Transmission filter wix

Got 2. to choose from
wix 50830 or 50820. 2002 2wd V8. Here is my vin tag I think it denotes tranny to be a E not F

 

Sorry sir our parts counter is closed.

One's for a 2wd trans the other for a 4wd trans? Idk. We're just enthusiasts here, a parts vendor that carries Wix products should be able to help.

 

Honestly - and this was a very hard concept for me to come to terms with - Toyota's OEM filters beat the living shit out of most store brands. If I were you, I wouldn't putz around with Wix or any of the other aftermarket BS that most people will tell you is a "must use" on engines. Toyota is one of the few OEM brands out there whose maintenance parts are better than aftermarket and perfectly fit to keep their engines running as long as possible, they have a reputation to keep up, and their OEM parts are their assurance their reputation stays intact.

So which Wix, you ask? NONE. Only buy OEM filters. Period.

Order online for a discount and free pickup at your local dealership. All you do is go to the parts system @ https://part.toyota.com and put your VIN in the spot where they ask for it. Toyota already knows what your truck has in it and should only show you parts that fit.

 

Hasn't it been determined that it's very easy to snap or strip transmission pan bolts and unless you already have the pan off for another reason you shouldn't even bother with the filter as it's very unrestrictive?

 

Don’t disrespect that Tundra. OEM bro.

 

It's not a paper filter like in some other automatics, it's a fine screen. I don't believe Toyota has a recommended change interval for it. Personally wouldn't change the filter unless I was removing the transmission pan for some other reason.

Here's a good video on doing it. (it's Timmy the Toolman doing it on a 4Runner, but it's essentially the same transmission)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tuGazNhuEtM

 

Agree with others....OEM only but also agree with @tvpierce, "wouldn't change the filter unless I was removing the transmission pan for some other reason"

According to the Model Code, UCK30L, it is indeed an E....A340E to be more specific.

 

Replacing my trans filter was unnecessary. I only did it because The Manger(really hate that guy) ruined my trans pan so I had to replace it, which meant the filter would be easily accessible.

 

The key is to know ahead of time that the torque spec is in inch/lbs not foot/lbs. According to Tim's video, the FSM has it wrong.

 

What are the downsides of replacing the transmission filter other than potentially fucking something up if done incorrectly?

I ask because I bought an OEM Toyota filter and am pondering the option of dropping the pan to change the filter (and change out some old fluid). The truck has 188k miles on it with original filter and probably only 1 drain-and-fill done by me at 178k when I bought it. That kind of mileage makes me nervous, I hold the belief that any "filter" needs to be periodically switched out. But if it's actually technically unnecessary then I might reconsider.

 

Look at the video I posted above from Tim. He cuts the filter open after he changes it. It's not a traditional paper-filter media like an oil filter, it's just a fine mesh screen.

There's really only two things you can f-up on this job:
1) Over-torque the bolts. (Something like 45 inch/pounds for the filter, 65 inch/pounds for the pan. Don't quote me on those specs -- I'm going by memory, refer to Tim's video for the actual numbers)
2) Removal/application of the form-in-place (FIP) gasket material (essentially RTV). You need to clean all the old material off the pan and the mating surface on the tranny. You should use a plastic razor blade or plastic scraper because you don't want to scrape/mar either surface. Then apply an appropriate bead of FIP gasket material to the pan (or buy a filter/gasket kit that has a pre-formed gasket -- this is what I did). Then re-torque the pan in the proper order (crisscross pattern shown in the factory manual).

It's not hard, but why do it if you don't have to? You'd be doing your transmission more of a favor by doing another drain & fill. If you really want to do it right, after the drain & fill flush a few gallons of ATF out at the trans cooler in front of the radiator.

 

I'll check out the Timmy video, thank you much. Really appreciate all the info.
So I guess I just have this OEM filter now for no reason. I certainly don't want to drop the pan just so I can utilize the part so I'm not indefinitely hanging on to a useless filter. That would be nuts.

 

I changed mine when I bought the truck in 2005 with 99k miles on it. Looked like someone had already been in there as the pan was a little warped and the gap was filled with extra FIPG. Took a lot of scraping and a lot of reforming the pan with a hammer and a block of wood. Went fine, glad I did it. No science to say I should have other than the years of doing so on prior vehicles. Truck has performed just fine following the filter change. Still on the original trans at 265k with some heavy towing, but mostly normal use.