Towing with 35" tires

Curious on how towing is affected by using 35" tires. I am considering the upgrade but need to tow up to 10,000 lbs. Will there be too much squat, and the tires will not clear? I was not planning on additional lift kit. The factory 1.1 inch lift on the pro should be fine with 35's.

 

I’d never tow 10k lbs with a Tundra regardless of the tire size. Tundras aren’t HD trucks. Making the load go is the easy part.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/axle-bearing-destruction.83251/

 

Is your payload and towing numbers even up to the challenge? The 35’s will be a lot heavier than stock so that in theory takes away from payload. Even though it’s the lowest center of gravity point. Not to mention all of the extra pressure put on all components. You’re in 3/4 ton territory in my opinion.

 

At 10k and 10% you are out of payload unless it's you and an empty tank

 

Toyota states 1600 payload and 11,000 towing. So what am i missing?

 

That is alot of weight for a 1/2 ton pickup truck. These auto mfgs usually cherry pick the truck and people think that because that is posted that all of those trucks can tow or get that kind of gas mileage. I am almost certain that the towing and gas mileage ratings on most trucks are for a 2wd stripped down truck not a well equiped 4wd.

 

Gotcha, what would you suggest to not exceed with 35” tires on the tundra pro? Trying to figure out if i want to make the jump from 33’s to 35’s.

 

At 11k towing, 10% tongue weight min = 1100 of your payload absorbed already. Weight of the WDH, wheels, tires, people, gear, suspension, light bars etc all reduce payload.

 

They don’t. They say for those numbers at very specific configurations.

Inside your door jam will show your exact payload capacity for your specific vehicle. I personally wouldn’t want to go over 76%-80% of that. Ymmv

 

If said trailer has good brakes and isn't a big wind sail I'd pull it over moderate terrain. Now, if it's a deck over and your parking a skid steer on it, that's not a good idea.

 

You’ve got competing interests fighting against each other. The more you setup a truck for off-road performance the less desirable/capable it becomes for towing. I only run 34” tires and don’t have a soft Pro suspension and I’d say 7,500 is about all I’d want to run. Mind you I’m on the prior gen which has lower ratings but also has leaf springs which are better for towing stability.

 

To try to help with your original question, I’m close. I currently have 275/65-20 load range E tires. That’s a 34.

We have towed our travel trailer about 5,000 miles since getting these tires. Tows it fantastic, and I don’t believe that the tires have hindered my performance at all. That said, it’s also important to understand gearing and how the bigger tires will affect things if you leave the stock gears in your axles…. I have 5.29 gears, and my power to the ground is better than stock gears/tires.


My next tires will be a 35” flavor.

 

I kinda missed your question about squat.
Going from a 33” to a 35” tire will not change your squat. Nor will it change the amount of wheel travel you have before hitting your overdo springs, and then bump stops. My thought is that unless you have really wide negative offset wheels, your tires shouldn’t hit the fenders.

 

Me: Yes? Rent-A-Trailer? Hi. I’d like to rent a travel trailer. How big? Oh, I don’t know, how big can I haul with my Tundra? Really; only a 19’er? That’s pretty small. Yeah, I understand. So, I’d like to rent a 32’er. My tow rig? Tundra. Yup. Still a Tundra. I know, you said my limit is 19’… I’m just wanting to see what it can really do. I’ll be careful. I just don’t know how big it can handle and want to find out! What??? Hello? Hello??

 

Watched the TFL video today (that is a year old) on the 2022 6.2 Silverado overheating with a pretty moderate payload. They also had a F150 ecoboost overheat previously as well. Sounds like overall design away from towing but owners towing near max is leading to this. For 35s you’d at least take away the % difference in wheel diameter 35/32: ~9%. Not knowing what the wheel and tire combo is the weight difference may be substantial (stock is 30ish for wheel +40ish for tire) to 35lb wheel? 68lb tire? Meaning a major rotational mass difference to overcome with a heavy trailer.

 

I think the answer sounds like keep my stock set up for towing, get 35's/37's for wheelin'

 

Damn, that’s no fun. I’ve been wanting to do this but it’s been my fear pulling a 30’ camper behind me would lower my towing capacity. I take it I could still change out the stock tires with something more like an all terrain tire that is E rated. I want to fill up the wheel well a little but at the same time keep things safe when towing. Any thoughts out there?

 

I ran e rated Michelin LTX AT2 on my GX when I used it to tow and they were solid. I believe that is the most aggressive tread Michelin offers and in my experience they are good for at least 45-50k miles.

 

Thanks Adam, will take a look at them.

 

Does anyone out there have a new Gen 3 tundra with 35's/37's and tow more than 6000lbs? What is your set up, and what have you noticed?

 

By G3 he means 22+ ...

 

Subscribed. Ive towed about 5,000 with my stock '22 Pro, towed as good or better than the Gen 2 it replaced.

 

I would add a few more pounds of air to the rear tires (maybe 4 or 5 psi) and use a weight distribution hitch (WDH). The TRD Pro has the compliant Fox suspension which I imagine would be quite nice offroading but would squat under the trailer load. A WDH would help level out the combination and provide some sway control as well.

 

Plenty of room... but you want to keep your rig level.

Which will result in a massive <0.5% slower acceleration at low speed, with negligible effect any other time. The tire diameter and the effect on gearing is a bigger issue, but that will still be minor with a 6-7% gearing change.

3rd gen's gearing is too high IMO, but with 10spd it's still lower than the 2nd gen in 1st. And it has more low end torque. If Toyota says you can tow 11k lbs in stock form, then E rated tires (even if 35s) and proper suspension upgrades, WDH, are going to make that more manageable and pleasant than a stock truck.

If the Pro has "soft" shock damping, that isn't ideal... but most offroad setups have firm damping. Stiffer suspension, E rated tires, and a regear, are common mods that work well in both situations.

 

I think new diff gears factor in a lot here.

 

28 foot Coleman camper 5400 lbs loaded. 18 tundra on 35×12.50. No problems. Trans temp 205 in the mountains.

 

Have the same tires, makes the truck look a ton better. Do yourself a favor and make sure the alignment is good(stock Pro alignment has been an issue), as it would suck for the outer edge to wear down quickly on your 2k investment

 

Beau·ti·ful set up, hows the towing with 35's? Any squat, rubbing issues while towing?