Speaker sizes

Actual speaker sizes for the Tundra? I know Crutchfield and a lot of places say “it fits” then come to find you need some dumb ass spacers or some dumb $hit to make it fit. Is there a list anywhere of the actual sizes?

 

Theses are correct. To make it easy I bought two sets of Image Dynamics CXS64 for front and to keep it simple from Sonic Electronics. I ran them as a coaxial in the rear and component up front with tweeter in the sail panel. The ********* adapters and screws are crucial for proper image and do some dampening behind whatever speaker you go with. The 6.5” will sound better than a 6x9” or a 5x7”. You can mount the tweeters up front in the dash if you want instead of the sail panel or go with a 3” driver. I take it you don’t have JBL? There are many 6.5” coaxial and component options out there to meet you budget. You don’t need the center speaker. I just disconnected mine. Any questions message me. Also check out my media page.

 

If you don’t want to buy a spacer then take the stock out, get 3/4” birch plywood, spray/brush a sealer, and cut them out. You can do this buy removing stock speaker and trace the cutout/stock mounting holes. Then get mounting bolts from Lowes. A more expensive coat is Duratex.

 

Don’t have the JBL, just base system with Nav. I used to be huge into Audio. The last car I built was in 05, alpine deck and changer with ipod interface. MB Quart reference series amplifiers and MB Quart premium line 6.5 inch components front and rears. Also had a Rockford Fosgate 360.2 which was a 31 band eq with time delay and was controlled with a Palm Pilot thru bluetooth. At the time it was state of the art. Used all streetwires cables and 00 gauge power and ground, topped it off with a 5 Farad Stinger carbon cap. 800 on the sub and 200 per channel on the mids and highs. Kaption Audio pro 12” sub with 1” butyl surround (crazy stuff back then, now it’s normal)

Trying to see if there is good room for improvement without adding amps and a ton of stuff like in the past. Previous experiences always had aftermarket speakers sounding very weak due to weak power from factory system.

 

Done that many times back in the day! Was the only way to get speakers to fit right.

 

Yeah I’ve wasted countless dollars. That’s why I gave the Taco Tunes a go and pieced it out cheaper. MB Quartz ain’t what they used to be. They used to be Dang good for SQ. You could start with the ********* harness and Audiocontrol DSP/amp. Use stock wires or just run your own.

 

I love some old school gear! I had all Infinity Kappa Perfects before they changed manufacturing, an all Kenwood, All Alpine, all HAT, all JL, and Pioneer IMPP. In many different cars.

 

If you had all that in the past, you are going to be hard pressed to find any satisfaction, without at least adding an amp.
There are relatively inexpensive (<$1500) solutions, but they almost all add amps and speakers/subs.
The nice thing about today's equipment is you get the same quality as you did back in the day, but way cheaper!

 

I wouldn’t mind having a PPI studio art amp but hard to find not beat up or for a fortune.

 

Try the Zapco ST-105D. I had the old series ST-D amps in my 2010 Tundra and Zapc DSP. Hybrid Audio Legatia 3.7” in dash, Clarus 6.5” bridged in the front doors, and two 10” Imagine subs. All low powered and did the install. I had Scott Buwalda who has the highest SQ scoring evercar in IASCA tune it. Even though Class D is not as good as Class A/B. It’s $499 on Amazon. Then put a 10” or 12” in the back.

 

On your non-JBL 2014 ( I know because it is what I have);

Front doors are 6X9 2ohm and the Entune HU only sends mids and lows to them thru the factory amp under the passenger's seat.
It uses the dash speakers as 'tweeters'.
So to get a proper signal to an aftermarket amp, from the Entune, you'll need some kind of processor.





Rear doors are 6 1/2 and I think 2ohm and run off that amp.
I don't have any pics of the stock rear door speakers.

Dash speakers run directly off the HU.
The signal runs to each side speaker, then to the center which is a dual voice coil.
Side left, center right.





Sides are 6 ohm, not much room as far as depth for replacement speakers.



Center is 8 ohm X 2 dual coil (left and right), plenty of depth, there is nothing under them.



Knowing what I know now, if I had to do it all over again, I would buy one of @james@tech12volts package deals.
I spent way too much time and money to get to where I am today.
It would have been easier to use his stuff and be done with it.

https://www.shop.tech12volts.com/category.sc?categoryId=124

Shoot him an email and he will answer any questions you might have.
tech12volt@gmail.com

@Electonicsfanatic suggested Taco tunes but I would seriously research them before I invested any money into them.
I didn't have much luck with straight answers to questions and threads can be found on a couple forums of less than stellar customer service.

 

@1lowlife this is all true. The JL clean sweep, Audiocontrol, and Taco Tunes all do this. The JL offers one button autocorrect of the factory signal.

 

If you decide to piece together whatever on whatever your budget may be..

I ended up with Focal 2-way components for my front doors.
As @Electonicsfanatic did, I made my own front door spacers out of 3/4" MDF and painted them for the front doors.
I also bought JBL door sails and installed the Focal tweeters in them.









For the rear doors I literally ripped the stock speakers out of the OEM brackets and installed my Focals into them.
I should have just made MDF spacers for them..





I'm running an Alpine PDX V9 and a JL Audio twin 10" Stealthbox in my DC.





After trying an AudioControl LC6i and a JBL MS-8 with the Entune and having less than stellar results, I went with an after market HU.
Keep most of the steering wheel controls using an idatalink Maestro.

https://maestro.idatalink.com/

@GNX6 if you keep the entune and try an aftermaket amp and replacing the door speakers, most of the connections you need are under the passenger seat in the OEM amp.
front and rear signal out from Entune, output to the 4 door speakers, remote on for the amp, etc.

This can help with your wiring and keep it all plug and play..

https://www.autoharnesshouse.com/41112.html

Instructions..

https://www.tundras.com/threads/upgrading-the-audio-2015-trd-pro.1199/#post-17824

You'll still need to run a fused line from the battery and make your amp ground.
Since the dash speakers run off the entune, they won't be affected.

Even if you don't have plans to get a sub, I'd highly recommend a 5 channel amp.
After you start trying to improve what you have, you're going to eventually want some kind of sub in the truck..