Steering Rack Welded Nut Stripped

Morning y'all!

My issue is the horizontal (lower, I believe) bolt that goes into the welded nut on the cross member which holds down the bushing support spun when I was trying to torque it down. I got a new stud and nut, but to no avail, I believe the nut on the cross member is just toast.

Is it possible to grind the welds and just jb weld a new nut to the cross member? I see a lot of people have run into this, but they're using helicoil kits. Would rather have an actual OEM nut that is supposed to be there. Thanks!

 

Get a new nut that fits the longer bolt and use it to tighten the bolt into place. Tack weld onto the crossmember if desired, use a washer if not.

 

You’re talking about this bolt here, right?


Why can’t you put a wrench on the other side? I really don’t think JB weld would hold.

 

Nope. It's the one on the front side of the sub-frame which holds the u-bracket on and has a stud going through it. Picture here.


I'm not sure what the previous owner was thinking, but there's evidence of it trying to be removed, from what I can see. Looking at it further, not sure it can be removed...hmmm...maybe chasing would allow the threads to grab and get to the 123ft lbs of torque recommended for the nut. Problem is, I can get the stud in, but when I tighten the nut, the stud just spins and keeps catching then loosening.

 

Hmm. I doubt that you are going to be able to save the nut. Is there room to get another nut on top of the existing one? There's been a couple times when I have had to drill out a stripped nut and put another one on top.

Also, 123ft-lbs is a lot. There's what, 6 large bolts holding the steering rack on? I'd bet you don't need the full amount of torque on that one nut. I don't remember putting a torque wrench on that bolt when I changed my rack bushings. Not sure I even own a torque wrench that goes up that high.

 

That's actually not a bad idea, if there's room. Yeah, I agree, it's almost impossible for me to get that torque on there with 200 lbs of fat ass behind me as well. Not trying to save the nut, really would like to replace it and just have a washer on either side and bolt it up. I was thinking that I may be able to break some of the tack welds with an oscillating multi-tool with a carbide blade to get it off, then replace with a washer and nut, just to keep it secure. There are three (I believe) other anchor points, but no other anchor points on the passenger, so the thought of driving it makes me nervous. I'll try the multi-tool and report back. Appreciate the help!

 

Sounds like a good plan to me! Good luck.

 

Cut or torch out old nut, stitch weld in new nut

 

The rack would probably require removal in order to helicoil. The height of the stripped nut leads me to think it's not hardened. Probably since welding it in place would soften it. It looks like the PO tried to chisel it off and it's highly unlikely that would work.
If you can find a good sawzall blade that would fit in the confined space the circular part of the nut could be cut off the the hex head area allowing more room for a nut to be added.
It's unfortunate situation to be in but repairable.

 

Got that damn thing off, finally. I ground what I could with a grinding wheel, and then finished it off with a carbide multi-tool and cold chisel. After that: painted bare metal and bolted it noice and toit like a toiger! Thanks all!

 

Thanks for the report back and kudos for your perseverance. Ya done good.