Tundra Electrical Problems

The problem is with the positive cables connecting to my + battery terminal. I tried splicing it an it worked for a couple months but now here we are it got corroded an wet an it’s getting no power. I want to replace the cable going to my starter an the one going to my fuse box relay because they’ve gone to sh*t, not to mention to short an I’m not gonna try an extend these things again. What’s the best way to remove the fuse box to access this cable I tried prying it halfway before I said fk that not gonna break anything if I can help it. the one on the starter seems fairly easy to get to just a lot of it is covered by electrical tape an split loom coverings. Any advice on this?

 

There's no issue with splicing the power cable as long as it's done correctly. The question I have is how/ why it's getting wet and corroded? Ripping out the existing cable to replace with a brand new continuous length is more trouble than it's worth, IMO. Least expensive and aggravating option is to put in an environmental splice to lengthen the cable, crimp on a new lug to connect to the battery, and apply dielectric grease. Sorry I don't have any advice on your specific question(s).

 

I used a Gardner Bender style splice on my 94 truck. Lasted more than 100k mi w/o issue

 

Mind if I see a pic for reference? Did you connect both cables to that or buy two

 

Watch a video. You only need one kit and you don't need to crimp. You tighten the screws down to hold each cable end. Slide the heat shrink over the splice and heat it to shrink.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=w-3YjvKvhZo

 

If you are having repeated corrosion issues it probably gone through the whole length of wire just replace the whole thing and be done with it.

 

Repeated corrosion at the cable ends is not indicative of having water within the entire length of cable. Unless the vehicle and/or cable were submerged in water, the capillary action of the cable wicking up and retaining water is improbable. The corrosion is caused most likely by dissimilar metals (galvanic corrosion). Specifically, lead alloy battery terminals to copper wire in this case. Splicing the cable and protecting the ends with dielectric grease is the more prudent, least expensive, and less aggravating course of action.

 

Corrosion is most of the way through that wire. It might not have been originally but if this has been a ongoing isssue it is now.

 

I bet if he cut off the exposed corroded ends and stripped back another 1.5" the cable is still perfectly good. But hey, I'm just an electrician what do I know.

 

stripped it back an put it on this old splice kit I had wrapped the exposed bits in insulation tape an it’s starting up, gonna get everything checked out though it kinda took a second on first start up but it’s good so far, before the battery gauge was flip flopping sometimes it’d start up or be completely dead other times if I jiggle one of these cables it’ll fire up

 

Looking at the cut piece of cable, the copper look nice, bright, and clean at the cut. You'll have a good connection now without the corrosion resistance in turn causing your intermittent/ starting issues.