Twin turbo sr5 2011

So after a year of playing with designs and being forced to drive my play truck and all the attention I've gotten i figured I should post it up. Still a shit load of work left to be completed. This is just the start. Crap ebay turbos. 15 gallon fuel cell. Yes strapped as mounts broke. (Cheap one).. also this is just mock up deal with minimal operation as I've changed the way turbos sit 5 times and piping configurations hince the 100 connectors and different size pipes. (4 piping kts). No intercooler. From research the distance of piping has enough heat displacement to not need.
Truck was purchased 7 years ago as my daily work vehicle and then was pulling fifth wheel campers and a 10k loaded box trailer just about daily. Bought with 90k currently sitting at 275k. Had a 6 inch lift back then. Rear is currently on a 4" drop with about a 1.5 inch front drop. ( going lower on front later). Wife calls it my Mexican mobil as you will tell from pics. Replaced doors and now trying to determine the color I want.

 

Now my issue I'm hoping one of the guys here can inform me on. I don't want a piggy back system as of yet. Just wanting to run maybe 7 to 10 psi. Need a tuning software. Haven't contacted hp as of yet but only saw a 19 to 21 system. System is ran up to air box inlet without a boost gauge plumbed up currently I may have 2 psi on it. Know it's running lean and can not change the pipe diameter for maf sensor or truck wont start so will need a tune before I can connect it fully.

 

The ratchet strap and those wheels though. Never polish those, they look good like that.

 

Like I said work in progress with crap ton left to do. Have had to drive it for past 6 months so a lot was thrown together quickly as my 900 hp ram 2500 has been nothing but a head ache. 5 transmission in 2 years totalling 35k with out the price of 9k in revmax parts I just bought to build my self and have a different tuner correct tge mess ups from the last one which probably caused this trans to fail. Head gasket blow out and axle issues. The tundra has been the only reliable truck I've got. Even with all my b.s. doing to it she keeps going. Does have 529 gears from when it was lifted and keeping them in.

 

Lol there going to be redone in a different color. Haven't cared to was nor clean any of it until I decide on which color purple I'm going with

 

Sooooo fucking cool! Need more pictures of, well everything. How is the piping run up to the engine? Is space a pain in the ass? I was just talking to my wife about a rear mount turbo setup on our GX460. How are you plumbing into the engine? Do you have wastegates, I see one on the left? I assume each turbo is run from one cylinder bank? What size turbos?

The most useful generic boost thread is this (we don't exclude turbo guys ): https://www.tundras.com/threads/general-supercharger-thread.85513/

There is also a thread from a company called TurboKits that recently started making front mount single turbo kits, but there's only like two or three people that have got them so far and they're still doing testing, but that thread is here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/turbo-charging-a-tundra.115951/

Tuning wise, these days there's a couple options, as you said HP Tuners is probably the most dominant but VF Tuner is another software you can use. VF Tuner used to be a cluster fuck and difficult to use as a DIY product, but maybe it's gotten better, most of us use HP Tuners since that has a lot more documentation and support, though VF Tuner is probably the more powerful of the two softwares. As far as I'm aware the tuning difference between a turbo and supercharger isn't that different though, and the Tundra has very limited tuning ability to begin with, so I would think most of the supercharger derived tuning methodology would correspond with the turbo setup. But maybe the turbocharger guys (primarily @centex and @bflooks ) have more insight into tuning differences and what they're doing compared to the supercharger setups, if it is indeed any different.

For your questions (or comments) about MAF and stuff, the tuning for MAF tube size and fueling is pretty straightforward and simple. I've tuned a couple trucks (albeit not turbo setups) and would be happy to give you some instruction and support for setting up your tune. HP Tuners will run $600 between buying their MPVI and then the credits to unlock the ECU.

 

Love it!!! Plus is has different colors on the truck!!!! My vote would be for some really obnoxious color that sticks out like a sore thumb!!! Very Cool indeed!!!!!
You need this over at the Turbo Charger Thread! Best of luck to ya on getting er all finished up and melting the rear tires off that thing! HA!!!!!

 

Welcome! We're in the process of changing the Turbo Charging a Tundra! thread a little bit to become more of a General Turbocharger Thread like @snivilous has done for the SC folks, so feel free to contribute. While it has been focused on the Turbokits.com solution, it's really meant to be all things turbo for the Tundra.

Pretty sweet setup, but I do have so many questions about it. As @snivilous requested, more pics of all of it.

Regarding the plumbing, interesting choice in sending it through the air filter. Do you have details on the pipe sizing from both turbos to the merge and then forward? Do you also have the turbo specs? I'm intrigued by your choice of twin vs just a single for such low boost, but the specs will help explain that, I'm sure. I'm also curious to see if you have been able to do any sort of flow testing to determine how much flow loss/restriction there is with that method of delivery.

If you are running out of MAF, you can ping Jesse (@TurboKits ) at Turbokits.com to discuss his upgraded MAF. HPTuners is what we're running. No brand loyalty, just the broadest ecosystem supporting it. From a tune perspective, as @snivilous mentioned, it's not THAT different at all. We get into boost slightly different just by design, but it's all still the same. @TurboKits is a Tundra enthusiast, so you'll find him cool to speak with. You don't happen to already know him, do you?

I'm sure you already know this, but you need some sensors on that system. OMG, soooo many questions. Nice job and can't wait to see where you take it.

 

Thanks guys. Currently rushing to keep some jobs completed as soon as I can I'll get more photos and info put on here.

 

Well just found out right turbo took a crap. Blowing oil through it. Just stuck in air box currently to see if it would make a difference. Does some but in reality if I gain something I'd be surprised. 20 hp would be surprising sitting like this. Had to put finishing up on hold as I'm working out of it until I finish my 68rfe build

 

Nice!! Thats some serious plumbing

 

That is a lot of plumbing!

Bummer about the bad turbo. Hopefully a quick rebuild will have you all patched up and ready to continue down the path. Looks like you've got a few other goodies on there, too.

We're averaging ~30WHP/psi as a baseline. It's not really an apples/apples comparison, but it is a number to have in mind as you work through things. Also worth noting, that number is via a kit developed and tested for production. While it sounds fair to say a turbo should do turbo things, it's absolutely not. Flow, temp drop/energy loss, fitment and packaging of the system, and lots of other variables were mostly figured out by Jesse. I respect your fortitude and energy to do this yourself.

 

I'm no turbo plumber, but I see some things that make me go hmmmm. That is one heck of a project to take on, especially if you're having to daily it rn.

 

@snivilous has a truck that looks similarly cool AF!

 

My understanding on the tuning is that the MAF is tuned differently since turbos come up on boost quicker than a supercharger that's more linear in nature but otherwise it's not to different. I'm also not a genius with HPT so take it for what it's worth.

Gotta ask but why all the couplers instead of just a long piece of pipe with a coupler on each end? How are you doing the oil drain? Scavenge pump? That Y on the intake side has got to be causing some wonky stuff. Normally I see twin turbos feed into an intercooler and then they merge there and go into a single throttle body. I guess it works though. Are you using meth or anything to keep the intake air charge cool? What are your IAT's like?

 

Welcome from LA (Lower Alabama)! Awesome project! I wish I had your skills!

 

Welcome from NY.

 

Welcome from NC

 

The multiple couplings as there are 3 different piping sets that I've used to find where I wanted to plumb everything and get an idea of the area. I have a piece of pipe I'll be using to eliminate the multiple 18'' pipes. Also this is just getting it set up and see what it will do. Once I'm ok with it everything will get swapped out with quantity parts not these ebay crap items.

Iat I'm not aware of as that is another item i haven't plumbed in. As far as engine temps while pulling a trailer (16' loaded at 80 mph) never goes over 194° which is standard for her since the day i bought and we now live in west central flordia. Again it's not building any real boost as just thrown in the air box port so anything over what the throttle body will allow as well as the opening around it letting anything building to be minimize is minimal. Does cause a lean mix on o2 readings from the original rich code i did have from straight exhaust before turbos.

The trucks been like this for over year now just kept changing how the turbos sat in the back and finally settled with them like this. Dropped the tank and all the other hardware (flex fuel truck) relocated with a 15 gallon cell. Dual aem 300 in line pumps and inline filters next to each pump. The fpr basically stays wide open. No fuel gauge as need someone to make the wiring harness to adapt to the basic style fuel gauge in tank to the low voltage regulated system of truck or ill just run a bullshit gauge. Like stated before 529 gears in rear and front (4wd) leaving them. Oil return pump just ran to top of valve covers currently..

No intercooler. Y piped at turbos instead of running further up to eliminate turbo lag with the extra piping if it ran two sets all the way up. Based my setup off what I've seen some corvette turbo builds as with them mounted under the rear bumpers. In theory with turbos away from all the engine heat and able to stay cooler the heat build up should be a lot smaller than if under hood. (Just hypothetically speaking) with the turbos set like they are in get almost instant boost as you can feel when they start to add something to the truck at around 2400 rpms and spool super fast with them being so small. Attached are the kits I bought. Just b.s. ebay kits until I get it set up exactly how I want then going to do a stainless piping with precision turbos and push the boost up. My goal is to see how much this stuck 280k motor will hold before it blows up with my heavy foot. This is the reason it's been on hold as I need it right now. Driving it has saved us 9k in rentals over the last few months. Which is exactly how much I spent in transmission billet parts for my daily.

I originally set the turbos pointing backward where charge was going out back then was running piping down driver side through fender well into bumper where I was going to run an intercooler and then up. But at that point I might as well push the truck. Just entirely too much piping and knew after running it there was going to be entirely too much lag. So played around with ideas for a couple months until I got here back in October.

Still need to plumb in bov redo oil lines (too long ) replace the cheap ebay oil returns with quality hosing and an connectors. Get base tune to operate truck under boost at start up. as it is dumping air out on idle from the pipe now. Kinda significantly building which i found to be odd but assume from there small diameter and designed for 4 and 6 cylinder applications that maybe the exhaust flow is heavier on our trucks causing this. Not a complaint though.

Will be no bed going back on. Want to do a rail system like a trophy truck style in the back. Truck will be a purple with neon high fiz greener yellow wheels and accents around. Interior I've got all new handles and pieces to replace where working out of the truck has destroyed the panels. Have a dual 15" sub box that takes up the back seat with 8k watts to them and all rocker components with tweeters and added tweeters on side pillars running on a 500 watt amp and tweets under head unit power.

My thoughts.
When this blows up (as I know I will push this motor far past it's limits at some point) I'm thinking of doing a full ls3 conversion and removing everything (dash related) and doing some race car dash setup with a mini ac system. Just thoughts right now. Reason behind this is i known for sure i can build reliable 1000+ hp daily power with one and matching transmission behind. But I haven't dove into the building of these motors and transmissions to make a definite decision on this..

Goal for now is to see a decent power gain when finished of roughly 75 to 100 hp. Feel thats doable with a good tune. May need some changes to items to make possible. Once thats done then the boost will be pushed with injectors being swapped to get enough fuel in. Kinda want to do an all around drift/course/drag/ignorant weekend play truck.

Sorry for any rambling lol. Again really far from anything finished but the literal amount of people stopping me every day asking for pics and videoing my truck as I'm driving figured I get ahead of questions coming out on forums (not on social media anymore) and give the info I get asked a lot about and hopefully some info I need or opinions they may spark an interest on changing something around.

 

Oh Geez. The maxpeedingrods guys are shamsters with the lowest quality of parts. Super interesting build, love the trial and error approach. With a 15 gallon fuel cell you only get like 100 miles or so of range though right? Adding another cell or a larger tank later?

 

With the Stage 1/1.5 kit from Turbokits.com, we're seeing ~500WHP ~450WHP/500WTQ at ~3/3.5psi. Your goal of 75-100HP is very much within reach once you get some of the other things sorted.

The idea of trying to send oil that far back seems like an oiling system issue in the making. Maybe consider a dedicated oiling system mounted out back with a dedicated cooler for the turbos?

Do you know what weight springs you are running in your wastegates and what will be in the BoV? Do you have any sort of heat mgmt on the hot side exhaust to maintain efficiency?

The BoV placement in that system is going to be interesting as well. That's a lot of air in that length of tubing. Just adding the 4-5' of tubing for the intercooler on mine completely changed the BoV sound from a a quick burst to a longer duration, almost like someone focusing on their breathing and longer exhales, if that makes any sense. Lots more air to purge. I'm curious what the pressure relieved at one end vs the other does to response and tune, especially when letting off after a pull. Does relieving the pressure waaaaaay out back by the turbos actually accelerate the charge at the opposite end of the tubing, giving you a surge? Or does it not matter? If it does matter, I'd be trying to avoid that by putting the BoV at the engine side. I'm not saying this is how it works, I'm genuinely curious to hear what you've found and what you end up doing.

I get the draw of going LS for a swap. Cheap and easy to get to your desired mark, as is well captured on Engine Masters. It just seems morally wrong to do that to a Toyota. lol

EDIT: Minor adjustments in HP number. WHP is ~450. WTQ is ~500ft/lbs.

 

Sick, sick sick, and I love it!
Amazing how much fun can be had with a couple of cheap chinesium turbos.

As much as I'm an LS guy at heart, I'm kinda sad it won't be staying Toyota powered long term.
Completely understand the reasoning though.

Welcome, and looking forward to more progress.

 

An LS Tundra would be sweet. Tons of power, tons of reliability, drop some weight, could throw a 4l80e behind it easily, Holley terminator efi. That thing would be rowdy and cool and still have more reliability and a bigger cab than the Chevy version.

Could also move the turbos into the engine bay with the amount of room that would be opened up. Do a back half on the truck. Oh ya. Fun truck.

Now where can I find a tundra with no drivetrain…..