Timing chain/tensioner failure

Hi All..
Bought a 2012 Tundra 5.7L w 135k miles in Feb 2023. No rust no accidents. Locally owned truck, not auctioned Around the country. Was CPO around 2018. Dealer serviced since new. Have full documentation. NO previous P0 codes etc. Metallic silver. Around 2 months later, timing chain noise on cold start. Got slightly worse and worse. 139k miles now. Mechanic was told to use OEM Toyota parts. I had him verify by showing me parts. But hope it's not knockoff parts. Accessory belt tensioner bolt frozen. Radiator and water pump and tstat was replaced by previous owner 2 years ago. Mechanic found leaking coolant t-hose front of motor under intake manifold. A small bit of oil seepage in valve covers. NO CAM Tower Leaks. Oil had UV dye mixed in. Truck was $17300 OTD. This makes it a $21k used Tundra. I hope it was an OK buy(?) First and only Toyota. I thought they are reliable?? Pic #2 shows the small pink popcorn coolant leaking just und we the intake front. The pic 1st pic is old timing chain passenger bank. Can see the chain slop from the 1st pic. The rest of the pics shows the new chains, new tensioners L and R.

Please enjoy the pics...

 

quikz,
I'm no stranger to Toyotas. A plastic timing chain guide in the 22R/RE was the nemesis of Toyota in the 80's.
I've owned and replaced many of them with metal-backed guides, which triples engine life expectation.

I also just bought a Tundra (two days ago) and I'm thrilled with your PICs, which show factory metal-backed chain guides.
Perhaps the water pump replacement didn't go smoothly: put a bolt in the wrong hole locking up the tensioner - a common mech error on the 22R/RE.
Your fix is very likely to cure what ails, after which you'll enjoy many happy miles of Tundra ownership.
Having just been shopping, $21k is a reasonable value given the market - it was a steal at $17k no matter what on-line valuators are indicating.

 

Thanks for your response. The water pump, radiator, thermostat and radiator cap was replaced by the previous owner about 2 years ago. Done at the Toyota dealer. Everything was done at the dealer since new by 3 owners. I am 4th. Thanks to a Toyota service writer who printed me the ENTIRE Rap Sheet going back to 2012 day 1. Only thing that makes me feel better is that the body is very clean, NO rust and NO accidents. Only thing was a ECU refresh of fuel pump under warranty in around 2013. And I am glad NO NO NO CAM Tower Leak(s). We enjoy the truck and it gets a good amount off roading. Nothing too extreme, just trails in NJ Pine Barrens. I'd suggest to all. When buying used Toyotas. Do a fully COLD start, with hood opened, windows down. And listen for at least, a few minutes or more. And ID any VVTi, AIV and Timing chain slap. Then, SUBTRACT that into your purchase price or Walk.

 

I’d have tried some 5w30 of a different brand, and/or a cleaner in the oil for a few miles before changing it to resolve the tensioner issue. I’ve seen those cheap remedies reported to work by others before. Cam towers are also not that big of a deal. Most seep and never even drip or lose any oil whatsoever and usually aren’t worth the expense to fix. 5w30 seems to reduce oil leaks in that regard as well.

All of that aside, hopefully you enjoy your ownership as most of us do once you have it back from the shop. They are indeed very reliable on average compared to other trucks, despite this experience.

 

Thanks for your response. Oil was changed by all previous owners at around 5k miles and ALWAYS by the Toyota Dealer, including front/rear diffs and transfer case, all done regularly. Yes we really like the Fundra and I always wanted/liked pickups for decades. But... I must admit unfortunately, that I am not that impressed with Toyota's. Oil burning loose rings, VVT-i issues, leaks, water pumps, starters, class action level recalls. 3 or more years before corrective actions are taken into production. No perfect car and Toyota's are for sure above average. But all these YouTube channels hyping up Toyotas, creating big dealer markups etc. I have a 2004 Nissan Sentra 1.8L with 155k miles that didn't get the Diva level maintenance that the Fundra got. The Sentra is still wearing the same dry rotted Michelin Defenders since 2010 and they work well still. NOPE. No timing chain, NO valve cover leaks, no other leaks either, nothing. I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 w Purolator Boss filter. The Toyota Tundra OE chains are *too thin and weak.* My decades old Cannondale full susp mountain bike has about the same level chain. But after this $3500 repair job, should as you said, give the Tundra AT LEAST another 100k + miles. But I only will put ~6k miles per year on the pickup.

 

With only 135k miles this in my book is a real Toyota screw-up.I bought one with 230k and have the chain slapping issue.I wished I would have studied this issue a little closer before buying.This write-up would have really helped.Anyways the screw-up is the driver side cam chain tensioner that can not handle the load due to not getting enough oil pressure.The passenger side tensioner is mounted far away from the rail pivot point giving optimum leverage verses the driver side which is mounted half way up the rail not having the same leverage.The driver side tensioner also has a steel shim behind it that nobody can explain to me why it is there.I assume to retain some oil behind the tensioner.Also talking to a Toyota technical adviser the driver side cam chain assembly gets less oil than the passenger side.I have done a engine flush with BG 109 and it did not help.Went to w5-30 and it helped a little but still there.Going to try Liqui-Moly next.After that I will dig into it and fix it.There is a spring in the tensioner and I can not understand why Toyota just couldn't put a heavier spring on the driver side to rectify this problem.Hate to put the same crap back in there.

 

Thanks for your reply. My mechanic said my passenger side tensioner was faulty as I recall. But will ask again. He is giving me back the old chain tensioners etc and I will analyze. Toyota updated the tensioner 's oil ports I believe maybe 3 times(?) By enlarging them I think. Anyway, the new chains are on and it's tight now. I personally believe these chains are TOO whimpy, along with poor tensioner design. Chains should have been made at least 20% beefier. Will post tensioner parts as I forgot to retrieve them last time...

 

Here are the pics of the old 2012 5.7 tensioners, guides etc, mileage 139k. Plus mechanic said one of the VVT solenoids was bad, drivers side bank. Grand cash total plus new spark plugs and a tire rotation = $3700.

 

Wow that is pretty dirty and lots of wear on the guides for 135k.How often was the oil changed and what brand?Mine with 235k looks cleaner looking down the oil filler hole.

 

My guess is 0W20 changed every 10k. 5W30 and shorter OCI will prevent this.

 

I would doubt the claimed OCI very seriously. Unimaginable amount of carbon and lacquer for such a cold engine like 3UR-FE is. This engine is good as long as oil is changed timely.

 

Oil was changed approx every 5k miles. And at the local Toyota Dealerships. I have full records. Before the last owner traded it in, he skipped an oil change.

My advice is for anyone looking for a 5.7L Tundra used, especially with higher mileage, to bring a timing light with you. To non-invasively examine any "play" in the timing marks. So if the timing light shows Wacky Dancing markers. Negotiate $8k off asking. Or WALK. Lol.

We still really like this accidemt and almost rust free truck. But the OTD was $17.3k. Now after this repair, it's a $21k truck. The trade in dealer had originally priced it for resale at $21,500. So I only saved on sales tax and a few minor things, (when all is said and done.)

So now, I am happy how it turned out as it saved me from a frozen/seized accessory belt tensioner allen bolt, small coolant leak under the intake towards the front. And got my slow leaky valve cover gaskets fixed "for free." But still love driving this beast. Lol.

 

I'm sorry, something does not line up.

 

Perhaps the dealer was doing an “Every other 5k” oil change as they knew the truck would be coming back every 5k.

 

No. I have the CarFax and dealer written records. Oil changes showed approx every 5k miles and all mileage at time of oil change service was noted as well.. Front and rear diffs, transfer case, was all serviced regularly. The PCV valve looked original. But I changed that quickly after purchase. The transmission was not. I had the dealer do a dump and fill 2 times. No issues with the trans.

 

I can't explain then why it is so dirty. That much of carbon can be usually found in hot European turbo engines with their long oil change intervals. Perhaps, the dealer was not fully honest and skipped some oil changes (and yes: CarFax is not a source of truth). And the oil he used was not the greatest. Toyota's 0w20 does not bake like that. It is actually a decent oil. Toyota 0w20 every 5k miles and the engine wouldn't look like that. Perhaps, it wouldn't have a chain tensioner problem neither.

 

For illustration, this was found under the valve cover of a ~15 y.o. 220k miles turbo engine known for its hotness that saw 10k miles "dealer-serviced" OCI and cheap dealer's oil. This engine bakes oil in 2k miles worse than Tundra in 7k miles. I too have the dealer records for that engine!

More oil flow near first cylinder:



Less oil flow near last cylinder:

 

I used BG 109 and then went to 5w-30 and my chain quieted right down. 260k original tensioner and almost all oil changes done by dealer. I’m hoping that it stays quiet...
I would say that the oil bake looks excessive too. My Tacoma has 400k and I have nothing like that. I’m a huge fan of BG products and would recommend both 109 (EPR) and MOA.

 

I did the same BG 109 then 5-30.Did not make huge difference maybe a little bit.Going to try Liqui-Moly next heard lots of positive things about it.We see.

 

BG-109 (EPR) did very little besides dissolving the rear main seal in my Volvo engine. Best you can do is a good oil every 5k.

 

Here are the chain specs. How worn are your chains?