TPMS light flashing

What does this mean? Checked my tires. They're all good.

 

What does the owner manual say? possibly a sensor going out/low battery or something.

 

One or more of your TPMS sensors may be warning of a decrease in air pressure (check them with a tire pressure gauge) or a TPMS battery has failed and is no longer sending a tire pressure signal.

 

The battery life is about 10 years so that will most likely be your issue if the pressure is good.

 

Solid light = Low tire pressure
Flashing light = TPMS failure (sensor battery degradation/fail, transmit fail, receiver fail, etc.)

"Failure" can be any number of things, but is quite often communication failure, simply put, the battery in one or more TPMS sensors is probably failed and you need to figure out which one it is to clear it out, or just proactively replace ALL the TPMS sensors at the next tire change cycle. Worth noting that, for our 1st Gen Tundras at least, letting run-of-the-mill tire shops using generics or non-Denso sensors has led some members down a long, aggravating and sometimes painful rabbithole of incessant/random-ass TPMS behavior. Also worth mentioning: At least on my 2006, the spare tire also has a TPMS sensor, AND you need to know Denso sells a different TPMS sensor part number for alloy wheels vs. steel wheels (i.e. my 4 factory 17" alloys required a different sensor than my full-size steel spare!)

With that said ... can you do to diagnose the issue, see what the actual problem is, clear it out so the flashing stops? YES. You just need a reader that is capable of accessing the TPMS network inside your truck. There are products like the OBDLink MX+ wireless dongle that come with a free smartphone app which will let you hook into the TPMS ECU, pull codes, clear/ignore codes, etc. I posted fairly good details on how to do exactly that, over here.

 

And just like that, it quit flashing on its own.

 

Did you check the spare?

 

Expect it to come back at some point. It could be one sensor had a small snafu, stopped broadcasting. But considering the sensors you have may be original, as I was on my originals at 17 years of age, and they started failing at 15 years of age ... you may be in a similar boat.

My experience was similar, flashing was intermittent, first instance lasted a trip or two. Next time a couple days. then it became progressively more solid, although sometimes weeks between flashing.

 

I would bet that the cold tire air pressure dropped sufficiently to make a sensor report it as low and then the temperature increased due to warming making the sensor report "all ok". Has happened to me a couple of times...

 

It came back on (flashing) again. I started out on a road trip today. Maybe the long driving had something to do with it. The tires aren't losing air so I'm not gonna let it bother me.

 

I kicked myself for how long I went with the flashing light, knowing it took less than 5 minutes to tell the TPMS system to ignore the sensor, clear the code.

 

I may be out of line here, but I have the same. There is a button below the steering wheel to reset it if the system is operating. Mine is not. I have determined that two of my sensors are bad. I did this by checking all the air pressures. The light flashes. Then one by one, I deflated a tire. When the tire is low on air pressure the light turns solid. It's a 2006 with all original sensors so I'm not surprised. My question is do the TPMS sensors bought online and preprogrammed work? Does anyone have experience with any of them? Which ones did you buy? Do they work on aftermarket rims (I plan to buy)? And, are they as easy to change as I think they are?

 

That’s a pile of questions.

the sensors wirelessly transmit over 315mhz, and all each sensor has a unique ID it broadcasts in that band along with a chunk of data to define tire pressure. The sensor is battery operated but the battery isn’t always engaged, if I recall it is engaged by centrifugal force.

the TPMS system has its own dedicated ECU which is pre-programmed with the ID of each sensor so it knows what to listen for.

if the ECU cannot “hear” all programmed sensor IDs within X minutes of time, warning light flashes.

if the ECU can “hear” all programmed sensor IDs but one is transmitting LOWER psi than the threshold (by x%), warning light is solid.

each sensor has its unique ID sequence printed on the sensor itself; you should take a pic or write it down before install, you need that info to program the TPMS ECU after replacing.

new sensor install requires removal of the tire, and new sensor installed then torqued to spec.

for Toyota specifically, you should stick with Denso brand sensors.

important tidbit: there are different part numbers for alloy wheels vs. steel wheels. If you need help understanding which is which, speak up. Part number will be different.

look up the Denso part numbers at www.densoautoparts.com

DO NOT BUY on scAmazon or fleaBay unless you love getting fake parts and want to be doing this again in a couple years.

once all new sensors are installed, you need to connect into the TPMS ECU using a TPMS tool to wipe out the old sensor IDs and code in the new ones. Autel makes a respected tool for this, Toyota Techstream is usable too, instructions on YouTube.

alternately, some handheld tools like those Autel makes (if understand correctly) will let you “clone” the ID of each old sensor to the new sensor you installed. But I’ve never had to do this so dunno the process. Anyone on here that’s worked for a tire shop may be able to explain.

I think that covers most of it. Got any questions?

 

My first six vehicles did not have a TPMS. And yet I did not die in a fiery crash. I think I'll just learn to live with the flashing.

 

You don't need to live with the flashing.

Just go in and delete out the TPMS codes from the system. Use a basic bluetooth OBDII dongle that supported connecting to TPMS network allowed me to bypass the codes. Exact instructions are here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/obd-thread-pids-apps-dashboards.60459/page-10#post-3132384

I got tired of seeing the flashing after a couple of months, and felt like a total idiot when all it took was 5 minutes with the code reader I had on-hand to 'clear' the error out of TPMS ECU and ... no more light. I didn't even need to edit out the failed sensors.

 

My 08 lexus has had a flashing TPMS light since 2018 when I put on my 2019 avalon wheels. Maybe I need to look into this one day lol

 

It was such an easy fix.
I dunno if Autel’s TPMS tools (there’s a few) will tell you the actual ID of each sensor as it scans it or not, but IIRC they do offer you a programming mode that lets you scan each stem, connect to TPMS network, then write those sensors in. I just wasn’t about to pay the godawful amount of money they were asking.

But given I needed a OBDII scanner, and the MX+ comes with all the bells and whistles pre-unlocked inside OBDLink app letting me connect to TPMS network in the truck and nop-out the errant sensors… I just used that. And I was kicking myself for not doing it sooner. Autel’s tool for TPMS seems to be primarily catering to TPMS function only, not very versatile. With the MX+ I’ve gotten a ton of value out of it already. I do wish it added the ability to scan and clone TPMS sensors, but that’s more than I think a Smartphone can handle.

 

I have an Autel scanner that'll do ABS and SRS and such but no TPMS. Hate to spend more money on another OBD device at this point. I have 3 scanners. Maybe one day.

 

So… I’ve been looking thru a bunch of the obd scan/monitor threads in here and can’t find a definitive answer…

can we have five separate (4 down, and spare) tpms readings available for the first gen, specifically my 2002 ac sr5???

I mean I can live without it, but if I’m going to the end of the the web to set up a system, it’d be nice to have, right?

I’ll probably add a separate thread on a lot of questions on the topic of “best” scanner system, app, platform, etc…

 

I assume you could probably have 8 if you really wanted (Edit .... OK so you're limited to 5, see Bubba's comment a couple down from here). My truck currently has 5 sensors logged in. All four corners and the spare.

 

Very Cool!!!
Could I Beg you to say what software system, app, dongle, iOS or droid, and all the deets you in your setup??? I not too proud to outright copy, lol!!

I’m liking the concept of the Scangauge II, but I have a couple of old iOS units laying around… (there seemed to be a lot of discussion around both platforms, iOS or droid)

PLEASE????

 

Techstream is something available online in VM format, you can use VirtualBox or VMware Player to get it up and going.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrR78PogYw8​

You can see in this screencap how each sensor is stored. The hexadecimal 'value' field is the ID of the sensor, which is usually printed on the body of the TPMS sensor itself. You can also see the last value the sensor stored in the system. Note sensor with ID2 is "N/A", that sensor (whose ID is in the list above) is clearly not reporting. Another dead giveaway is its temp is showing a -40.

​

 

Sorry ya lost me? I’m guessing that’s how to add the separate tpms units into…? Guess I’m not there yet????

I was asking which platform you settled with? And maybe the details of your system….

sorry not trying to be a pta, just trying to cut thru all the fog….

 

I have a VM of Techstream on a spare laptop. But I haven't used it for programming TPMS as vid shows. I just used the OBDLink MX+ dongle mentioned earlier in the thread (I think) to clear out some TPMS codes. But I don't think it lets me program, just look at all the sensors etc.

There are plenty of videos on the 'Tube that show how to add/remove/reprogram TPMS sensors though. Or you can buy Autel's TPMS tool to handle programming.

 

Holdup. We can use Techstream for messing with our trucks? I have a similar program for my Ferd, FORSCAN. I've used it to enable/disable features on it and its way cool. How much scratch this Techstream gonna run me?

Is the option to change the timeout on the locks on there? I have lost count of the number of times I need something out the truck, hit the unlock button, walk out to the carport and the damn thing relocks as my hand is millimeters from grabbing the door handle. LOL.

 

The TPWS(tire pressure warning system) in an 05/06 Tundra will only recognize 5 sensors via the Tire Pressure Monitor ECU, whether one is using Techstream, Autel, Snapon or a reader capable of reading a TPWS system.

That is somewhat backed up by the fact that there are only 5 associated Transmitter ID's when looking at TPWS data from a capable reader and also by the DTC(diagnostic trouble code)'s contained in an 05/06 FSM.

Techstream is very useful IF one gets a proper cable and a safe download of the software.

 

You could just turn

$10 auto-lock 5pcs 12V waterproof push-button on-off switch, carbhub 12V waterproof push-button on-off switch with 4" leads for motorcycle/auto car

auto-lock off using RS3200 programming, inside the manual. You may want to look in there for the features available. I don't know that Techstream will allow you to change timing, I somehow doubt it.

Meanwhile ... Techstream is spendy if you license it directly. But there are a few copies of virtual machines you can download and load up on the internet. Archive.org was carrying those downloads for a while. But there are some caveats, like, you have no idea who created those or what could be in it, so I wouldn't run them on a laptop you care about, even though it's a VM, even if sandboxed. You also can't let the VM connect to the internet, lest it may check-in with Toyota and realize it's not licensed anymore. Those are the big ones, I think, Bubba may be aware of other stuff.

 

Door Lock timing can be changed by Techstream for either 30 or 60 sec, possibly also by Carista or a dealer if they will work with you and not charge arm and leg.

Door Lock timing change from my 04 via Techstream....

 

It's interesting, I checked the PDF for RS3200 I have (link), and it shows a 15 or 30 second auto-arm delay possible, but it's possible I'm misinterpreting it, or maybe that setting extends the 30 second delay to 60? Or maybe the 'delay' is diff't.

 

Haven’t looked at RS3200 too closely but the difference if any might be that 04-06 DC’s do not use RS3200 for the theft deterrent system, auto-arm delay in this case. Starting with the 04 MY, DC's use a Body ECU located up behind the Instrument Panel and was mentioning it more so directed at @artsr2002 as he has an 05 DC.

Those that utilize RS3000/3200 would have to say what the choices actually.