this on the Bilstein academy website




so I believe it goes:

shock
black thicker washer
bushing
thin chrome washer with the flange
Truck frame
bushing
topped off by the chrome thicker washer
Nut

 

Yup -> https://www.tundras.com/threads/rea...shing-nut-stack-up.124853/page-2#post-3203778

Lots of other good tips in the thread I'm linking with regard to pre-loading things.

 

There are two projects I’ve done in my life that brought extreme satisfaction, I learned a lot, but I’ll be damned if I ever do them again.

One was painting the entire exterior of my house 20 years ago.

The second was this project, putting on a 1 inch lift and replacing my rear shocks

but it is done and my concerns over it being too stiff are gone. I guess with my old shocks being so worn out (304,000 miles) these feel great!


And a big thank you for all of the assists

 

Just triple checking here. The torque for the U-bolts that hold leaf springs to rear axle.

the more I read more conflicting information I see

I’ve read 74, 96, and over 100

i’ve read 74, 96, and over 100 ft/lbs. I’m still having a hard time locating the most appropriate threads in this forum,

 

Looks like 98 ft lbs



sorry, @shifty` I don’t trust myself. Just want to triple check