Towing questions/concerns - 2017 Tundra SR5 4.6L

Hello Tundra community! I have a 2017 Tundra SR5 / 4.6L without the tow package - GVWR 6700 lbs. I got this truck with no intention of pulling anything more than a simple trailer with a couple dirt bikes. I now have a family and we are in the market for a 23ft travel trailer for camping. The trailer weighs just shy of 3800 lbs dry, cargo weight of 1080 + payload of people/gear we will be closer to 5000 lbs, give or take, at any given time.

Majority of planned trips will be more local, 1-2 hours away but we do have plans for a trip taking 6-7 hours each way. I understand a break controller is a must. The trailer has electric breaks and it looks like I will be going with a proportional controller. The truck does have a hitch receiver and is pre-wired for a trailer connection, though no tow package. How is the install? Is it any easier/harder to install with/without the tow package? It is possible the RV dealer may provide controllers/install but I am not 100% if they do or if I would want to pay for them to do it. Without the tow package especially, I am sure that weight will put some significant strain on the transmission, etc. I have read a lot of people recommending adding a transmission cooler - what is the consensus on that? I am not mechanically inclined enough, nor do I trust myself to do this kind of work. Any idea what this process entails and a ballpark cost to get a cooling system for the transmission installed?

Is there anything I have overlooked or any other recommendations for a towing noob such as myself?

 

You'll be using a weight distributing hitch, right?

 

check your payload- is on the sticker in the driver's door. 23ft is good for a Tundra or half ton. Weight is not bad at all. If the tongue weight of the trailer loaded, along with any thing your carry in the truck- luggage, dogs, passengers, etc is less than the payload your truck is rated for you are good to go. With that size trailer, I think you will be good to go, but check your actual payload number to be sure.

For controller, suggest you get a p3. great unit and cost is not bad. You probably want a good WDH as well vs trying to pull a 5000lb trailer with a bumper pull.

 

Yes, I neglected to mention I will be using a WDH, the dealer we are likely to buy from will provide a Curt WDH with the purchase of the camper, though I do not know what exact model.

Where exactly do I see the payload capacity on the sticker itself? I have a UPK51L-CTRSKA which the manual states "Vehicle capacity weight (Occupants + luggage)" is 1,435 lb.

This may be a stupid question; I have done some reading on tongue weight - how exactly would I know what to expect without physically weighing it using a tongue weight scale?

 

The sticker is in the drive door sill. It will list payoad, tire pressure, etc. 1435 could be right, but check to be sure. I really dont think you will have any issue pulling that trailer with a WDH however.

 

Noted, thank you very much for the input.

 

On the last question you can use a bathroom scale and lumber to bridge weigh your tongue. Google explains further.
I have '21 with nearly 200# less payload and even with the 114.5# of rear seats removed I'm bumping up against my payload pulling a 23' TT with a 6,080# GVWR. My truck GVWR is 7,200#.
The 5.7 has power to spare.

 

You said, it is wired for trailer but no tow package. You need to determine if it's the 3 or 4 wire flat plug connection or not to know if you have wires for charging battery in camper, running refrigerator and for brakes. This will be pre wired with 7 point round connector. The dealer you are purchasing from should have all the info you need and ability to make all connections and installation, if not their should be others in the area who can do this for you. The transmission cooler would be good but expensive and if you're not towing great distances (as said) would just monitor temperatures and make decision on that after you have some experience.
Good Luck,