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Steering Rack moving, whirr and creak noises

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Tundras (2014-2021)' started by fytedapowr, May 7, 2020.

  1. May 7, 2020 at 8:51 AM
    #1
    fytedapowr

    fytedapowr [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2018
    Member:
    #21771
    Messages:
    84
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jake
    Austin TX
    Vehicle:
    '15 1794 4x4
    Bilstein 6112/5160, CB +2 shackles, SPC UCA's, CB bumper shims, 35's
    I could use some help diagnosing a couple things that have been driving me crazy. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    2015 4wd crewmax 1794. 6112's on top setting (replaced recently, symptoms remain) with driver side CB shim, SPC uppers (ball joints replaced, same symptoms), newish brakes all around. 295/70/R18 tires. No diff drop. Sway bar and skid plate off, no change.

    There was grease leaking out of driver LBJ and both tie rod ends, but nowhere else. Regreased with needle for temp fix.


    Symptoms
    1. Floaty wandering steering, play in steering wheel, steering wheel not returning to straight. Steering rack movement. (Grease leaking from both tie rod ends, but no fluid loss from system)
    2. Mechanical whirring noise from what seems to be driver front wheel. It's cyclical in nature and changes intensity with suspension changes
    3. Creak from same wheel well with suspension articulation
    4. Driver side front suspension tends to dip further/easier and is much less stiff than passenger
    Potential causes I could think of (besides alignment and tire rotation and balance)
    1. Rack bushing failure, rack failure, bad tie rods. LCA's not torqued to 207 ft/lbs after alignment, frozen cam bolt, bad lower ball joint
    2. Related to another problem, CV axle or needle bearing, wheel bearing.
    3. Lower ball joint, LCA bushings/cam bolt torque,
    4. Likely connected to 3. Bad or incorrectly installed shock/spring, upper/lower arms torqued without vehicle weight, cam bolt on LCA's, through bolt on UCAs.
    Fixes (what I'm leaning towards in bold)
    1. Poly bushings, and new TRE's. Maybe new rack
    2. EGCS bearing (haven't seen conclusive evidence this actually helps anyone long term)?
    3. Replace lower arms and LBJ
    4. Loosen or remove/reinstall suspension on both sides to inspect bushings/components and reinstall correctly
    I have had a hell of a time trying to find a competent shop nearby I can trust. I've been to probably 6 now. They've straight up left bolts off, given trash alignments, done multiple things that are the "sure fix" and cost a lot but don't show results, or just flat out refuse service upon inspection because they can't readily see the problem and don't want to charge a ton to do something that may not fix it.

    Any suggestions on trusted shops in Austin? I really don't want to always do the work myself as my driveway is sloped and near impossible to safely put the truck on stands, but damn if there aren't a lot of sloppy shops out there.

    Much thanks guys, long time lurker, first time poster. Videos below
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2020
  2. May 7, 2020 at 9:00 AM
    #2
    fytedapowr

    fytedapowr [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2018
    Member:
    #21771
    Messages:
    84
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jake
    Austin TX
    Vehicle:
    '15 1794 4x4
    Bilstein 6112/5160, CB +2 shackles, SPC UCA's, CB bumper shims, 35's
    Hopefully helpful, anything look out of whack?
     
  3. May 7, 2020 at 9:03 AM
    #3
    johnnyskullface

    johnnyskullface New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2020
    Member:
    #42347
    Messages:
    57
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    John
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Vehicle:
    2018 White Tundra Limited Crewmax
    Your rack should be solid with the sub frame. Make sure the bolts that secure it are tight, and the rubber insulators that go between the clamps and rack are not damaged/missing.
     
  4. May 20, 2020 at 4:19 PM
    #4
    fytedapowr

    fytedapowr [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2018
    Member:
    #21771
    Messages:
    84
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jake
    Austin TX
    Vehicle:
    '15 1794 4x4
    Bilstein 6112/5160, CB +2 shackles, SPC UCA's, CB bumper shims, 35's
    I'll post updates for any future people trying to find answers. Currently I'm having a hell of a time. After a quote of ~$1500 to replace the bushings (engine removal to access), I decided to do them myself. It's been a damn nightmare for each of the 7 hrs I've spent so far, but I've managed to get 3 of 4 bushings off (top driver side remaining, and I now have a vendetta against that bushing after likely breaking my thumb with a sledge hammer trying to get it out), replaced passenger side TRE with Mevotech TTX heavy duty ones with zerk fittings.

    Pics/results coming once completed. then probably replacing LCA's too
     
    johnnyskullface likes this.

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