Squeaking Belt - replacing alternator really $1000 job??

Howdy - new member, first post.

I just purchased a 2007 Tundra Crewmax Limited - 135k miles.
Had a lot of belt squealing that was driving me crazy, and it was clear that there were several separate noises.

Replaced the serpentine, and now there's a squeaking, but it's intermittent. Brought to a local mechanic, and he couldn't determine if the noise was coming from the alternator or power steering pump bearings.

Figured a 17 year old truck could use a new alternator if that was the case, but I was told it's a $1000 job because it's under the frame or something? Does this sound right??

Also any way to verify for sure where the noise is coming from?

Thanks!

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aaaaaand run away as fast as you can... lol, jk.... I don't know what real issue you may be having. If you're killing batteries, I'd say the alternator is going, but if it's just a squeak, 1. there may be condensation trapped in the serpentine belt's ribs. 2 it may be an idler pulley, or your belt tensioner that may be old. I still have my OEM alternator. My truck was squeaking like no tomorrow, so I replaced the idler pulley and belt tensioner by force when my water pump blew out. They're both not hard to replace, the idler is at the top on the driver side of the engine and the tensioner may be a slight challenge next to the alternator. I would replace those 2 maintenance items first before you replace the alternator. I see the replacing of the alternator as unnecessary unless you're killing batteries. If you DIY these 2, use a 6mm hex for the tensioner, if you use a 5mm you will strip the inside of it. If you don't feel confident, then by all means ask the mechanic to replace these 2 things 1st and go from there.

 

That was a scary first sentence to read....

No battery issues - just noisy. Original alternator.
Did the idler pully and tensioner when I replaced the serpentine belt.

So you're saying replacing the alternator (if it's a bearing being noisy) is NOT a $1000 job??

 

Damn!!, if it's confirmed to be the bearing on the alternator, then I guess... I could tell you a starter replacement in Nor Cal was about 2 grand.... This was like 3-4 years ago now.

 

I did one on a 2008 5.7L. It's a PITA, I'm not surprised a shop would charge $1000, I think I was quoted $700 back in 2019. I did it myself with a combination of access from the wheel well and underneath. Not a mechanic, but I think the typical way to troubleshoot the noise is to spray a lubricant on each pully, one at a time and see which one quiets down for a bit.

 

Try using a mechanic stethoscope (the same gadget doctors use) to hear where the noise is coming from. Even a long piece of wood will do. I would guess the idler pulleys need cleaned.

 

Buy yourself a Haynes repair manual, a decent set of metric tools, an alternator, idler, tensioner, water pump, belt, thermostat, upper radiator hose and three gallons of coolant. You'll learn about your truck, fix it, get some maintenance done, and save about $400.

 

Your can download the TSM as well on here for free. There should be a post in the sticky post with that info in it.

Most of this stuff btw can be done by you with a little YouTubeing and persistence.

 

Sounds great - except for the one thing I don't have is time. Building a house - so my tools are for wood.
Also, the whole "lifting the engine from the frame", or whatever the mechanic was talking about seemed to be a repair requiring a lift.

 

I had an alternator replaced about 4 years ago it was about $700 so in 2023 could be $1k. It is a PITA the alternator is on the bottom of the engine it is very helpful if you have a lift. I had noticed my headlights getting dimmer over time the alternator finally failed resulting in a dead battery

 

Might be a simple fix. VERY EASY to route the belt incorrectly and it still function. The indicator for a misrouted serp belt is a squeal. Check the diagram and make sure you routed it correctly on the left/passenger side. HAPPENS ALL THE TIME.

 

I can believe it. Haynes manual says you go in from passenger side , remove wheel. You also have to pull the power steering pump to access all the bolts for the alternator. So yeah that sounds reasonable unfortunately

 

LOL - My Haynes Manual says alternator work is in Chapter 5. There is no Chapter 5. And Chapter 6 is after Chapter 7. I just did an alternator swap on our 2013 4.6L. Several videos on YouTube, however most are not well done. With patience, it can come out through the port in the fender, but yeah - the power steering pump has to come loose and you really have to work at it to get it far enough forward to gain access. Also, some videos say 'drop the sway bar.' This dropping the bar will not work if you have the trailer towing package. All the transmission cooler lines are right there, in the way. Two of us, both skilled in auto repair took 4 hours to complete this. I was quoted $750 just for the labor from a local Toyota dealer and frankly, if you don't have help and a ton of patience - it's worth it.