Selecting 1st gen lift

So I’ve been wanting to lift my Tundra (2003 Limited 4WD Access Cab) for a long time but I can’t find the balance between performance off-roading lifts and my desired height. I want like a 3-4 inch lift so I can slap 33s on it, but a lot of the lift options are equipped with super nice struts, shocks, etc. While I would love to have top of the line parts I want to know it there’s any lift recommended that is pretty good off-road (I’m not super hardcore about it) but also somewhere in the 3-4 inch range. Any recommendations or info would be appreciated

 

Not really, no. 3+ inch lifts for a 1st gen tend to be less than ideal for serious off-roading. But if you’re just planning to cruise fire roads, no problem. Or you can spend good money for a coilover and HD springs upgrade (no spacers above the shocks!) and probably get close to what you want. Lots of asked and answered on this thread, plus a head start on finding other members with similar goals:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/hey-everybody-i’m-new-and-looking-fo-advice-for-my-2006-access-cab.92935/

 

Sweet thanks for the fast reply. I was also wondering about just throwing some lift blocks in like 3 inches, I love the ride I already have with my off road package, is blocks a good idea?

 

Nope, blocks are a terrible idea, in my opinion. They will kill everything you currently like about your ride comfort. And if you add them atop shocks and go off-road (or even get in a fender-bender, maybe), your shocks may collapse. If you’re running cheap shocks and want a lift more than you care about ride quality, blocks are the easiest, cheapest way to achieve that lift. But don’t invest in good coilover shocks then risk busting them by adding a block spacer to the top.

Of course, this is my opinion, but most on here that do any “real” off-roading agree. Maybe read through that ^ thread and then you can fine tune your questions after you prioritize the order of your two (in my opinion, kinda opposite) wishes, lift vs. off-road capability and comfort.

 

Basically I want a not super stiff ride(which I’ve been told big coilovers are not ideal for) if possible, and mainly just some clearance. I was reading through that other thread and came across someone saying get a nice off road capable small suspension lift kit then a 1-2” body lift kit. Now I personally don’t really like body lifts, I’m sure a lot of people here would agree but a small body lift could look good, but I don’t know.

Ive been looking at the 2.5in leveling kit from rough country, do you think that will work good with 33s? It’s not as big as I would like it to be but that might be the best option.

 

This isn't necessarily true. There's a few factors that will go into how a coilover rides such as the shock valving and spring rate of the coil. The Rough Country 2.5in leveling kit is the type of kit we recommend NOT to use. That is a spacer that goes on top of the current shock you have, so it won't do anything to make the ride better.

Your wheel and suspension won't gain any additional travel from a spacer. A spacer will actually limit your down travel and can potentially destroy the shock, since the bottom of the shock itself becomes the limit of the travel. With a shock spacer like the Rough Country kit, your shock will bottom out inside of itself before your lower control arms hit the bump stop on the frame. When that happens, you can get this:



My opinion is you're going to get a much rougher ride on the Rough Country level kit than on an adjustable coilover lift of any brand. Spacers are cheap for a reason, coilovers cost more for a reason.

33s can fit a 2-2.5" coilover lift with minimal to no rubbing, and my coilovers don't feel stiff. This is the route many on here go. You will want to consider aftermarket control arms as well with coilovers and 33s.

 

I doubt 33s work on a 2" lift. I've got 33.9 on a Toytec 3" and the mudflaps are gone, part of the side steps had to be trimmed back and I still get rubbing with -12 offset. Granted the tires are 11" wide, but I have a shiny spot on the frame from rubbing.

 

Thanks for all the info on coilovers. I might not have been clear enough and that’s my bad I was talking about the 2.5in leaving suspension lift kit not just the ones with blocks. It comes with struts and shocks, the whole deal. I talked to my local truck and toy guy and he said that would probably be the best option but now I’m more concerned about rubbing. I was reading about the TRD off-road package on my tundra and it said it comes with 1” lift stock, if I get a lift/leveling kit will it add to that 1” or will it just add 2.5 minus the 1” it already had? Might be a dumb question.

 

Ahh, do you mean like one of these two? Or perhaps you have a link to the deal you're looking at? I guess to further clarify, you're looking at a Rough Country kit that will also lift the rear end too?

https://www.rockymountainsusp.com/lift-kits/suspension/toyota/tundra/1999-06/75071-hk.html?c=351&i=0

https://www.rockymountainsusp.com/lift-kits/suspension/toyota/tundra/1999-06/75031-hk.html?c=351&i=0

For the front shocks, either of these would definitely be better than using the Rough Country spacer with your stock shocks and they should let you clear bigger tires. Can't speak for sure of the component quality or how they would ride though

The lift that comes on the TRD off-road package comes from the coils on the truck stock. They are a "heavier duty" coil with a higher spring rate.

If you buy one of the complete Rough Country coilover kits, you won't be re-using the stock coils, so theoretically you'd be gaining only 1.5" of lift from what you had before.

You could also buy a Bilstein 5100 shock and re-use your stock TRD off road coils to lift your truck in the front. I would look into that option as well; your truck and toy guy might know about that. They have different notches you set the coil at for the ride height. Off the top of my head, I know that @KNABORES among plenty others in the 1st gen sub-forum went that route.

Also, for tires, I wouldn't go bigger than 285/75/16 (32.8"x11.2"; essentially 33's).

 

Yep I have a set of 33 R18s I’m trying to clear. Let me link you to the rough country kit
https://www.roughcountry.com/toyota...h9Ch2XqgibEAQYASABEgKB3_D_BwE#256=611&154=587

I think we are looking at the same kit. I have the Lifted N3 Struts as my strut option selected and the V2 Monotubes as the shocks.
It’s a little pricey for me but as I look into this more I think it might be best to just get this one. Do you think the Nitro shocks would be pretty close than the V2 Monotubes? I would much rather pay 580 than 880 for not much of a better ride

 

Bing sent me a link to walmart for the same setup. Rough Country 2.5" Lift Kit (fits) 2000-2006 Tundra | N3 Shocks | Billet Suspension System | 75030 - Walmart.com
I'm currently thinking about going down to 33s and finding a wheel with more negative offset to help push the tires outward. Offset can really make a difference on what tire sizes you can use.

 

What offset will bring 285s a bit out past the fenders, I think that’s the look I’m going for after the lift

 

I can't speak for the 285s. I have 295s on Fuel Rebels with -12 offset. I was excited about the look at first, but when you're doing 60 and one of the rocks dislodges itself down the side of your truck it can get old.

 

Are you suggesting to go flush with the fenders as opposed to a little out?

 

If that's the look you want, go for it. Just choose a tread pattern that doesn't grab bigger rocks. I have Nitto Terra Grapplers and they pickup a handful of rocks on every rock driveway or parking lot

 

Yeah yours look great man, the treads I have shouldn’t grab giant rocks. Anyways, is it worth it to grab the V2 Monotube vs the nitro shocks?

 

I'm pretty sure the Monotube is the premium version of the N3. If I had to choose between the two I'd go for the V2 Monotube. You may never feel a difference between the two, but I feel aluminum is the way to go.

 

What really is the difference? Aluminum is weaker is it not?

 

My 17X8.5 are 0 offset and they are about an inch per side inside of that. Seems perfect. The calculator helps a ton.

 

Aluminum isn't necessarily weaker. It's lighter, so you can use more(thicker) aluminum to make it as strong as steel. Steel holds heat longer and rusts. Aluminum can corrode, but it takes something like a saltwater bath a few times to start the process.

 

If I live in an area where rust isn’t a problem what would your recommendation be?

Also someone mention a calculator that seems to be for offset measurements? Where could I find this?

 

I have 20x10 so it is wider just because of that.

 

I really don't think you'll suffer one way or the other. You can absolutely get the N3 and be fine.

 

This too (same site)

 

This happens a lot on here, guys with 2nd and 3rd gen trucks sharing what they did, or giving advice… that would be helpful to a later-gen owner, but which does not apply to a 1st gen truck.

OP, check posts closely before you get excited about big tires. As mentioned above by a 1st gen owner, 285’s are the largest tire you can “easily” (with cutting and pounding) fit under a 1st gen, without tubbing or other severe modifications to the frame, firewall, or body.

 

While I’m at it, I just want to confirm, you’re hoping to fit 18” wheels on your 1st gen?

Even if you found 18’s with the same 6 lug pattern as our 1st gens, you’ll probably experience clearance problems on the inside of the wheel, interference with brake calipers, whatever. I’ve only seen 16” or 17” wheels on 1st gens. Not saying it can’t happen….

 

FWIW The Darrell Waltrip 1st Gen Tundra came stock with BBS 18" Wheels. Really a good lookin wheel IMO . . . but I prob. won't ever buy a set because I'd have to go down on sidewall profile to maintain the same overall diameter as my stock 17" wheel/ tire combo, and I think the ride quality would suffer. I'd also imagine the 18" tires would be more pricey.

 

@Brynh here is the best possible reading material you will ever see on lifting a first gen. Break it into sections and go over it for a few days, you'll have a great understanding from there. @Sunnier that guy has a first gen as well.

You "can" fit a 285/75/16 or equivalent tire on a first gen with 2" of lift. Thats all I have, maybe less. To do this you need to trim or beat the pinch weld area back (near where the fender meets the door), trim the front bumper corners slightly (you'll never notice) and maybe remove front mud flaps. You also need the right width of wheel with the right amount of backspace.

18s tend to be wider than 16s, ideally you want an 8 wide wheel with 4-4.5" backspace, 4 is optimal. If you can find an 18 in that range go for it. If your goal is to fit a tire, don't get carried away with flush or not, be concerned with fitting. Fitting meaning you can turn lock to lock with your suspension fully stuffed and not hit anything.

 

All of this is true. 18 can fit, the ones on the DW edition are pretty skinny. Once you go lifting and changing the upper arm angle, and throwing a bigger tire on, most 18s can add some complications. I prefer little wheel and big tire, both for weight and comfort.