Starter Torque specs

I’m replacing the starter on a 2002 with the 4.7 V8.

Can I get the torque specs for the starter, throttle body, & intake Manifold ?

 

Don't have 02 FSM but 01-03 should be same.

from 2003 FSM....
Starter - 29 ft-lb
Throttle body - 13 ft-lb(2 nuts,2 bolts)
Upper Intake Manifold - 13 ft-lb....tightened starting from the inside and going outwards.

 

Hopefully didn't replace starter because 'no start' condition

(unless it actually was the starter"

 

Oh no, it was the starter.

Been grinding for a second or two just as the engine catches. I’m familiar enough with the 20 year old truck, for a few weeks I could time releasing the key JUST before it catches to minimize the momentary grind at startup.

then a horrible permanent grinding all the way home !!

when I pulled the old starter out, it came out in 4 pieces, with a pile of shavings !!

(flywheel looks good, I’m the original owner and the original starter lasted almost 300k !)

 

Holy crap!

Wasn't trying to question you, we just see lots of posts like this one. No-start condition, a lot of people immediately go to "must be the starter, only to find the same issue after replacement.

Did you go with the beefier OEM cold-weather package starter, or just the standard unit?

 

Nice I may reference this if I do the starter, but after reading through that thread that ‘shifty’ posted I am not sure my starter is dead..what exactly is “no start” condition? How can you single out the starter with out pulling the whole thing apart. Apologize if this is too much of a hijack, but I figured it’s related…
Thanks for your time.

 

Reply #9 has a video a couple of us have been circulating to do a bit of basic diagnostics. Basically, bypassing that relay allows you to direct-power the starter from the fuse/relay box to confirm it spins. This is not a 100% thing; rodents are known to get inside the empty cavity and chew things up in places where rodents are an issue, so no silver bullet.

There are a few components that can go wrong to interrupt starting your vehicle:

• Bad battery/Low CCA
• Park/neutral position switch wiring or failure
• Wiring issues anywhere in the starter relay circuit (i.e.: rodent damage, corrosion at battery terminals, corrosion inside the battery/pwr cables, faulty/bad/missing grounds, blown fuse in engine fuse/relay box, arced/fried/severed harness or connectors, etc.)
• Ignition switch
• ECM

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Recently, someone had an ECM issue; water came down from the windshield or other area, and was able to get into the ECM and fry a couple of contacts - starter turned over, but no ignition. New ECM cured that. the P/NPS (top bullet) has been found in other cases. Aftermarket alarms can often fail after 10-15 years, causing a failure in the ignition switch operation, they tie into that wiring. We've seen battery and battery power/ground lead corrosion cause a lot of starting issue. Those seem to be the common ones.

 

Okay thanks that gives me some things to check off the list. Could definitely be corrosion, as the truck came from the east coast and is pretty rusty. It started up randomly the other week after trying to jump and having the blower on and lights/ while also rolling down window lol maybe just coincidence.

 

So after going through that video and checking ignition switch fuse was getting energized and trying the trick to send power straight to the starter, the starter is grinding (making ‘grrr grrr’ sound) when sending power directly to it. Is my next step to pull the thing apart and check the starter/cavity? Seems strange that it just died/ie I haven’t driven it in a few weeks and went to start, and no start but did start once after trying a few times which made me think possibly the solenoid since I’ve heard that it might work if it gets warmed up.. does it point to the starter if truck just stopped starting or would it be more of a slow death…
Thanks for your time!
That video was a big help but i’m not sure where to go form here.

 

Are you saying you jumped it and without turning the key it just turned over? If so that sounds like a faulty aftermarket alarm system.

Could try hitting the starter with a hammer if you can get to it and see if it frees up if you're getting a sort of grinding sound.

 

No i was turning the key, but it had not worked the 4-6 times before, and then I turned the blower on and the lights, while also rolling down the window and when I turned the key it started, idk if having all the electrical components on was just a coincidence?