UCA's to get CV grease to stop slinging?

I just called my local shop. 4.6hrs at 120$ an hr to replace the CVS. I don't gave alot of room in my gravel driveway at the new place to lift my truck.

They're telling me with the lift I have that if I put the new CV's in they're gonna sling too and to purchase UCA's before install.

Everyone here says ucas are not needed.

I don't know how much lift I have. The manual for the 5100s said notch 3 was only 1.7" The reverse rake was dramatic after lifting the front so I added the icon add a leaf kit and kept the over load spring. This put it at a slight rake which looks perfect.

When I did this my cvs dumped their grease. When I bought new boot kits and had the boot kits swapped they dumped all their grease a few days later.

So my question is what ucas should I buy. I'd like a uca that doesn't come in contact with the spring bucket and that has a greasable fitting.

If you still don't think I need ucas what do i do if the remans I bring in start slinging too after install? I'm getting tired of dealing with it. I can drop the truck back to the 1st setting and remove the icon add a leaf if needed. Just tired of dealing with it.

 

The UCA's help with alignment. If you are happy with the alignment then not needed. When I did my lift the cv's leaked. I didn't know about re-strapping them so I got new remans and they leaked for a bit then stopped. Been fine for 3 years and over 50,000 miles.

What is the measurement from center of the hub to the fender?

On my sequoia, my cv boot was torn for 2 years before I fixed it and no clicking or issues. These cv's are pretty durable so if it leaks a bit of grease, I'd just run it.

 

22.5" was surprised the back was the exact same. They're slinging too much. They are brand new boots and straps. I have a set of remans in a box ready to go.

The angle of the photo doesn't look like hub center but it is.

 

search "Porsche cv boot" or get some OEM ones since those seem to not tear like a used condom.

+1

If you're not having alignment issues and aren't rubbing. I would ignore the UCA's or just get some new UBJ's just to keep things fresh

 

Everything on the truck is oem.

 

Porsche boots allow more angle so you shouldn't be slinging shit.

oem ones are the only ones I've seen take extensive amounts of angle before tearing.


EDIT: let me explain. Your UCA's don't dictate your CV's slinging grease.

the grease sling is an entirely different issue. Your boots need to be replaced with high angle boots or new OEM ones clamped tight as fuck, to keep them from slinging grease.

new UCA's will NOT magically drop the angle of the cv joints.

New UCA's will help with alignment issues due to lifts and oversized tires.

 

I had new boots put on and strapped then restrapped again after they failed a day later. I've been running them for about 6 months but I only drive this thing 5k a year at most. This is a new toyota oem boot kit on the axles.

I understand what the Porsche boots do I'm just not going through all that.

Im asking if the new cv axles I have in a box are going to slip as soon as they reach my lifted angle and if there is something I can do to prevent that.

I guess the shop was misleading me thinking that ucas affect cv angle when the do not.

 

based on your current situation. It makes sense your new boots will slip after awhile.

Welcome to modifying trucks.

do the porsche boots (a proven method to stop slinging grease after a lift on 4x4 tundras)


Or return your new CV's and go buy new CV's with high angle boots already installed


or don't lift your truck.

 

What about an axle drop?

I'll look into the porche boots but I scheduled the cv install on Monday the 24th. I don't want to wait any longer and keep driving on mine.

 

you have the answers?
That didn't even come to mind (I own a 2wd) But it should help.

 

Because I'd rather sell the truck than keep dealing with this bs. Close to washing my hands clean of it. Can't even lift 2 inches without it going to shit. My 96 tacoma drove for 15 years 484k on it before it died. Never gave me this many problems as this truck has in a single year.

Going to order a diff drop most likely. Looking into it now.

 

The diff drop on these isn't very good, it doesn't fully drop the diff, just tilts it forward. Can you squeeze the clamps tighter on the cv's?

https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/cv-boot-clamp-pliers-163

I'd tighten the clamps, clean it up and then keep an eye on it.

 

I tried to tighten them with my toyota cv strap tool without luck. I have new straps sitting here as well but they've lost all their grease most likely now that it's been a couple thousand miles. I'd have to pull the axles out pull the boots back and repack at this point. I would have to do this at a park since there is no room at my house. I'm a logger and log 56 hrs a week usually I just took a day off for a break and do deal with my other problem with air fuel. So I don't have time to constantly mess with this truck. Leaning towards selling it if the new cvs start slinging after install and I can't figure out the air fuel issue.

My buddy will give me 20k for it as is but I'm about 25k in after a year and a half with the truck. Paid 17.5 for it.

 

Using this would also help to make sure you get a perfect crimp

$20 ZKTOOL CV axle Boot clamp Tool Compatible with Toyota/Lexus etc,CV Boot Clamp Pliers,Drive Shaft Clamping Tool,Widely Used Hose Clamp Tool,09521-24010…

Amazon.com: ZKTOOL CV axle Boot clamp Tool Compatible with Toyota/Lexus etc,CV Boot Clamp Pliers,Drive Shaft Clamping Tool,Widely Used Hose Clamp Tool,CV Joint Axle Boot Clamp Tool,09521-24010… : Automotive

 

This is the tool I have. It says toyota on mine tho

 

Here

https://www.cvjreman.com/product-tag/9550/

 

I've had multiple back and forth emails with cvj. That's why I bought the remans from toyota instead. They told me their boots don't last at all and the quality of the available cvs in stock are diminishing. I'm going to swap with new cvs and if I have issues I'll either sell it or take the boots off my old ones and look into porche. But I'm probably gonna sell it at that point for a 2021. Questions answered. Thanks.

 

Who put the new boots and clamps on those axles? It looks like they just did a poor job of it to me.

The lift doesn't appear to be your problem at all and UCAs will do nothing to solve it. They just need to be rebooted properly. If the fins touch, then you'll need to do the boot slide mod (super easy).

 

actually what he said was the 9550R uses an aftermarket boot.

While the 9550TR uses OEM.

You should of "bought once and cried once" the 9550TR

 

Then how is the TR any different from a regular oem axle if it has the same boots.

 

::sigh::

the TR uses the Porsche inner red boot AND the oem outter

the R uses the Porsche inner boot and an aftermarket neoprene outter

 

Better off road in oak harbor wa. I drove to the ferry and the driver side shit all its grease by the time i got there. So I slept in my truck and made them restrap it the next day. A week later all the grease shit out the passenger side. Both are slinging now though. I did a charge back on my card for the work.

 

The outers on both are the ones that are actually leaking. Not the inners. So if the high angle and porche bs only applies to the inners it's moot anyway.

Probably gonna hand the shop an icon diff drop with the axles.

 

btw if you look at your other post. Not sure if you know, but your oil pressure is extremely low. Unless your oil pressure gauge is broken. Should probably look into that as well before dumping more $$$ into a truck that may grenade itself

 

I just replied with a video.

 

Skip the diff drop. Seriously. Remove those notched bands and get some worm drive bands. Pull the boots back, refill with grease to replace whatever has been lost. Clean the area to be booted and banded till you could eat off of it, and I mean a full degreasing of the surface and inside of boot lip. Then use the worm drive clamp to achieve maximum tightness. I’ve been running 2” of lift for 18 years and don’t have any slinging.

 

Your high! Well your gauge is……
I’ll take a pic of what mine has always been, when I leave work in a few, cold(100degrees) start

 

both my friend. Both......

 

What I'll do is have the new ones installed and then do that to the ones on the truck now when I have time. I looked into the worm style but it looked like I had to use 2 on each side of the boot to keep the cv balanced from what I read.

 

I've seen trucks with much worse CV angles not sling grease nearly as long as you state these started slinging.

So I'm not really of the opinion your lift is too high to where you need anything special like Porsche boots or high angle boots. High angle boots are usually garbage anyway. Assuming a decent installer did the reman work on the axles you're about to have put in, you should be fine going forward.