Stalling problems with my 2002 Tumdra V 8

My Tundra has 350,000 miles on it. Just bought it. Love it! 1st Toyota I owned in my own name!! Grew up with Toyotas but never officially owned one. It has a label under the hood that states timing belt replacement at 299,707 miles, so only having 50 thousand miles since then makes me happy.
I have 2 problems: OBD tool show no code and no engine light (I been wondering if engine light on dash is burned out!)
It starts, runs with no issues (great) but shuts down (stalls) after a few seconds. Replaced the Maf sensor; Checked vacuum lines (3 had little cracks at ends so I taped it with electrical tape. I’m replacing them asap); went to test fuel pump but don’t have a in line pressure gauge. So I went to take off the fuel pump fuse and the outer plastic case broke! Honestly couldn’t say it was broken before I touched it, but when I finally got it off, I couldn’t find 1piece. I then ran power to the fuse connection testing the pump high and low speed.i could hear pump run both times, so I know I’m not confirming pressure the pump puts out (38 - 41 psi, or minimum 21 psi for 5 mins after shut down), but at least the pump is making noise! The prongs on the fuse looked burnt also. So I’m leaning (praying) that’s the problem. I know truck wouldn’t run if fuse was bad, but it did. Before stall out, I worked the pedal to keep in running and it kept going; just wanting to stall at idle. Help

 

Second problem I forgot to mention, is emergency brake needs to tighten up. I put it in park on a hill and it rolls. So pressure is on parking gear. Adjustment is where…?

 

Welcome to the FGT group. Looks at the sticky threads. Shifty posted one about you just bought a FGT - read it. There is an entire thread dedicated to brake adjustment. Regarding the CEL bulb, it should be on if you turn your key to on but don’t start the truck. Search function is your friend on the forum.

 

In park theres a steel pawl that digs into a wheel on the trans output shaft. If its rolling, either the pawl is broke, or the shifter isnt engaging all the way.

for the stall, dont forget to unplug the battery for a bit to reset the learned parameters.

 

Congrats on the truck and welcome aboard. Definitely read through the threads suggested by @bfunke , they were created by a very knowledgeable member and contain 85% of what you need to know about these trucks. The rear brakes likely need adjustment, and /or replacement. The rear parking brake mechanism could also be worn out over time, but one does not just adjust the parking brake itself to get the function back. The dying at idle is likely unmetered air entering. The vacuum lines you saw that were cracked are the likely culprit, but the MAF sensor can also play a role. Make sure you used a genuine OEM replacement part or the brand name (hitachi I believe) equivalent. These trucks do not like non-OEM electronics.

 

But with an open diff - can’t one wheel still turn while in park?

 

Not if only 1 side is jacked up off the ground.

 

Theres a cable running under the truck (I think its runs along the drivers side) and there is a nut that you can tighten/loosen to adjust tension. Techincally you can just follow the E-brake cable from the back of the truck until you find it. You would likely be able to find a tutorial on YouTube as well.

 

Interesting. Sounds like a misfire issue, but you already said there are no codes or dash lights. Maybe the IAC valve needs to be cleaned? It was a pretty simple cleaning and removal on my SR5 with the 3.4 v6. Not sure on what the process if with the 4.7 L.