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Tight and loose hub bearing

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Fieldnstreamer, Sep 16, 2024.

  1. Sep 16, 2024 at 8:14 PM
    #1
    Fieldnstreamer

    Fieldnstreamer [OP] Cold Researcher

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2020
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    First Name:
    Sam
    East Tn
    Vehicle:
    2006 DC Limited 4x4 Phantom Gray Pearl, 2000 AC Limited 4x4 (R.I.P.)
    Brute force bumpers/sliders, OME 3" lift, SCS ray 10 wheels, ARB onboard air compressor, GX460 big brake upgrade, JBA UCA's, siberian Bushings, RCV high clearance axles, 333 Billet steering rack clamp, TMR customs 10" front limit straps, 1" diff drop, agility customs dual battery setup/battery isolater with heavy duty wiring/ grounding cable upgrade, F-er battery tray, HFW spindle gussets, remote oil catch can,
    I redone my spindles from top to bottom with all new oem goodies and passenger side went together like a breeze except when pressing out the bearing. The race stuck to the hub and I had to heat and cut it off gently with a dremel and finish shattering it with a chisel. Everything else went together smoothly and the abs ring spins freely and so does that spacer ring. It actually has a couple thousandth of play up and down on the hub and I can ever so slightly wiggle it side to side. Like almost un-noticeable. But it all popped into place and I assumed that's how it was supposed to be.

    Drivers side got a couple day soak in areo kroil to hopefully let it pop freely off the hub if it would creep into the bearing race at all. We'll it popped off the hub like a dream and mission accomplished. I reassembled and the abs ring and spacer ring wouldn't freely spin so I thought I over pressed it so I backed the hub back out an 1/8th " or so and started pressing it back in one pump on the press at a time and checking the tension on those two things and then it sounded like it seated and now the abs ring and spacer do spin freely from one another but the hub is much more stiff to spin. I can almost but not hardly free spin the passenger hub but the drivers hub is much more tight. Not insanely hard to turn but it's eaily twice as hard to turn. I looked around and checking gaps between the outter seal and the hub and those gaps look to be the same but the only difference I can find is the tiniest amount of play differences in the spacer ring that sits on the abs ring. Going on about a 1000 mile round trip in it next week. Should I install and roll with it or is something over/under pressed?

    20240916_225359.jpg 20240916_225327.jpg 20240916_224727.jpg
     
    jerryallday likes this.
  2. Sep 16, 2024 at 8:29 PM
    #2
    Diablo169

    Diablo169 ROKRAPR

    Joined:
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    Max
    Santa Cruz
    Vehicle:
    06 Double Cab 360k+
    2” Lift, Bilstein 5100’s and 885’s second notch, Rear 5100’s Icon 3 Leaf Pack and Firestone Air Bags w/Daystar Cradles. Spider Trax 1.25” Wheel Spacers, 4Runner Pro Wheels, Falken AT3W 285/75r17 (34x11).
    Looks like your backing plate is bent o_O

    But, that shouldn’t limit your press from fully seating the bearing.

    When you ugga dugga down on the spindle nut that should pull everything together properly. I think that is the way it was engineered.

    The only way I could see damage being caused is if the bearing and hub were pressed in at the wrong locations on the bearing.

    Yeah and fawk this bearing on these things. I’ve rebuilt engines and t cases, and these bearing sucked.

    Here’s after one of my bearing exploded and left the inner race :frusty:

    IMG_5592.jpg
     
  3. Sep 16, 2024 at 8:42 PM
    #3
    Fieldnstreamer

    Fieldnstreamer [OP] Cold Researcher

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2020
    Member:
    #49085
    Messages:
    191
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Sam
    East Tn
    Vehicle:
    2006 DC Limited 4x4 Phantom Gray Pearl, 2000 AC Limited 4x4 (R.I.P.)
    Brute force bumpers/sliders, OME 3" lift, SCS ray 10 wheels, ARB onboard air compressor, GX460 big brake upgrade, JBA UCA's, siberian Bushings, RCV high clearance axles, 333 Billet steering rack clamp, TMR customs 10" front limit straps, 1" diff drop, agility customs dual battery setup/battery isolater with heavy duty wiring/ grounding cable upgrade, F-er battery tray, HFW spindle gussets, remote oil catch can,
    I think it's just the angle for the bent plate. Seems fine. I had everything set up in the press and just slowly pressed the spindle down onto the hub and the bearing slid right over. I wiped assembly grease on the surfaces and then wiped it of to give it the absolute smallest film residue on the surfaces. I'll cross my fingers and ugga dugga the CVs back on. I got new high angle rcv axles that are made from Toyota steel.

    This was my passenger side hub and race not wanting to get a divorce. 20240908_202523.jpg
     
  4. Sep 16, 2024 at 9:00 PM
    #4
    Sirfive

    Sirfive Master Procrastinator

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    Bassani cat-back
    Pretty sure the knuckles are heat treated, so it wouldnt be a great idea to heat it red.
     
    Fieldnstreamer[OP] likes this.
  5. Sep 16, 2024 at 9:48 PM
    #5
    Fieldnstreamer

    Fieldnstreamer [OP] Cold Researcher

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2020
    Member:
    #49085
    Messages:
    191
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Sam
    East Tn
    Vehicle:
    2006 DC Limited 4x4 Phantom Gray Pearl, 2000 AC Limited 4x4 (R.I.P.)
    Brute force bumpers/sliders, OME 3" lift, SCS ray 10 wheels, ARB onboard air compressor, GX460 big brake upgrade, JBA UCA's, siberian Bushings, RCV high clearance axles, 333 Billet steering rack clamp, TMR customs 10" front limit straps, 1" diff drop, agility customs dual battery setup/battery isolater with heavy duty wiring/ grounding cable upgrade, F-er battery tray, HFW spindle gussets, remote oil catch can,
    I didn't heat the knuckles to red. I heated the bearing race that was stuck on the hub. I ground an X into the race and heated it to red and then took a chisel and split it. Then it slid right off. I did lightly preheat the spindles on the knuckle before welding the gussets so that they didn't go from room temp cast iron to being welded on. I've welded cast many times. Preheating it is a general practice. The slower it can cool the better but I just let it cool naturally and they did fine. Plus fanning a torch over them burned off any oils or cleaner from my parts cleaner off so the new paint would stick better.
     
    KNABORES and Sirfive[QUOTED] like this.

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