SPC upper control arm

So I got these installed today the correct way with the SPC logo facing out and after an alignment and driving the driver side ball joint is in a different position? Is this normal and should I drive it? There seems to be a clunk when hitting something while turning left. Here’s passenger side

Driver side :

 

Who installed everything?

What letter position is the balljoint clocked at, per the instructions? (instructions recommend "D" if I recall...)

Did you install extended swaybar links?

Did you replace the cam bolts/sleeves during the upgrade?

 

I did, I set them both at B for 3.75 degrees of caster.
I did install extended sway bar links by suspension max but I think I put them on wrong. I was pressed for time and bolted the bottom links on without trying to space the link in the center of the bushings.
I replaced the lower arms with OEM and just replaced the sleeves but reused the bolt and nut/eccentric

 

Do you need extended swaybar links? I recently installed SPC UCAs too but only replaced the control arms, nothing else you mentioned.

 

Anything over 1.75" - 2" lift, it seems, you probably want to. I can sit here and link threads all day long where using stock length swaybar links cause an array of problems, but it's late, and I'm feeling lazy. This is generally what you'll see from others. Clunks, thunks, limited travel, blown link bushings, fixed after a lift by moving to an extended link. Here's the most recent case of a win from upgrading I can recall. I'm sure some people are, like, "shifty if full of shit", but ... plenty of proof is here if you dig.

With how little they cost, less than ~5% what most people spend on their entire suspension, I feel like it's a no-brainer.

 

I will 100% be ordering new ones! Seems like an easy job, and the ones on my truck look worn TF out. When replacing my control arms those were the only other entity in my front suspension that caught my eye as something that made me go, "Ehhhhhh I should replace that." They just seem to be back-ordered everywhere currently. Thanks almighty shifty.

 

@shifty`

 

So, a few things here. I'm glad you re-bumped that comment, I missed it.

One, I think I misunderstood while reading - the balljoint jumped from the position it was in to another position? This is exactly why the shop I'd been talking to locally while trying to decide what I wanted told me they don't like to use SPC, they swear (at least with the older design) they've seen it happen more than once. Couple things about that, though ...

First, I'm pretty sure the instructions say to use "D" position for 2-3" lift. Maybe I'm wrong (nope - here's the latest instructions, clearly says "D" clock setting returns to factory caster for trucks w/2-3" lift..) Why'd you choose "B" position, are you not going 2-3" like most others, or you have some reason to use an other-than-factory caster?

Anyway, at install, they recommend clocking at "D" with the serrated plate/star plate/whatever, torquing down the the top nut while the BJ is at the center of the UCA's slot, lower the car, check alignment, and then when it's time to dial-in the camber, you can loosen the top nut and slide the top of the BJ in the slot to dial in, before torquing to spec again. Unless my reading comprehension sucks.

Second, the instructions changed sometime in 2019-2020ish, if memory serves, a major change in how they're installed. On the older instruction/design, the steering knuckle insert installed from the top. In the more recent instruction/design, it installs from the bottom. This ended up biting @Tundra2 in the ass a while back, I think because he used older/newer instructions when he actually had newer/older arms, one of those combos. He had to buy new lockrings or something. Did you possibly install wrong, make the same mistake he did? Did you fully press the insert into the knuckle so the ring will seat fully?

Third, on the lockring topic, during install, you need to pay special attention to the lockring on that sleeve to make sure it's actually seated, firmly. I saw at least one video of someone installing SPC arms where they didn't confirm it was seated fully on one side, and theirs jumped eventually too, hell if I can find it.

Last, I'm not sure entirely how the BJ could've jumped position with the new design, unless the top nut on the BJ wasn't properly torqued after setting camber utilizing the elongated slot in the UCA -or- the shop who aligned it f'ed up, didn't understand you can fine-tune camber using the slot on the UCA w/o touching the clocking of the star plate, or they couldn't achieve what was necessary because you clocked at "B" instead of "D" initially.

Full disclosure: I have yet to install mine, and I openly admit this, but I've dealt with similar products enough times I feel pretty confident speaking to it. Granted, it's not like I work at SPC, and don't do this for a living. I'm just not seeing how it could possibly jump to a new setting if everyone involved with install/alignment followed the directions, unless someone failed to torque the top nut after dialing things in.

First thing I'd do is check the torque on that top nut, make sure it's at the recommended 150ftlb. If not, that may be your issue right there, maybe the person aligning didn't torque, or didn't understand the design of this UCA? And if it wasn't, I'd be marching back up to the alignment shop and making them re-align you, because something probably slipped. But I'd only do that after re-clocking the BJ, unless you had a reason to use B instead of D.

 

PS - if you want to re-visit your install, Josh @ 1stgenoffroad has a solid video for 1st gens but it shows the old style install, inserting the knuckle insert from the wrong way, i.e. opposite the current SPC design/install method. If you need to know the proper orientation for yours, refer to the instruction sheet in your box. I haven't watched this video close enough to point out what I'd do different - everyone's got an opinion, I'm no different - but maybe it helps somehow, I'm jumping to the knuckle insert @ 27m04s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2unFVNRry8#t=27m03s

 

Yes, it was in a different position from when I installed. I have the newer version and my instructions said to go from the bottom up for the knuckle adapter. They were also 100% torqued to 150 ft/lbs before and after alignment. I watched that video from josh and he said that he would set it to position A even though he did D in the video. I also wanted for caster b/c the bigger tires I got. Im starting to think I misinterpreted the directions of how to position the ball joint. I lined up the star plate how it shows in position B but stuck the ball joint in with the SPC logo (flat part) facing out as it shows in the diagram. The diagram seems to be representing the D setting. Can anyone confirm that? I think I screwed that up. I was curious why the instructions have the 'Front of Vehicle' shown lol. I definitely pressed the adapter in fully and got the snap ring completely seated.

 

@Tundra2 can you answer this?:

 

Both or my trucks are in the position D location i think? The SPC loyo on the joint should be facing outwards with that setting.

I'm ruzzy

 

SPC logo facing out and ball joint turned one position 'towards the rear', is the go to starting point.

Towards the rear means you give more clearance for the ball joint and coil spring/strut/coilover.


Your current settings are way off. Pic of alignment specs?

 

Okay so I got in there and fixed that. Holy shit I can’t believe that star plate was just chillin out of place on the arm this whole time. Explains why it just shifted around like that. It feels way better, I placed the ball joint into position C like you said, one position towards the rear. Here is my instructions (terrible explanation of how that thing should be set up, I assumed the SPC logo always faced how it’s shown in the picture (yes I’m also a noob))


here was my alignment sheet, any recommendation for camber/caster degrees for my setup? Going back for another one tomorrow

 

Did the exact same thing when I installed my SPCs. Finished up, dropped the truck off the jackstands, then noticed the star plate was completely perpendicular to its necessary positioning. Finishing a shitshow job, cleaning up, then having to do something over again is the WORST. It's all learning though

 

-0.3 camber
2.6-2.8 caster
.15-.20 total toe in (.07-.10 per side)

 

This good for 2 inch lift? I have 6112s up front and 5160s in the back. What are the higher caster numbers for?

 

Yes. Good for any height.

Higher numbers than stock for better road manners.

 

I got a noob question for anyone that might have some insight. I just ordered a set of replacement bushings for a set of SPC UCA’s I picked up second hand (the ball joints were shot, so while they were off the truck I figured I’d replace them all).

My question is, the spec ride bushings come with 4 washers, but in the SPC install instructions it states to only use two of the washers. Am I missing something?

TYIA

 

Is this for your 2021? I think the design is probably different from the 2000-2006 Tundra, which is the subforum you're posting in right now.

 

Crap, my bad, I didn't realize, i just searched SPC UCA and this came up. Thanks for the heads up.