Seafoam in crankcase

I know there are a lot of strong feelings both ways on this, but I've read enough to feel comfortable so I gave it a try.

I have been using a full synthetic for many years but stocked up on the premium high mileage synthetic version (long overdue I know) which promises to keep the engine clean(er) along with Toyota OEM oil filters. I'm going to show my age and say that today was my first oil change in 40 years.

I added 6 oz of Seafoam to the crank case just over 350 miles ago. I was not expecting what I got. The oil on the dipstick didn't look too bad. I checked it about every 50 or 75 miles to keep an eye on it




I don't know if I should feel good or bad after draining the oil but wow, it looked like black crude




I'm going to rinse and repeat and change the oil much more often the next few times and see if it improves



any other experiences?

 

This is every damn time for me (w/Seafoam), and I make a point of taking a 15-20 mile drive before changing my oil so it gets all the sludge up in suspension for when I drain.

I (can, but also can't) wait to take my driver side valve cover off again and see the heads a nice bronze color versus the near-black-shella-varnish color it was from the previous owner's cheapskatery.

Seafoam legitimately cleans out the crankcase, but it a non-aggressive way. It seems to be a bit more casual/gentle than BG EPR and LiquiMoly, although I'd probably use EPR in a pinch for the same reason, and would be open to alternating every other OC if EPR was more readily available.

Wish my snake cam did better with low-light so I could get a more accurate view of what the driver side head looks like now.

 

I was so mixed on doing the Seafoam and higher detergent oil before getting a look under those valve covers before I started this, but just didn't have time to get a camera, etc. Way too many irons in the fire

Also troubleshooting a vibration that starts around 40 and is annoying as hell driving down the interstate. Not horrible just annoying. tires and wheels have been repeatedly checked. When I first put them on, they were smooth as silk.

 

Carrier bearing? U-joint?

 

I'll throw this out there. My oil changes were normal. Oil out, old oil into plastic containers, recycle at work. Nothing looked abnormal.

then I used seafoam and the Valvoline restore and protect a few times.

my oil change looked normal, but after I poured the old oil out of the catch container, there was an immense amount of sludge on the bottom of the pan I was using.

I honestly do believe the sea foam and restore and protect helped remove a lot of that from my 275k mile motor.

I don't know if anything "improved" but it's nice knowing my engine is that much cleaner than it was, therefore (in theory) should run more efficiently.

 

I replaced the whole driveshaft with new Spicer u-joints and a new carrier bearing

no one would fess up to it, but one of the machine shops mauled my driveshaft, and it had to be replaced.

After all of that, it was much better and the clunk was gone. I had a vibration and also if I let off the gas at Highway speeds and let the Auto drop then hit the accelerator again. There was a big clunk that you could feel.

Again the clunk went away and the vibration was much better. I'm pretty sure there were two sources or so it seems.

The only other thing I did at about that time was the brakes and flushed the brake fluid New calipers pads etc. I did not like the brake pads they put on before and The rotors were already warped Which I was able to correct for the most part

after that brake change, it was smooth as silk and still is. However, is there such a thing as the rotors being out of balance?

 

dammit. That reminds me that I meant to pour it into another container through a paper filter to see if I find any chunks.

I'll do that next time. There were none apparent this time.

After reading several reviews that put it in the top 3 or 4 on the market
I'm using that Valvoline premium restore and protect as well. There was not much difference in the top 4 as I recall but after that there was a drop off





I still can't get over how much quieter the engine is since the timing belt change which I believe was due to the pulleys

I don't think the before and after videos do it justice. It is so much quieter. With the hood closed I've had several people say damn that's quieter than my new car

after oil change

https://youtu.be/H_KDdhV_n0k?si=K3foSWWcgiGoLXD_

With hood closed

https://youtu.be/jyiRW5Tl1Tk?si=U-WSOmiyR-mEmqHo


Before full timing belt change including new water pump, tb tensioner and pulleys, serpentine tensioner and pulleys, radiator, thermostat, serpentine belt, etc:


https://youtube.com/shorts/rzO7by-pRCQ?si=EfifL16s--50OElF

 

What exactly is Seafoam cleaning in the crankcase? It must be something not in suspension. Wouldn't the dirt be better off out of suspension where it isn't doing harm than broken loose, suspended in the oil and getting pumped around the oiling system until drained?

 

That's why I say it is controversial
Many disagree with using that type of product for the very reasons you brought up

I didn't see any chunks or bits of sludge in my oil

So what's better? Just let it keep building up until the oil is totally blocked or then a super large block of sludge breaks loose?

that is the big debate

My opinion is that the motor oils for older engines have detergents in them and detergents are also present in much of the gas we buy so for me personally I think it's good to use something stronger in the fuel system and crank case periodically

 

I've wanted to try the BG ever since @The Black Mamba (RIP) had a few posts on it. I've just been feeding it the good synthetic on a short OCI.

 

I think if someone had an old very high-mileage truck/car that wasn't abused, but maybe 'neglected' and had significant build up inside . . . i could see where a Seafoam (or similar) treatment could 'perhaps' be a little risky for lack of a better word. Might be better to do a more 'gradual' clean, as opposed to a more aggressive 1 time treatment.

I will say, my Dads 2002 Chevy with the 4.8 motor w/ right at 100K miles had the notorious 'tick' at start up.
I started to research what it is/ was . . . and found it's a rabbit hole that I didn't want to go down.
I did a Seafoam treatment to the crankcase per instructions and the tick went away 100% . . . so it is does do something.
After a couple years, the tick has come come back very slightly, and is more evident after the truck hasn't been driven in days . . .but it's still much better.
I'm going to do it again on the next oil change.