Tundra won't start--dash warning lights do NOT light up when key turned to on

I have a 2017 Platinum 5.7L 2WD with about 135k miles on it. I am the original owner and have all regular maintenance done at the dealer. The problem is that it now refuses to start--it cranks, but won't start. I also noticed that the instrument panel warning lights that normally come on temporarily when the key is turned to the ON position no longer light up either. I have checked all the fuses I can think of to check and they all appear to be fine. I am wondering if there is a relay or something that could affect both the dash lights and the fuel pump??

For background, I have had some long cranking/ hard starting issues for the past couple months. Took it to the dealer twice and let them know that there was a TSB issued that addressed this issue (T-SB-0166-19), but they said they didn't need me to tell them the number as I was told by the service advisor that "the tech will find it". (I should have known better...) They supposedly performed the TSB, but I don't believe it now, because, after carefully reading through the entire TSB, I am sure they did not replace my fuel pump as required by the TSB. I came across another forum post (here) who described a similar issue (minus the dash light problem), and he determined it was a problem with the fuel pump for him.

Anyway, after the second visit, the tech concluded my starting issues were caused by feedback from my aftermarket stereo (which is connected to the OBD2 port) that was installed almost a year ago. They said they would not diagnose it further until the stock radio was reinstalled. I think this is B.S., as the truck started and ran just fine for over 6 months with the new radio head-end installed. So I have been living with it for about a month.

Since the last dealer visit, I have found that if I turn the ignition switch to the ON position and leave it there for a few seconds, then I can turn it to START and it starts right up as it used to. I also noticed that when I turned the key to ON, the dash warning lights flashed once for less than a second, then lit again after another second or two, at which point I could start the truck. (The warning lights then went out, as is normal when the key remains in the on position and the engine is running.) Sometimes, however, the warning lights stayed lit (i.e., they didn't flash) when I turned the key to ON and I believe (but am not 100% sure) that I was able to start the truck immediately when this happened. (Again, after the engine started, the lights went out, as is normal.) This behavior leads me to believe there is some sort of connection between the dash warning light sequence and being able to start the truck--like the warning light test sequence and the fuel pump system are both getting power from the same relay, and now that relay may be shot. But I'm just guessing here.

I would very much appreciate the thoughts and advice from any master technicians out there, as my truck is now dead in my driveway and unless I can somehow get it started, I'm going to have to get it towed to the dealer (which is 25 minutes away). In the meantime, I'm stuck driving a 2013 Kia Rio, which kinda sucks as I love my Tundra--at least I used to!

Thanks in advance!

 

Can you temporarily and quickly disconnect the aftermarket stereo connections from the OBDII? Just to diagnose and instead of "reinstalling" the factory unit.

Or another quick(er) thing maybe to unplug or disconnect the stereo power to keep it out of the loop and see what happens.

then ask the tech to run the diagnostic tests again ...

Before you do the work, I would also talk to the dealer/tech to make sure that your temp solution is ok with them. I'm sure they want to help so no reason to escalate the issue at this time.

btw, not suggesting the new stereo is a problem but a quick way to eliminate the possibility and work with the tech. Also more details regarding the "OBDII Feedback" would be nice.

 

Yes, I am planning to disconnect/ remove the aftermarket stereo this morning to rule that out as the issue. Figured I’d need to do it before taking it back to the dealer.

 

Your theory of a failing relay sounds plausible to me, as the lack of warning light self-test at key on means there is an ignition power supply issue, or a communication issue between the ECU, body control module, and / or cluster.

I’d be looking at body grounds very early here, specifically the body ground on the cable from to battery negative to the inner fender. Take it off, scrub it clean with emory or scotch-brite, and make sure the contact surface on the inner fender is free of any paint.

 

Unplug your OBD2 doo-hickey and see if the problem goes away. Zero reason to uninstall your whole stereo if it just plugs into the radio harness. I usually don’t like the whole “your lift is causing your AC issues” from techs, but this case sounds very suspicious for aftermarket stuff affecting the factory system you’re having trouble with.

 

Did you attempt to read the trouble codes?

The instrument cluster and warnings lights are all powered the same. If your entire cluster is staying on then the warning lights still have power. The communication network is what controls turning the warning lights on/off.

I would bet your OBD cable to the radio is just pulling data from the communication network to your headunit. Gauge, Tire pressure data. It shouldn’t be a problem but unplug it to be sure. I had an ardunio data logger plugged into mine logging data from multiple ECUs for months with no problems.

Could you have a short in the communication line maybe but doubtful. You would see weird action of of needle gauges and other systems if that was the case.

I would lean toward fuel pump or fuel pump ecu. I have seen bad fuel pump ECUs do weird things to the electrical systems.

You have double checked every fuse in the engine fuse box as well as interior fuse box correct?

 

I did attempt to read trouble codes. There were none.

The entire cluster was dark...no lights. However, I found this morning that if I disconnect the ground terminal from the battery for a few minutes then reattach it, it works as it did before and will start. But the same thing happened when I turned the engine off (after running for a few minutes) and tried to start again--no instrument lights and it just cranked. I had to disconnect and reconnect the negative lead again to get it restarted. I had already reinstalled the factory radio by this point, so I just drove it straight to the dealer.

I did check every fuse I could fine--both in the interior compartment and engine room. All were good.

I just dropped off at the dealer again and gave them the full run down of the symptoms I've seen. For some reason (of course), when I shut off the engine at the dealer, the instrument lights came on as expected and it started back up (but still with long cranking issues). They said they would put their most experienced tech on it.

 

If the entire gauge cluster is dark it could be a power issue with the cluster. The fact is sometimes works and sometimes doesn't tells you the fuse is good.

I have a weird feeling something odd could be going on. Fuel pump ecu short sending bad signals to all the ECUS causing them to "reset"/freakout

 

If you are plugging into the OBD2 port for your stereo I am usuming you have the ability to monitor vitals from your new stereo? If so your ECU may see that as a issue until the stereo reboots when "key on" position then it recognize the foreign request to see data and then allows it and you then can start the truck. What stereo you running? What are you trying to monitor with that? I would start there as it seems more like a issue there then with the truck itself. Just my 2 cents.

 

UPDATE:

Turns out the telescoping wire harness that is attached to the steering column had some broken and worn wires. These were repaired/ replaced and all my issues went away. I’m actually amazed the technician at the dealer found the problem! When they told me over the phone what they found, I didn’t believe it would resolve everything, but it did. Amazing!

 

I am having a very similar issue with my 07 tundra. My entire instrument cluster gauges don’t activate when I turn the key to on. At the moment the it does crank, and does not start. Are you able to somehow show me where that telescoping wiring harness is? Mine could possibly be somewhat bad as well I just don’t want to tear into the wrong wiring on accident.