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Tie Rod Castle Nut

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by robabeatle, Jul 16, 2024.

  1. Jul 16, 2024 at 10:15 AM
    #1
    robabeatle

    robabeatle [OP] New Member

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    Replacing the LBJs and removing by flipping the castle nut and pounding left it stripped. What/(where?) can i get another asap? Would Ace have something?

    Thanks (yeah next time use a puller...)
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2024
  2. Jul 16, 2024 at 10:16 AM
    #2
    Jack McCarthy

    Jack McCarthy Truck repair enthusiast; Rust Aficionado

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    Castle nut you’ll only get at the dealer.
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2024
  3. Jul 16, 2024 at 10:18 AM
    #3
    blackdemon_tt

    blackdemon_tt Battery Slayer

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    Maybe O'reilly while you get an OEM replacement. It will be Standard not Metric. Did that same on my mom's Camry. Took 3 days, but I got it replaced.
     
    robabeatle[OP] likes this.
  4. Jul 16, 2024 at 10:26 AM
    #4
    shifty`

    shifty` Pattern Against User

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    Dealer will 100% have in stock.
     
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  5. Jul 16, 2024 at 10:26 AM
    #4
    The Black Mamba

    The Black Mamba He must increase, but I must decrease - John 3:30

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    Imma keep it stock
    I thought I would assist in looking up a part number for you, but I'm not having any luck locating the castle nut by itself.
     
    robabeatle[OP] likes this.
  6. Jul 16, 2024 at 10:26 AM
    #5
    robabeatle

    robabeatle [OP] New Member

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    I'll call the dealer now. Thanks
     
  7. Jul 16, 2024 at 10:27 AM
    #6
    shifty`

    shifty` Pattern Against User

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  8. Jul 16, 2024 at 10:29 AM
    #7
    The Black Mamba

    The Black Mamba He must increase, but I must decrease - John 3:30

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    Imma keep it stock
    I'd be highly surprised if it is
     
    Tundra2 and robabeatle[OP] like this.
  9. Jul 16, 2024 at 10:39 AM
    #8
    robabeatle

    robabeatle [OP] New Member

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    Ordered a new one from the dealer. Should be in tomorrow. Funny the LBJ on the drivers side is still stuck after all that pounding with a mallet. I will rent a puller tomorrow as well.
     
  10. Jul 16, 2024 at 10:44 AM
    #9
    Mr.bee

    Mr.bee King Turdra

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    Something that should be mentioned on the FB groups, dont heat the knuckle. I've seen more than one get heat-treated and bend or crack. Press the ubj out after removing the c-clip.
     
    robabeatle[OP] likes this.
  11. Jul 16, 2024 at 10:49 AM
    #10
    NickB_01TRD

    NickB_01TRD You don't need less cars, just more driveway.

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    I used a pickle fork on mine. Cheap and as long as you aren't planning to reuse what you're removing it works great.
     
  12. Jul 16, 2024 at 10:49 AM
    #11
    shifty`

    shifty` Pattern Against User

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    UBJ are a bitch. I recommend just pulling the knuckle, honestly.
     
  13. Jul 16, 2024 at 11:08 AM
    #12
    NickB_01TRD

    NickB_01TRD You don't need less cars, just more driveway.

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    Also OP did your new ball joints not come with new castle nuts? I don't recall seeing your order part numbers but they usually come with new.
     
    Jack McCarthy likes this.
  14. Jul 16, 2024 at 11:10 AM
    #13
    robabeatle

    robabeatle [OP] New Member

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    Yeah, the castle nut that got fubarred is the one that attaches to the tie rod, it is the smaller of the two castle nuts on the LBJ.
     
    NickB_01TRD[QUOTED] likes this.
  15. Jul 16, 2024 at 11:40 AM
    #14
    MT-Tundra

    MT-Tundra Son of a Motherless Goat

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    This seems surprisingly common. Even when using a puller. I took the advice to turn the castle nut upside down and leave it flush with the bolt top, so that when the puller broke it free, the nut would keep things from going flying.

    That's good advice, but...the problem is there are different types/sizes of pullers. The one I used had a cup that was big enough that I wasn't actually pushing on the bolt, it was only making contact with and pushing on the castle nut. It broke things free, but with that release of pressure it also forced the castle nut down, stripping the threads as it went.

    I found nylock nuts at ACE to get the truck back on the road while I waited for the castle nuts to get delivered from a dealership.
     
    robabeatle[OP] likes this.
  16. Jul 16, 2024 at 11:46 AM
    #15
    Jack McCarthy

    Jack McCarthy Truck repair enthusiast; Rust Aficionado

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  17. Jul 16, 2024 at 12:37 PM
    #16
    robabeatle

    robabeatle [OP] New Member

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    Thanks as always for all the advice. I don't think that I want to buy a puller kit: too little use. I will rent a puller from O' Reilly and pick up the new tie rod castle nut. Hopefully things will go better tomorrow.

    BTW, I did complete the passenger's side and used the flipped castle nut and a mallet. I can't believe how much force was needed to break the LBJ free. After this job, the truck should be good for a long time. Just hit 200K miles on a trip from AZ to NY and back.
     
    FrenchToasty likes this.
  18. Jul 16, 2024 at 12:49 PM
    #17
    Jack McCarthy

    Jack McCarthy Truck repair enthusiast; Rust Aficionado

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    That’s their loaner program I showed. You get your $145 back when you return the kit.
     
  19. Jul 16, 2024 at 12:53 PM
    #18
    robabeatle

    robabeatle [OP] New Member

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    Doh, haha. I saw the price and thought "nope I don't need to buy that."
     
    Jack McCarthy[QUOTED] likes this.
  20. Jul 16, 2024 at 11:17 PM
    #19
    artsr2002

    artsr2002 2005 Tundra DC SR5

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    @robabeatle You did go OEM on the ball joints right?
     
  21. Jul 17, 2024 at 4:54 AM
    #20
    robabeatle

    robabeatle [OP] New Member

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    OEM plus 8 new bolts sir!
     
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  22. Jul 17, 2024 at 9:31 AM
    #21
    robabeatle

    robabeatle [OP] New Member

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    Puller made removal of the driver's side trivial.
     
    Jack McCarthy likes this.

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