Squeaking passenger door...

An annoying squeaking has started at my passenger door. It's effected by the window going up all the way which stops it...mostly. Every single bump and its very noticeable. I tracked the sounds to this general area...but not sure how to respond. Maybe a link here to same problem?

 

I would oil the hinge pin area really well and then spray some silicone lubricant on the rubber seals in the same areas identified. Be sure to get the silicone spray on as much of the backside of the rubber seals as possible.

 

My driver's side door was creaky, and it turns out that two or three spotwelds on the jamb side of the inner door panel had cracked. Currently being held together with TEK screws until I get around to plug-welding it.

 

Took it by dealer he indicated a body shop would need to fix it without taking real look. So perhaps the spot weld is accurate. Im going to take apart the door to get a closer look. The window going up or down effecting the noise level means maybe it can be home fixed.

 

If you're interested a guy on facebook sells bolt in panel to strengthen it or replacement pieces if it's too far gone.

Have your tried tightening the window track bolts?

 

Haven't opened it up yet. Will do so soon.

 

Got door off. Immediately noticed was speaker falling out...... more to come?

 

Just behind speaker is window track. Two of screw anchors on speaker have failed for sure. However still squeaks with speaker out so def a hinge issue... second pic is of middle hinge back assembly.

 

Found it. Bolt for window rail was loose and there was NO mistaking the sound when I shook the bolt/rail. #3 thing fixed today. Off to fetch anchors for speaker and broken clips fixing squeaking.

 

Ermigod, says a lot for old Toyotas when they can get to 28 years old and still have the plastic sheeting intact!

 

That speaker situation is a joke

 

As long as the constant squeaking is gone, I'm more than satisfied. I was about to start playing birds singing non-stop in the truck audio system as I drove along. As for the speaker, I'll replace the swollen mdf which is what I think caused the square grommets to fail behind the screws. Will have to replace the grommets once I get the archived part number for them 90189- something??? It's the grommet (with square base hole) just above the squeaky bolt in pic above.

 

90189-005097 per the 2nd image in the list here (this is for 06 DC SR5). It's too bad you can't replace the missing OEM baffles while you're at it. Why someone removed the OEM baffles is ... baffling! They actually do a great job, I modified my OEMs to work, it took 5 minutes:

https://parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_2...T-4WD/_52016_6710152/SPEAKER/841420-8602.html

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Yep.. just came from dealer... 91089-05097.... $7 each at dealer

 

My guess is this non oem speaker they added later wouldn't fit with it.

 

Yeah, you'd hafta be pretty desperate to buy directly from the dealership when Toyota gives you a massive discount for ordering online via their Parts site. You can even pick up your order directly from any participating dealership, even the ones that sell it to you for $7 at their counter.

https://parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota_2...-4WD/GROMMET---SCREW/69394629/9018905097.html

$1.58 is MSRP. At one of my local participating dealerships, if I start the order at Parts.Toyota.Com, it's $1.14. Do yourself a favor, please read this. FTR, a lot of decent dealerships will price match if you show them Toyota's online price.

 

You can make anything fit. That driver doesn't look larger than OEM. Maybe they were just inexperienced, or clueless

On the AC and RC trucks, which have different doors and slightly different baffles, you just need to un-weld the plastic connector, or cut the wire where it passes thru the baffle. Then you can maintain the original sound staging and waterproofing offered by the OEM baffle by reusing it. I can't imagine the DC doors are terribly different.

 

Yep... i already found/used that site but am looking for faster shipping. $1.13 there. Thanks for info.

 

@lionscourt I believe your door should've come with similar to what we have on the access cab - and the exploded diagram at the Toyota Parts site supports it.

I'm pretty sure your truck is supposed to have plastic cans/baffles like this. I suspect a previous owner took yours out. They're angled to provide sound stage. I'm guessing whoever did the audio "upgrade" on your truck failed to recognize you can just wriggle out the OEM connector on the side and use the hole as a conduit to pass your replacement wire thru, unscrew the OEM speaker, and screw in your upgraded driver. What you've got with MDF - which is pretty sensitive to moisture - is kinda a hackjob. I'd be hitting a junkyard and getting the old OEM pieces back, since buying new is ludicrous pricing.

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Yes, definitely not "kinda a hackjob," but a full on hack; and is most likely the reason for everything after. From what I can tell of speaker, it would not have fit seamlessly or was outside the tool level. I work in restoration carpentry and what usually happens is the owner of the vehicle and/or house decides to take the job on themselves to save money--but is not a skilled crafts-person or just out of depth. So you get inexperience, ignorance, apathy, and cheapness all wrapped into one...

 

So prolly gonna need that baffle or same thing happens again in time so went to the one open salvage yard. Doubted there would be any Tundras and none at all but figured the Sequoias would more likely be there, here in CA. Just two Sequoias there at "pick your part," and usually the doors are gone first. First one was 2003 Seq and got lucky...passenger door was intact so was able to able to pull it in about 15 mins. There was a driver side there also and now, I'm gonna have to go get it...lol as most likely the audio hack did the same BS to my driver side. $8 for part $24 for screws. Lol. Speaker does not fit in baffle...not 6.5" but smaller, 6.25" so he was like, F it... i'll just MDF it....lol.

I'll either modify for the baffle (I grabbed some adapter rings--which by the way were replacement baffles which didn't work with my speakers not adapter rings) or buy another speaker (nope, only real way to update system is removing storage below back seats) which means i might be getting that driver side baffle sooner than later...if it's still there.

 

I probably have some adapter rings if you think it'll help. Unless I chucked 'em recently, which I don't think I did. JBL provides adapters that'll make up for up to 1/2" (1" total) difference for exactly this purpose. Scosche makes similar. I always save them when I don't use them.

 

Picked up some brackets at Crutchfield and other broken clips via Toyota parts online. All will be here by Thursday and will let you know how they work. Will still cut off the exterior small speaker circle on baffle as it's not necessary for either a speaker, the sound, or weatherproofing.

 

Sooooo to make a long story short, the hacked speaker; a three way as opposed to a single cone, portuded too far out, and even more so with supposed adapter brackets I purchased. So i made a friction based interior bracket to recede the speaker inside the original baffle. Then added some screws and hole 4 wires.

 

Nice! I don't think I realized that was triaxial, I thought it was just a standard coaxial, and now I look again, I noticed how far it protrudes. Then it jumped out at me how many goddamn scotch-lok T-taps are on the factory wiring and my jimmies got rustled. Then I saw what I assume is a crossover just hanging out there. The previous owner either really DGAF, or let someone cobble shit together in there, I guess. I don't understand why they didn't damage the other side of the harness with T-taps, past the now-empty white plug on the door. But whatever. At least the truck has someone who does GAF now and will get the attention it needs.

Did you already test-fit for depth with the window all the way open?

 

That was the one thing I worried about. I just gave it an eye test and it didn't seem to extend out past the weatherproof awning on back/top of baffle. I testesd it with door hanging with wires attached and it worked fine. All back together now.

 

your jimmies got rustled??? lol

Yeah it was def a hack job. So what I'm eventually going to do is pick up new/used baffles for all the doors as I'm sure they hacked the other side AND the rear speakers and then I'll restore/update everything to normal with separate tweets for extra lil' speaker. Most likely I'll add a couple small amps and 8" woofers to make the sound fuller. The audio/speakers are pretty bad so I've planned on this for a while but on the back-burner for now. I have a pretty big fix going on with having to replace the head gasket next.