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Squeaking noise while backing up

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Chuck750ss, Oct 19, 2024.

  1. Oct 19, 2024 at 12:10 PM
    #1
    Chuck750ss

    Chuck750ss [OP] New Member

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    My 2004 Tundra recently started making a squeaking noise, similar to a u joint when it starts going out, while backing up. Nothing going forward. With door close and window open it sounds like it is coming from the front end. However when I open the door while backing up, it sounds like coming from front end AND from the entire underside. I haven’t been able to have someone drive truck while I stand outside, away from vehicle.
    Before I start tearing into anything, does anyone have any suggestions?
     
  2. Oct 19, 2024 at 12:31 PM
    #2
    shifty`

    shifty` Just like witches at black masses

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    Check your brake dust shields up front to confirm they aren’t rubbing on the rotor. This one has bitten a few of us on here in the ass. Including me!
     
    Chuck750ss[OP] likes this.
  3. Oct 19, 2024 at 12:47 PM
    #3
    Weagle

    Weagle I survived my timing belt change

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    Bilstein 5100's with 2883's - close to 2" Replacing the 2883's and going back to the bottom perch ASAP -mobile/apple play stereo with sub and backup cam -Power stop HD front calipers and rotors for towing -20" wheels with 32" tires (305/50's) Toyo AT 3's with no rubbing -Westin nerf bars -Detroit axle new (not rebuilt) steering rack with poly bushings, inner and outer TRE's -Suspension Maxx extended front sway bar links -Overland tuning - medium level -Power front leather seats and steering wheel from 06 Sequoia -fully de-chromed/blacked out trim -all light housings incl 3rd brake light and tag lights replaced with smoked lenses, LED where appropriate -mini projector headlights -fully rebuilt trans and new torque converter -new complete drive shaft with spicer u-joints and carrier bearing -all LED interior lights including backlighting -new lower window seals for all 4 doors -all new hardware and clips for tailgate Next: Dirty Deeds racing exhaust with LT headers, yellow box, 12 hole DD fuel injectors, redo or replace door panels
    Any recent maintenance/work on your truck?
     
  4. Oct 19, 2024 at 1:02 PM
    #4
    des2mtn

    des2mtn On the scenery looking at the road

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    Is it present just on startup, or consistent? Is it still there when you back up without touching the brakes at all?
     
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  5. Oct 19, 2024 at 3:59 PM
    #5
    Chuck750ss

    Chuck750ss [OP] New Member

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    Have not checked anything yet.
     
  6. Oct 19, 2024 at 3:59 PM
    #6
    Chuck750ss

    Chuck750ss [OP] New Member

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    None.
     
  7. Oct 19, 2024 at 4:00 PM
    #7
    Chuck750ss

    Chuck750ss [OP] New Member

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    Consistent. Makes noise without touching brakes.
     
    Weagle likes this.
  8. Oct 19, 2024 at 4:41 PM
    #8
    shifty`

    shifty` Just like witches at black masses

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    Mine did too. And only in reverse. Typically when cold. I thought it was in rear. Turned out it was the front passenger brake dust shield barely touching the rotor at the 10 o’clock position. Contact mark was less than an inch. Drove me nuts for months.
     
  9. Oct 19, 2024 at 4:55 PM
    #9
    Chuck750ss

    Chuck750ss [OP] New Member

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    Will check that out. I was kind of thinking maybe a rock.
     
  10. Oct 25, 2024 at 11:25 AM
    #10
    Chuck750ss

    Chuck750ss [OP] New Member

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    Ok. Found the problem. Swing bearing, drive shaft support bearing or whatever you want to call it. Also found one of the constant velocity u joint just starting to go out.
     
    shifty` and Jmccracken1214 like this.
  11. Oct 25, 2024 at 1:27 PM
    #11
    shifty`

    shifty` Just like witches at black masses

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    "Carrier bearing" is how a lot of folks around here refer to it. Glad you got it solved. That's not what I would've expected it to be.

    Note that OEM CV joints are notoriously pretty bulletproof, better than anything you'll find aftermarket. You'll get 2x-3x as much life out of them as anything under $500-600 on the market today, and it's an exact fit, no seals to swap, nothing extra like aftermarket.

    And best yet, the national Toyota Parts site is having a 25% discount I think until Sunday. You can order online and pick up at your nearest participating dealership, free of charge, and usually at a substantil discount (in my case, $200 off!) which is great compared to the $572 MSRP the parts counter will charge you if you don't use the national parts website as your entry point.

    National Parts Site link to your CV axle is here: https://autoparts.toyota.com/products/product/shaft-assy-fr-drive-434300c010

    Note that each dealer (see the "Shop This Dealer" link at that page) will have a different discount rate. In checking mine, it's looking like one dealer shows $377 in the cart, and after the 25% discount and other discounts at CHECKOUT page (which is where all discounts are applied), I'd be out a scant $282 to buy OEM and pick up at the local dealership 10 miles away.

    upload_2024-10-25_16-27-45.png
     
  12. Oct 25, 2024 at 3:26 PM
    #12
    des2mtn

    des2mtn On the scenery looking at the road

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    By CV joint in this context, @Chuck750ss may be referring to the double cardan joint

    I personally wouldn't take a crack at the double cardan unless you really know what you're doing with it. There's a special ball and spring that is a royal pain for DIYers to do. I would call driveline shops and heavy duty truck shops to see if they can tackle the job, otherwise full driveshaft replacement is usually the recommended choice.

    upload_2024-10-25_15-18-59.png
     
  13. Oct 26, 2024 at 11:30 AM
    #13
    Chuck750ss

    Chuck750ss [OP] New Member

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    Yup, cardan joint, once upon a time (I am old bastage) referred to as cv joint. I have a lot of experience replacing u joints. See where this could be a pain. Going to call some driveshaft shops Monday. All are a 2 hour drive.
    In case I decide to tackle this myself. Any idea where I can find a complete rebuild kit? Looked online but came away some what confused. We have a Toyota dealership about a hour away so getting oem support bearing should not be an issue.
     
  14. Oct 26, 2024 at 1:31 PM
    #14
    bfunke

    bfunke Tundra Curmudgeon

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    Summit Racing sells the Dana Spicer 1310 Double Carden head for $253. I have not verified that’s the one we have but it looks the same.
     
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  15. Oct 26, 2024 at 5:56 PM
    #15
    des2mtn

    des2mtn On the scenery looking at the road

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    There's no dealership part for just the double cardan joint, or a part number for a rebuild kit. The factory service manual does not have a procedure for repairing the double cardan joint and just calls for full driveshaft replacement.

    This guy lists some part numbers and a vendor for a '00 Tundra, I can't verify whether these will work on your truck. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f28...list-confirmed-installed-koyo-kc1719d-288098/

    upload_2024-10-26_17-55-42.png

    The center support bearing isn't too bad and something that's definitely do-able. You can get the OEM part for cheaper without going to the dealership: Spicer part number 5002007
    https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10997772&cc=0&pt=12743&jsn=3
     
  16. Oct 26, 2024 at 6:22 PM
    #16
    Chuck750ss

    Chuck750ss [OP] New Member

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    Thanks. Looks like 2000 and 2004 use same drive shafts, should be able to verify with dealer. If so, those cardan parts and u joints should fit.That link you sent on the support bearing is solid! Thanks, save me some bucks!
    Going to call driveshaft shops in Little Rock area Monday. If they can rebuild and NOT cost me an arm and leg I will go that route. I am capable of doing it myself and will do so if need be.
    Kicking myself in the ass big time. I am a maintenance nerd and TOTALLY missed greasing the cardan joint. Inexcusable.
     

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