Truck feeling every bump on the road

I have a 2018 Tundra with 2412 miles currently on it. A few months ago I replaced my stock 18s steelies with an aftermarket 20s. My tire size is 275/55/R20 Toyo Open Country AT. Is it normal to feel every bump and every wave on the road which sometimes not all the time makes my steering wheel shake left and right?

I had the wheels balanced 3 times already at 3 different shops and wheels rotated. Had a wheel alignment checked as well. My tire pressure is set to what's recommended. I thought maybe my wheels weren't balanced or my alignment was off. But I still get that shaking especially on this long stretch of road near my house. But like I said it doesn't happen all the time when the road is smooth my steering wheel does not shake.

You guys have the same experience? Where you are feeling every bump on the road on your steering wheel?

 

Going from an 18" wheel to a 20" will cause you to feel more road vibrations and harsher bumps.

You shouldn't have the wheel shake back and forth unless balance is bad, alignment is bad, or possibly a wheel bearing going bad.

 

The 55 tire wall will pick up a little more bumps, but you will get used to it. You just have the 18" wheels as a reference, which I assume was a 70 wall. I have a TRD Sport that came with 20" wheels and since I don't have any other reference I think the truck is awesome. A lot softer ride than my old Tacoma. I think it is all relevant - give it time to get used to it.

 

Also, what is your tire pressure? I am used to running about 36 to 38. The dealer put 32 in it. I wanted to up it but saw that it was recommended to be that low. It makes quite a difference between 32 and 38.

 

I noticed feeling more of the road when changed to 20's from 18's. I knew less sidewall meant less "cush" and the probability of feeling more of the road.

 

I had the alignment checked it was fine. I only have 2400 miles and I haven't taken it off road and I haven't hit any curbs or potholes with the front wheels. I had it balanced 3 times and I doubt the wheel bearings are already going bad the truck is still a baby.

 

Yes it was road force balanced and yes I have stock suspension.

 

Tire pressure set at 35 psi cold reading.

 

Let the dealership look at it since it is under warranty. Something could have worked loose at the steering box.

 

Definitely something wrong. My BFG A/T TKO's are pretty smooth and I run 50psi. No shake, no wobble,

 

I went from 18's to 20's on my '06 F-150 and had nothing but balance problems.

I had 20's on my '11 Tundra Platinum and was constantly balancing them as well. Spin balance, road force, didn't matter. Unless the road was butter smooth they would causing shaking in the wheel.

When I bought my '16 Tundra I went back to the stock 18's because I didn't want to mess with 20's anymore.

 

I work at my local Toyota dealership and had my mechanics check everything in the steering all check out fine. That is why this is my last resort I'm asking you fine people for help.

 

What wheels did you get? Hub centric? What width and offset? How much heavier are they compared to your OEM? What are your alignment specs, most importantly you caster, left and right, caster cross amount?

 

Do you still have the stock wheels and tires? If so you could try putting them back on and seeing if the problem persists (this will help to narrow down if it is something with the new wheels & tires.

 

Black Rhinos

 

Side view

 

May need hub centric rings. Try putting stock rims back on and driving it. If it goes away, it's in the rim. I had to get hub centric ring for the rims I put on my tundra.

 

Just want to let you guys know that it doesn't shake all the time only when the road is uneven or wavy (like it has small ripples). Like for example there's a freeway near me when I drive on it shakes because the road has ripples but on other freeways its fine no shaking. Please don't think I'm crazy and paranoid. Just wondering if its normal for it to shake on roads that have ripples.

 

Nice wheels. As others have said having thinner sidewall contributes to that. Also have heavier wheels/tires doesn’t help. I went from factory 20’s to 18’s with Toyo at2. Ride is super smooth now. Maybe your just sensitive? What do your techs say when they test drive?

 

Huh, please explain I don't get it. How's that racist? Is that what you meant?

 

Low offset wheels increase bump steer, heavier wheels increase bump steer, wider wheels increase bump steer, lower profile tires increase road feel ( in this case bump steer). So you have done everything to increase your truck's tendency for bump steer. Best band aid to keep what you have is ask for alignment with maximum caster and minimum caster cross... this will increase your truck's tendency to track straight and reduce the steering wheel bump steer you are probably experiencing

 

Tires and wheel size have something to do with it but, I'm going to guess it's the poop ass shocks that come on these trucks. Not the worst ever but, you won't be showing them off anytime soon

 

the factory black shocks can get pretty "crashy" on bad roads

 

Thanks guys. Drove around with the factory 18s no shaking real smooth. Now I know for sure it’s my aftermarket wheels. Thanks again everyone.

 

Its actually probably not your wheels. It's most likely the tires. Your balance and alignment are good. What you've failed to recognize is that you went from an 18" P-metric, 6 ply, all season radial tire, essentially a tire for SUV's, CUV's and minivans. To a 20" LT 10 ply tire weighing somewhere in the neighborhood of 25 lbs more per corner, with lateral stability bars, wider, deeper siping a shorter, thicker sidewall and a wider footprint. Your new tires are considerably stiffer than your stock 18's. Also, if you look at the technical specs on the new tires, the weight, weight rating and ply are the recommended specs for 3/4 and 1 ton pickups with much heavier curb weights. Our trucks are heavy, but not heavy enough to make the carcass of the tire flex as it was designed to. Combine all of these things and you'll sacrifice some ride quality EVERY time.
To a lesser extent you also need to consider the roads you travel. You said that it doesn't happen on all roads. The ride on concrete can be much different than the ride on pavement. Even the lines in concrete and whether they run parallel or perpendicular to the direction of travel is enough to affect your ride. The concept is very similar to bed bounce which is almost totally related to road surface.
In the end, I would bet my mother's eyes that there's nothing wrong with your tire and wheel combo. It's simply the trade off of swapping comfortable, quiet, mileage rated tires that could get stuck in their own shadow for kick ass, aggressive tires that belong on kick ass Tundras.

 

Those are P metric tires with a 117 load per the pictures, they are not LT tires. He would have been running under inflated at 35psi if they were LT

 

Thanks for all your input guys.