The Story of My Tundra...

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

December marks 5 years that I've owned my Tundra! My how time flies when you're having fun. I'm starting to go through my ~ 1,500 posts, and I'll build this thread to document the journey.

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

Just got my first Tundra (yay!). I'll be looking around the forum for ways to combat the rust (for example my spare is rusted in place) and to keep her in top shape for years to come. My other cars are a 98 Land Cruiser and an 08 4Runner.
Click to expand...

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

Today I got out the bolt cutters and dropped my spare...needless to say the winch was rusted solid. I saw some nasty pics of rusted spare tire carriers on this site recently, and so I wanted to have a look underneath sooner rather than later. It's not too bad...I can work with this. Now to find a new winch.
Click to expand...

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

I used a wire brush to remove all the loose rust, and then Permatex Rust Converter. I used my grinding wheel to cut through the bolts for the hoist and grind the surface flat. A couple coats of Eastman Rust Encapsulator spray, and finally a new hoist (~$50 eBay). Now I'm ready for another 15 years (actually longer, because I'll remember to lower the hoist and lubricate the cable every year).

Click to expand...

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

I had great success with Safe T Cap. I was well aware of rust issues when I bough my 2004 AC, but I spent most of my time inspecting the frame from the rear. I later (after I owned it, of course) discovered rust through on the driver's side under the wheel wells. I found Safe T Cap had the exact solution for my situation, and found a great installer right on their website. Now I'm happy guy!

https://www.autorust.com/product-category/toyota/tundra-2000-2006/

Click to expand...

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

I had great success with Safe T Cap. I was well aware of rust issues when I bough my 2004 AC, but I spent most of my time inspecting the frame from the rear. I later (after I owned it, of course) discovered rust through on the driver's side under the wheel wells. I found Safe T Cap had the exact solution for my situation, and found a great installer right on their website. Now I'm happy guy!

https://www.autorust.com/product-category/toyota/tundra-2000-2006/

Click to expand...

w666[OP] said: ↑

I had to dig to find the “after” photos

Click to expand...

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

I’m just getting ready to do this now @ 228K miles. I have the Aisin kit and other parts.

Does it matter which FIPG I use on the water pump? Permatex black vs Toyota red? Or a better question, perhaps...what does Toyota specify for this application?
Click to expand...

Ed note: The answer is "Red"

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

A funny thing happened on the way to the forum (see what I did there?)...

I changed my spark plugs this weekend, but I could not remove #8. It’s not like it was seized. I could unloosen it easily enough, but the more I turned it the harder it was to turn it. After several turns I found myself thinking about reaching for a breaker bar, but that seemed like a bad idea. I ran it back down and snugged it up, then tried again. Same result. All the other old plugs looked remarkably good (5 yr old Denso Iridium), so I let it go for now...7 new plugs and one slightly used in #8.

Q: Has anyone had a similar experience? What could be causing it to bind more as I withdraw it?

Q: Any ideas how to solve the problem? I’m terrified to try muscling it out for fear that it will snap off and leave me with a big problem. Right now I just have a little problem.
Click to expand...

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

I'm doing mine now. 227,000 miles. There is no evidence that the belt has ever been changed. my truck had a single owner for most of its life, and all the dealer service records are available...I even called the service manager to check. Nothing! I've been worried about this since I got the truck, however needlessly so. It looks nearly new!

Well, I'm in there now, so I'll change it out. I have the Aisin kit so I hope I won't have to worry about it for another 200,000 miles.

Click to expand...

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

I can't believe how complicated this is! I've spent the last hour at my computer trying to find the right part number for my truck, verify it independently, and then find stock at a reseller. My truck is 2004, 4.7 V8, 4wd. When I started to feel a vibration under my feet at ~ 50 mph, I knew it was drive line not wheel related. I crawled my butt underneath this morning. The U joints are all tight, but I could move the shaft nearly an inch or so in any direction at the center bearing. So I'll change this first before I dig deeper.

I believe my OEM p/n is 67230-34030. I'm going to use Spicer 5002007. Dana makes this part, and there's a Dana p/n cross reference, but I gave up searching when I found stock for the 5002007 at Sparktec Motorsports.

If there's a unifying theme in all of the research I've done it's "Don't use aftermarket parts for this application!" I paid $70 for the Spicer part only because it's the OEM part. Had I not found stock I would have ordered the Toyota part for ~ $180
Click to expand...

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

Update...so installing this was fairly easy. There are several useful YouTube videos. And, once complete it did seem to improve the vibration somewhat, but did not eliminate it. I hate vibration problems!

So...I have a vibration under my seat that starts at ~ 45 MPH and is very evident at 50 mph. I also have "shuddering" when braking sometimes, which I've come to learn is a common drive live problem on our trucks. In hindsight, I realize I've had the shuddering problem since day 1. I first though it was bad rear shocks (replaced), and rear brakes (on the list to do once I sort this problem out).

The steering wheel is tight, with no vibration at all. This pretty much eliminates front wheel balance, etc. Maintaining speed at 50 MPH I can shift in and out of OD, and the vibration remains constant. I even tried neutral with the same result. I believe this eliminates the transmission, torque converter, etc. (Tranny and engine mounts look good, seem tight...nothing moves when I rev the engine or shift from D to R with the brakes on). So...

I ordered new Spicer U-joints for the front (tranny) and rear (axle). After I removed the first u-joint I discovered that I had the wrong parts! (not sure if it's a RockAuto error or my own...I'll sort that out later). I chose to run to the nearest AutoZone to get some inferior parts rather than leave my truck in pieces for a week while replacements arrived. Neither joint was noticeably loose while on the truck or on the bench, but when disassembled the rear joint was badly worn on one journal, so I thought I may have found the culprit.

I put it all back together and went for a test ride. While improved, the vibration is still present. The next suspect is the double Cardan joint. The Internet tells me that "Cardan" is French for "Don't Touch", and I'm inclined to agree. I'm fortunate to have a Drive Shaft Shop nearby, so the next exercise will be to have the Cardan joints replaced and the shaft checked for balance, effectively yielding a completely re-manufactured shaft assy.

Did I mention that I hate vibration problems? Other suspects include the transfer case (bearing seems tight, no leakage) and the axle pinion (same deal...tight, no leakage). I'm receptive to any suggestions all y'all might have.
Click to expand...

Ed note: It turned out to be the passenger side hub bearing...DOH!

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

While trying to sort out my vibration problem, the tire guy told me I needed a lower ball joint, and both inner and outer tie rod ends. I jacked the car up at home and the wheel was so loose in any direction it felt like it was going to fall off! So I went for it...

I've got the JBJ off, and the OEM part from McGeorge Toyota will arrive any minute now. The outer tie rod end was no more trouble to remove that expected, but the inner refuses to come loose. Before I get more aggressive with it (I'm afraid I might bend the rack), I'm wondering if anyone has had a similar problem, and more importantly, a solution.

I expected to find a lock washer staked to the flats, but there is nothing there. Perhaps it's been changed once already? Perhaps it's secured by Loctite? Yeech!

My thanks in advance for your wisdom and advice!

Click to expand...

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

While trying to sort out my vibration problem, the tire guy told me I needed a lower ball joint, and both inner and outer tie rod ends. I jacked the car up at home and the wheel was so loose in any direction it felt like it was going to fall off! So I went for it...

I've got the JBJ off, and the OEM part from McGeorge Toyota will arrive any minute now. The outer tie rod end was no more trouble to remove that expected, but the inner refuses to come loose. Before I get more aggressive with it (I'm afraid I might bend the rack), I'm wondering if anyone has had a similar problem, and more importantly, a solution.

I expected to find a lock washer staked to the flats, but there is nothing there. Perhaps it's been changed once already? Perhaps it's secured by Loctite? Yeech!

My thanks in advance for your wisdom and advice!

Click to expand...

w666[OP] said: ↑

Solved! The problem was (as is so often the case when working on cars) I had too much money! I just needed to spend more!!

I purchased a Lisle 54500 Large Inner Tie Rod Tool ($60 at Rock Auto). The Tundra requires a 42mm claw. With the tool and my 1/2" breaker bar i was able to unloose it and spin it off. I expected that Loctite was involved, but instead I found this funky white stuff all over the threads, mostly on the passenger side.

Installation of the new ends was painless. There were no slots for the claw washer, so I used Loctite and 58 ft/lbs of torque.

Click to expand...

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

It's now time to address an annoying problem that I inherited when I purchased my truck last fall. In order to lower the driver's side window I have to pull up on the switch, and hold it until the window goes completely down. To raise the window I have to push down on the switch, and the window goes up in "auto" mode. This is the exact opposite of how it should behave. The passenger side behaves normally.

It seems likely that someone replaced the regulator before I got the truck as the door card is not seated correctly. Does anyone know how I can reverse polarity on the motor to get it to behave normally? And for extra credit, how to do so at the switch so I don't have to pull the regulator out?
Click to expand...

w666[OP] said: ↑

Turned out to be easy...the regulator is easily accessible, and there are only two wires. All I had to do was switch them!

Click to expand...

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

I don't know what makes me happier...the new hub bearing, or the new splash shield!

Click to expand...

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

Watch this video...it covers the solution from one end to the other.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TmuEVv1neVQ
Click to expand...

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

I discovered that there are 12" sawzall blades when I changed my shocks...
Click to expand...

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

I finally got around to cleaning my throttle body today ('04 2UZ). I have no pics to share (you've all seen a throttle body, and there are plenty of YouTube videos available). Very easy to do: 1. Remove all the stuff that's in the way 2. Disconnect/remover the coolant and vacuum hoses 3. Remove 4 bolts (actually 2 bolts and 2 nuts) and pull it off. I cleaned it slowly and methodically (it was VERY dirty!) with Throttle Body Cleaner, and put it all back together again (using a new gasket, of course). Easy peasy...

So then I had 3 new problems

1. High Idle - After starting up the idle kicked up to ~ 1900 RPM, and then settled down to ~ 1600 RPM. Normal for me has been ~ 1100 when cold, then ~800. I checked with my spiritual advisor Google who told me to check for an obvious mistake (missing vacuum hose, for example) and then chill out...the ECU would figure it out eventually, and set everything back to normal. True that! It took a day or so of normal starts/stops, and driving around 'til now it's back to normal!

2. Coolant Hose Leak - No doubt I was the first person to un-clamp and remove these hoses since it left the factory 17 years ago. Although I tried to put it all back as I found it, there's now an annoying drip from one of the hoses <sigh>. Fine...I'll order up new hoses and clamps (as soon as I can find all the p/n's) and make it all new soon enough.

3. P0420 - Riding around today I threw this code for the first time ever. I'm thinking that the ECU is still adapting, trying to figure out what to do about all this extra air it's getting through the shiny clean throttle body. I'll keep an eye on things for the next few days to see what else jumps up.

I had planned to get a new MAF, and ultimately new O2 sensors all around sooner or later. Perhaps it may be sooner. Film at 11:00...
Click to expand...

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

I've seen roll-up Tonneau covers on this site, and IRL. I finally found an extra $150 and pulled the trigger. I used this vendor from fleabay (I think someone else here did so as well, bringing it to my attention), but there are many others offering more or less the same thing.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/163393329648

I love it!! It was a bit fiddly to install, but I made it work and didn't even have to do it twice!

Click to expand...

w666[OP] said: ↑

Channeling the ghost of PHM, the first thing I did after install was apply a generous coating of 303.
Click to expand...

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

Bump stops. It's about time I changed them...one of them was just hanging on for dear life, and the other was gone completely. The OEM p/n is 48306-04010.

I mean how hard could this be, right? I soaked the u-bolts/nuts in PB Blaster for several days, figuring that I would be able to just spin the nuts off with an impact wrench. Wrong! I had to use a 24" breaker bar with another 24" of pipe just to get any movement at all. I decided to wait 'til I got some replacement u-bolts before I continued. I didn't want to re-use them after so much force to unbolt them. Turned out to be a good idea...the corrosion had nearly welded the nuts to the bolts. It took me ~ 1 hour with a breaker bar to remove them. Finally I got one bolt out and was able to rotate it all to slide the old bump stop out, and the new in.

I read a lot online about whether to use anti-seize or not when reassembling (I mean how often, if ever, will I need to remove it again?), and I learned that anti-seize (and other thread lubricants) would create more pressure for the same amount of tightening torque than not, and I should reduce the torque ~ 20%. I did not know this...

I was able to get this all done with one new u-bolt per side. I elected not to use anti-seize. Presumably I'll not need to do this again for the life of this truck, but if so I'll saw the f'ers off and buy new (~$45 ea OEM, ~$10 ea aftermarket).

Click to expand...

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

So you run this without adding friction modifier? I recently changed my oil from whatever was in it when I bought the truck to Mobil 1

$39 75W-90 GL-5 Limited Slip, Ultra Long Drain 500k Miles, Manual Transmission, Gear/Differential Lubricant (1 Gallon)

75W-90 with LSD (I have the factory 3.91 LSD rear). Now I'm noticing a crunching/grinding sound sometimes when I accelerate hard from a stop while turning (like at a stoplight, let's say). I am hearing that our Tundras don't like synthetic gear lube, although I have run it in my Land Cruiser and 4Runner for years without complaint. I guess I'll give it a try!
Click to expand...

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

My airbag light has been on for two years. There was an open recall on the passenger airbag that I had completed last year, hoping that the stealer would clear the light when they performed the recall. No such luck (why do you think we call then stealers?)...They wanted $250 to run the scan! (Of course they'd already run the scan during the recall install. The service advisor took pity on me, and revealed the result to me on the QT). The Techstream diagnosis is "open squib circuit", aka the notorious spiral cable. I do want to get it fixed sooner or later. Here's why...

Click to expand...

Ed Note:It turned out to be the dreaded "Spiral Cable"

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

Spicer...only Spicer! Don't ask me how I know this...
Click to expand...

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

Nothing exciting to see here, unless you need to repair your exhaust. I've been running the factory exhaust since I got my truck (wow...more than two years ago now!). Lately it had begun to blow in several spots, so I knew the end was near. I got the first wake up call when the down stream O2 sensors started throwing codes. The nuts had rusted into dust, and they started to leak at the gaskets (or rather where the gaskets used to be).

More recently it began to make noise, so I crawled my butt underneath to see what was going on. On my model the two cats connect onto individual pipes, which combine just upstream of the resonator, and exit from a single pipe into the muffler. This picture shows the new part:

It was leaking at both flanges, and from the center of the resonator. (and a bonus leak later discovered from the exit tube on the driver's side cat). Before I decided to go OEM on the replacement I went to visit my local Magnaflow guy. Although he had lots of solutions, there was nothing even close to stock. I know many of you are fans, but at the end of the day I wanted it to sound stock.
We discovered that the flanges on the cat side were wafer thin (think Monty Python "The Meaning of Life" when you say "whaffer thin"), meaning some welding was in order regardless of the ultimate solution.

So muffler guy agreed to reflange the existing cats, and fit my OEM resonator. "Kinda like bringing your own eggs to the diner" I said, but he said "It's your truck, I'll do it however you want". I paid for a couple hours time and materials. This is the result.

The weld on patch below shows the bonus leak we found while doing this.

Results:

1. Everything is now more or less stock. One day I'll have to get the cats off, and/or maybe the manifolds. The solution I have is bolt on, allowing me to use factory parts going forward.
2. It's really quiet...just how I like it. Not Lexus quiet (many times I would try to start my Lexus on the realize it was already running!), but quiet.
3. The bonus leak - I've been driving around for year hearing the classic "ticking" sound, dreading the day when I'd have to replace the steering seal or the manifolds. It doesn't "tick" now...gone! Dodged the bullet! At least for now...

OEM parts ~ $250/free shipping. I could have got an aftermarket Walker muffler and parts for ~ $100, but I'd be doing this all over again in a few years. (Side bar: I once had a Honda Accord. When the muffler failed I had it replaced at Midas with "Lifetime Guarantee". I had it replaced for free under the lifetime guarantee...twice! Not a testament to their great product, but rather their bet that that 99.99% of their customers would sell their car before the muffler failed. Hondas last a loooong time). I paid muffler guy ~ $250 for a couple hours of his time, expertise, and misc parts.
Click to expand...

Ed Note: I'm ready to replace the rear section soon. OEM is no longer available...looks like Walker SS for me

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

My leak turned out to be something else altogether. I had wet spots in the corners by the rear seat, but none of the techniques here seemed to solve the problem. One day while standing in the rain I observed that the rainwater was dripping down the side of the window seal, and entering the cab through a sizeable gap. After several days of no rain I gently pried back the window gasket and squeezed liberal amounts of black RTV into the gaps (cleaning it up afterward, of course). Voila! No more water in my cabin!!

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/f-XInpcErFc
Click to expand...

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

When I first got my truck I needed shocks desperately, but I didn't want to spend big until I knew I could overcome the rust and other issues. So I bought these "original ride quality" shocks and struts at RockAuto:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4433589&cc=1426935&pt=15174
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4433613&cc=1426935&pt=15174
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8161560&cc=1426935&pt=7556

Worked great! Problem solved (I'm 99% street use). Of course I took off the OEM Bilsteins (they were all leaky and shot). Now I'm ~ 2 years down the road, but I saved the fronts so that one day (soon!) I can put Bilsteins back on.
Click to expand...

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

A couple weeks ago I posted about replacing my rusted fuel tank straps. I've been smelling gas ever since, so I thought maybe some hose or something jostled loose in the process. I crawled underneath to have a look, and it seems the the tank itself is leaking.

Is it possible that I caused this while replacing the straps? Is there a way I can remove the straps and plastic cover without dropping the tank so I can see what's going on? When I drop the tank I want to be sure I have all the replacement parts before I begin (tank, hoses, gasket, and maybe a fuel pump while I'm at it). Looks like it might be an expensive day...

Click to expand...

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

Alright...well that sucked, but the old tank is out, and the new one is ready to be lifted into place. Of course I changed the fuel pump while the tanks was down (it would be silly not to). It took the better part of a day to get this far, but I did some other stuff while I was under there. Should take me ~ 1 hour to button it all back up this morning. Yeah, I think I found the leak...

Here's the shiny new one all set to lift up.

Click to expand...

w666[OP] said: ↑

All done, and everything works fine. I poured in ~ 5 gals of gas from a can, then drove 5 miles to the gas station and pumped in 21.7 gallons more. So ~ 26.7 gallons capacity (more or less, allowing for gas I burned driving to fill up).

I mention this because I've had an ongoing dispute with Dorman, the maker of the replacement tank I got from Rockauto. They claim that the capacity is 18.4 gallons (in fact all the replacements listed at Rockauto claim the same). How can that be? Toyota lists the capacity as 26.4 gallons. Well, the arrogant Dorman customer support rep told me I was wrong, there must be a mistake in my owner's manual...
Click to expand...

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

I just replaced my driver seat cushion with this. It was fairly easy (plenty of youtube available). The difference is incredible! I sit ~ 1" higher than before, and I'm no loner leaning to the left. It feels like a new truck!

https://www.usautoseatcover.com/pro...007-toyota-sequoia-driver-bottom-foam-cushion
Click to expand...

w666 · Nov 26, 2024

w666[OP] said: ↑

It must be valve cover gasket day! I started with the driver side. Seems fairly clean for ~ 240,000 miles.

Although every easy job is just one broken bolt away from being a 3 day ordeal. 9 bolts, and only one is broken! <sigh>

I guess it could have been worse. I can probably grab it with vise grips. I hope I can scrounge a spare bolt without a trip to the stealer.

Also, it doesn't look like I can reach the bolt for the dipstick without moving the compressor out of the way. I'm not in the mood for that. Does anyone have any tricks?
Click to expand...

w666[OP] said: ↑

Passenger side...much cleaner.

Click to expand...

Log in or Sign up

Welcome to Tundras.com!

The Story of My Tundra...

#1
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#2
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#3
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#4
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#5
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#6
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#7
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#8
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#9
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#10
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#11
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#12
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#13
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#14
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#15
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#16
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#17
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#18
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#19
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#20
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#21
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#22
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#23
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#24
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#25
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#26
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#27
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#28
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#29
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#30
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

Products Discussed in

Log in or Sign up

Useful Searches

Welcome to Tundras.com!

The Story of My Tundra...

#1 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#2 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#3 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#4 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#5 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#6 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#7 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#8 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#9 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#10 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#11 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#12 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#13 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#14 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#15 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#16 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#17 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#18 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#19 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#20 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#21 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#22 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#23 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#24 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#25 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#26 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#27 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#28 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#29 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#30 w666 [OP] D. None of the above

Products Discussed in Entire Site Forum: 1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)

#1
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#2
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#3
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#4
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#5
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#6
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#7
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#8
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#9
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#10
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#11
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#12
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#13
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#14
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#15
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#16
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#17
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#18
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#19
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#20
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#21
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#22
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#23
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#24
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#25
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#26
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#27
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#28
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#29
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

#30
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

Products Discussed in