Should I use anti-seize on new spark plugs?

Should I use anti-seize when changing my spark plugs? I know that the newer Fords do not call for it due the makeup of the heads.

 

Skip the anti (IMO) and do the plugs on a cold engine.

 

Anti sieze for plugs, certainly.

 

If you're using NGK plugs, you don't need anti-seize. They have a "trivalent" coating, which basically acts as a sacrificial coating on the threads that performs the same anti-seize function.

I would expect most cars and plug designs nowadays don't require anti-seize regardless of NGK or otherwise.

 

Even if it's not required, I still put anti seize on. Can only help things, I don't see how it would be detrimental.

 

I was under the impression molydysufide and aluminum don't play well together. Aircraft piston engines require what looks like a black graphite solution. I use a very light coating of no ox grease on my plugs. Same stuff that's used on industrial battery connections.

 

Yes I use it, light film. All it takes is the mess of a couple broken plugs trying to remove them for you to wish you had used it before.

 

If you antiseize, and those are aluminum threads, tone down your torque specs. But i have kopper kote.

 

I usually do (old habits) but the NGK plugs have a coating as someone already said.

 

I'm simply curious as to why changing plugs on a 19 already? Yota recommends at 130K.

 

practice.

 

Good point

 

Could be climate dependent as well. People in high heat locations could benefit from hot weather performance going one step down in heat ranges - cooler plug (as are installed with supercharged setups).

 

Possibly, but haven't seen hot or cold locale issues regarding early plug change in almost 7+ years here. Stock configuration of course....the OEM Iridium's are pretty versatile.

 

To much anti seize can cause preignition. As long as your not dipping them in AS, id put 2c-hairs worth and that’s it.

 

On the two firewall plugs.

I've been doing Toyota plugs since 1987. 9 vehicles. Have never used anti-seize and have never had a plug fail to come out.

 

It's not really an issue you'll see. With ambient temps at 120F, HVAC at full blast, drive off from heat soak going uphill for 5-7 miles towing 6500lbs - a cooler plug will perform better.

 

Are you trading it in or selling before next 100k miles? = whatever floats your boat.

Are you keeping it forever? = no antiseize. Torque to factory spec (any reputable brand) clean and dry.

If wet then less torque is required, risk of spark plug contamination. If you can't get a plug out if this head it was overtorqued. This ain't a triton 5.4.

 

Regardless of what a sparkplug is going into a little antisieze on the threaded portion can't hurt and might actually help.
Edit: If your old school! See post below!

 

From the Denso (Toyota's recommended plug for the Tundra) spark plugs manufacturer's installation instructions. See their admonition toward the bottom (my bold and underline).

SPARK PLUG Installation
It is necessary to install the plugs in the engine using the correct torque. Note that if the torque is too low, the plugs are liable to work loose due to leakage of combustion gas or vibration, resulting in possible damage to the engine and the plugs. Conversely, if the torque is too high, the crimping between the insulator and the housing is liable to become loose, causing the integrity of the seal to be impaired or the mounting screw thread to break.

1. Use the correct wrench that matches the hex part of the plug. Take care not to damage the insulator.
2. When carrying out this work, take steps to ensure that oil, dust and foreign objects in the vicinity of the cylinder head do not enter the engine.
3. Before installing the plug, clean the mounting seat on the engine side, check that there is a gasket, and then insert the plug into the mounting seat.
4. When carrying out this work, hold the plug vertically, and then lightly tighten it by hand or by using a plug wrench.
   
5. Next, using a plug wrench, tighten the plug to the recommended torque or the recommended angle indicated in the table below.
   

If you tighten the plug to a greater rotation angle or torque than that indicated in the table below, the engine may become damaged or the screw thread of the plug may break, so be careful.

If you apply grease or another screw thread lubricant to the threaded part of the plug, you are liable to tighten the plug to an excessive degree, impairing the integrity of the seal, even if you apply no more than the recommended torque. For this reason, do not coat the plug with screw thread lubricant.

If you apply the plug wrench obliquely, an unreasonable force may be applied to the insulator, causing it to crack, as indicated in the figure below. For this reason, be careful not to hold the wrench obliquely.

 

Yep this why the Fords don't want it the spark plug threads are delicate. That said I usually use a little silver anti-seize on plugs, I put NGKs in my classic Volvo and did not use anti-seize cause they will come out in a year anyway.

 

Never, ever would I wait until 130K miles to change plugs.

 

I'm guilty as charged. I did them at 69,607 miles.

 

I changed my plugs on my 07 at 98K. A waste of time. Plugs looked new. I changed my plugs on my 14 at 120K. Plugs looked new but closer to 130K so not a total waste of time.

 

Ive got the plugs i pulled out in boxes in a toolbox in case i need spares.

fluids, filters, and plugs, are first on my list anytime i get anything.

 

Did you buy those trucks new? If not the mileage on the plugs obviously could be questioned. Just a thought.

 

Had full service records on both. Both owners kept meticulous records on Tundra owners site. Both dealer serviced. I have no doubt the plugs were original on both. My 07 only had 44K on it. The 14 had 104K. The 14 was owned by a contractor in N Dakota. Well maintained truck. No plug changes ever noted on both.. Why change them? Yota recommends 130K which is typical for quality Iridium's. Want to add that I was the 2nd owner for both. I always ask for the service records.

 

Just replaced the plugs in my truck with 113k. Used Kano Kroil and the plugs loosened up nicely and came out with no issue. Don’t use anti-seize and if you ever have issues in the future getting them out, spray some Kroil down there and come back the next day.

 

I know on my Mercruiser 496 that folks are really back and forth on putting anything on iridium spark plugs. If any gets on the firing end of the plug many anti-sieze formulations will help kill spark jump across the gap and sometimes result in a dead plug. So if you do put it, put just a little dab.

 

Kroil is gods gift to men stuff is awesome