Spark plug differences

90919-01166 VS
90919-01235

I looked at a parts catalog that says the 01166 is the part number for 2000-2004 V8 Tundras, and the 01235 is for 2005-2006 V6 Tundras.

I have a 2002 Tundra that had the frame recall done. While in for that service, they replaced many things, including the spark plugs. The part number listed for what they ordered and installed is 90919-01235.

But the parts catalog I saw says those are for the 05-06 V6’s. Are they interchangeable? If not, why would Toyota use the wrong plug?

Thanks.

 

I know it says ‘04, but ‘00-‘04 are pretty much the same past the throttle body.

in another thread, mrbadwrench said his truck preferred the larger gap of the 5vz plugs. But i dont have any experience with that, i replaced mine with the same plugs that came out.

 

Perhaps it was a simple mistake on the invoice. I suggest pulling a plug and see what mfg/# they put in and then go from there. IIRC, the SR5 came with 3.4L V6 or 4.7L V8. Which do you have, which will make a difference in part selection.

 

I’m sorry, I think I mistakenly assumed it would be known that it was a V8 for some reason. I’ll have to pull a plug later, but if the gap is different, that makes me concerned that there could be other differences that could affect things. (Heat rating, how far the plug sits in, etc).

 

I think maybe the fact that it’s a TRD model made me assume that it would be a V8. Could you get the TRD package with a V6?

 

4.7
https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/DENSO_PN/K20R-U

3.4
https://www.sparkplugs.com/denso-3194-k16tr11-multi-ground-spark-plug

Thread reach is the same. 3.4 uses dual ground straps.

 

Good to know that they have the same thread reach. Thanks.

Not sure what difference dual ground straps make?

 

According to the 02 brochure, the Access Cab SR5 came Standard with a V6 for 4x2 and 4x4. The V8 was an available option. The TRD Package could be added to V6 4x4 but not 4x2. Hence the question about what engine size.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-tundra-brochures.91566/

 

Nice, thanks for the info Bubba!

 

The plugs in the truck are what was described on the invoice: Part #90919-01235, Denso K20HR-U11, for the 05-06 V6 Tundra. I couldn’t find my sliding gap ring but I had the other kind that had .040 and .044. The .040 fit and the .044 almost fit so they are probably the .043 gap that those plugs are supposed to be.

I have never put this truck on the road. It had only been started and moved a handful of times since having the recall done including these plugs. It ran smooth and then I started it the next time and it shook a lot and the check engine light came flashing on. 4 cylinders were misfiring.

Now that warmer air is here, I’m checking into it. So 4 of the ignition coils had a white dot on them, so I wondered if maybe that meant they were bad. So I was going to order new coils. The ones in there look original (Toyota 90919-02230 Denso Made in Japan). Truck has 200,001mi.

But now that I found this spark plug discrepancy, I might just try closing the gap to .031 like the right plugs are, and see what I get. Then maybe buy the right plugs if it works.

When I took these plugs out, there was fuel in between the electrodes, where the spark occurs. Now that I’ve found that I have plugs with a ~39% larger gap, I’m wondering if the spark couldn’t keep up with the amount of fuel coming at it.

I’m still on my journey of learning about cars, but this seems logical. So I’m going to try closing the gap the next chance I get, before spending $55 a pop plus tax on Denso coils from rock auto.

 

I did a Google search on what symptoms you get with too large of a gap, and it was basically what I have: wet plugs and misfiring. I wound up calling the dealership who did the recall work, and they have the right plugs. So I’m going to pick them up tomorrow and will also ask them how and why they put the v6 plugs in with the larger gap.

 

Aren't the v6 plugs dual electrode or is that only 00-04? Can those even be gapped?
Edit- I think I'm getting myself mixed up here. Are you saying the truck is a v6 or they put the spark plugs for a v6 in it? I'm now thinking it's the latter.

 

It’s a V8. They put V6 plugs in, which I believe are for 05-06 year V6’s. I only see one negative electrode - they look like “normal” spark plugs.. I’ve never seen a spark plug that has more than one ground.

edit - well I googled it and now I’ve seen dual ground straps. It seems the 2000-2004 v6 tundra got dual ground strap spark plugs but got single ground spark plugs in 05-06 - but the gap seems to be .043 for both styles of v6 spark plugs.

 

Well I just got the right plugs from the dealership, and not only is the gap larger on the v6 plugs, but the thread reach is longer too on the later V6 plug. These are the spark plug differences I’ve found for early Tundras:

‘00-‘04 V6 K16TR11: .043 gap, 19mm thread reach, dual ground
‘00-‘04 V8

$4 K20R-U Denso 3122 Spark Plug

K20R-U: .031 gap, 19mm thread reach, single ground
‘05-‘06 V6 K20HR-U11: .043 gap, 26.5mm thread reach, single ground

So not only was this poor engine trying to jump a 39% larger gap, but it was also trying to fire 39% deeper into the combustion chamber, over a 1/4”! I’m surprised it ran smooth for any amount of time.

Does anyone know if that extra 1/4” protrusion would have made it get hit by the piston or valves?

And I don’t have time today to do the work, but perhaps it is fate that I do it tomorrow. May the 4th be with me and my Toy Yoda

 

This was the 1st thought that crossed my mind when I saw that. "HOLY SHIT! BORE SCOPE TIME!" and wondering what kind of damage the dealership's mistake just cost you. I hope they refunded you on the old plugs!

But then I realized ... if that piston head was making any contact with that plug, the gap on the ground electrode would be closed onto the center electrode. Those ground electrodes bend easy with the kind of force a piston outputs.

In that light, maybe a bore scope isn't needed. I can't think of anything that would be damaged if the end of the plug isn't mashed down.

 

Nice, thank you shifty for that insight. I guess I should have been able to come to that conclusion but I’m running around right now (just got the plugs, now just got antiseize, and now I gotta go see my baby before work) and not fully critically thinking I suppose. But that makes sense, and thank you for pointing it out for me so that I’m aware of it sooner than I would have been on my own!

 

Appears to be somewhat more than a 1/4 but hard to tell without measuring. In any case, given the design of the 2UZ concave heads and piston cavity, there was room for longer plug IMHO. I do however believe it was awful close to bumping into each other, causing possible damage. I'd personally be having a word with the dealer concerning wrong plugs and possible issues that could have occured..

2UZ concave head and piston from google....

 

Geez. Thank you for the pictures. It looks like it may have just missed the piston head! I think it might have hit if either the head wasn’t concaved, or the piston heads weren’t “dished”, thank God both had recesses in them! Still makes me want to scope it.

 

You gotta swap plugs anyway, if you've got a scope, only takes a second longer.

 

I don’t have a scope. And I changed one bank before work and plan to do the other side when I get out of work because it’s going to rain tomorrow where I live. I wonder if I can see in there with a flashlight and at least see the top of the piston heads.

These guys changed so many parts that now I’m a little bit worried about the quality of the rest of their work. How do they miss something like this ya know?

When I was in the dealership, I asked about getting a dip stick and tube, and he said he had to order it. He said he could get it and gave me a price but then the guy said wait a minute, the VIN “jumped,” and the computer thought we were looking for parts for a V6. Then he said that they can’t get the dipstick or tube for the V8 anymore, so he canceled that order. I thought that was weird. What the heck does he mean “the VIN jumped” heh.

These are the parts I know that they changed, not including bolts:

Frame
Lower control arms
Shock mounts
Front sway bar bushings & links

Body mounts
Rear shocks
Shackles
Spare tire holder

Spark plugs
Alternator
Serpentine belt

Steering shaft
Power steering lines
Power steering rack

Fuel pump
Fuel Filter
Fuel lines
Gas tank straps

Front brake pads
Front brake rotors
Front brake calipers
All brake lines

 

Crap turds. Didn’t work. Crank crank crank no start. Maybe thought I heard it try slightly for a millisecond or two, but no start

 

So in essence you have worked on a few things since it last ran smooth.

You got new plugs from dealership and gapped or checked gap for .031. Any other changes made since it ran smooth ?

Things to consider....
1 ) Make sure ignition coils are plugged in properly
2 ) Undo battery to reset codes and place battery on charger if not sure of it's condition
3 ) While battery disconnected, clean MAF and Throttle body with CRC TB/MAF cleaner....how to help can be advised if needed or you tube cleaning tundra TB/MAF
4 ) check underhood ground points for tightness and cleanliness.

One other question....you earlier mentioned misfiring. Does this mean you have a code reader or took it somewhere to check/clear codes ?

 

I have a scanner but it is currently misplaced. And, when I put the ignition coils into the spark plug tubes, they didn’t seem to pop onto the plugs - I didn’t feel a positive connection happening. But I just put them in and torqued their bolts to 5ft lbs.

I did disconnect battery and charged it. Also, we sprayed carb cleaner (I can go look what it actually was) into the intake before I found this spark plug issue, and it tried starting.

 

Seems my kid has the scanner in his car.

 

Says 0 codes. But, it hasn’t ran since disconnecting the battery. Also, I’m not hearing the fuel pump kick on when I turn the key to the on position. The c/opn relay looks new, and the related fuses look good. Maybe I “burned out” the fuel pump while continuously trying to start the truck until the battery died?

 

I actually just heard a “whirring” noise right after I stopped trying to start it.

 

Fuel pump runs when in "start" position. Keeps running if truck starts or turns off if it doesn't.

 

Awesome, thank you for that insight. I just threw some gas in it. Fingers crossed heh

 

Negative ghost rider. Crank no start. The 4th was not with me

 

I used a test light on the fuses and everything checked out except headlights and AC which I’m guessing I may have to switch on for those to light up.

I pulled a plug and it was wet between the electrodes just like the other plugs. I’m going to try grounding the ground strap on a metal part of the truck and see if I get any spark. Will have to try tomorrow. It’s too late to crank the engine me thinks