Upgrading lift and deleting the rear blocks... Help.

Hey guys,

So I'm wanting to get rid of my rear block and want to hear about some options.
I currently have a 7inch ProComp lift with the ES9000 shocks in the rear. Prior to putting the lift on, I towed my family from Oregon to California and had a load on the truck for about 3 days. Needless to say my leaf springs aren't superb. I want to replace the them because my truck sags in the rear and seems as if it's a solid 2 inches lower in the rear right now.

I want to go ahead and replace the rear leaf springs and while I'm at it, I was thinking about just deleting the block and I'd like to hear about some options that yall might have done. I have the Bilstein 5100's and was debating getting 8inch leafs for the rear and bumping the 5100's up an inch. I can't seem to find 7inch lift leaf springs but was able to find 6 inch. Id think i could get 6inch ones and add 1inch or 1 1/2 inch shackles. I plan on going with 37 13.5r20 once i get this done. For some reason, the 35's on my lift just look tiny and very disproportionate.

I also wouldn't mind getting rid of the spacer in the front but that might be a thread I can search around for some info on. Any help would be awesome. If you have suggestions, try and post a pick or link to what you suggest or prefer. Thanks yall!

 

What exactly is your front setup now?

 

The big gawdy spacer, stock everything with bilstein 5100's. One thing i do not like is the angle on the UCA's. It almost seems like the spindles are too short.

 

Longer shackles flatten springs faster because the longer shackle forces the springs down even further unless you compensate with a proper heighth bump stop to prevent it. That may be what happened to your current springs.

 

I'm still learning on this part because Alcan said the factory shackles are too short and longer shackles are required for their springs.

 

their lift spring is longer that oe im sure.



op, your spindles arent too short, you’re just pushing a lot from your suspension geometry. You have a drop bracket lift. Measure how much everything is dropped. You’re then wanting to add more lift to that with increased angles. Its too much imo

 

The point is the bump stop heighth is what can help prevent flattening of the springs. You can certainly use a longer shackle, just need to compensate appropriately.

 

Gotcha. I will be using my Toytecs at 1.5 with the springs. I think it was you that said look at the Sumos versus the Timbrens?

 

I ordered the springs with 1/2 inch of lift so that I can remove the 1/2 blocks that I have. I will be using my Toytec shackles at 1.5 for the rest of the lift. Just trying to learn what I need to prevent the new springs from going flat. I am still irritated that my springs are shot at 13K.

 

My current springs are the ones that came on the truck when i bought it in 2014 with 2 miles on it. I almost certain the springs are flattened out due to hauling everything i own, including a car and trailer, for 3 days. That load was on the truck the entire time. I just hate the lower rear. There are no shackles there now. Just the lift blocks that came with the lift.

 

So for me, it's not about pushing as much lift as i can and I know the spindles aren't too short but it seems that way. There has to be a way to improve the geometry on the UCA's... should i go aftermarket for some? That doesn't seem like it would fix the problem as the geometry would still be the same.

 

Tundra springs are pretty soft. They get beat up over time on a stock truck, running a 4 inch block will warp them in no time.

 

That's what I'm trying to get around currently. I want to eliminate the block but keep the lift i have. there has to be options?

 

Best option is lift with springs.

 

That's what i was thinking. I have a Procomp 7in lift, would that entail 7in leafs?

 

It would depend on your desired finished heighth, shackle length, constant load, etc. You will need special length shackles and special heighth bump stops to get the most travel out of it. My advice speak to Deavers and prepare to open your wallet.

 

It's going to be somewhat of a christmas gift from my bonus this year so it'll be worth it. I'd much rather than roger up and get it right than go through springs ever few years. I don't anything so there's no worries there. Maybe once or twice a year. Even if i can go with a smaller block and bigger spring? I've never had bump-stops.... what are those for? and thanks for your help man! very much appreciated.

 

Bump stops form the final point of contact for stopping flex once the suspension reaches full compression. If you don't have any, that is why your springs are getting destroyed. You can find a whole bunch of examples, google tundra axle bump stops, click images.

 

I have a similar issue im dealing with I just purchased the deaver u748's with camburg's 1.5 inch shackles. i have a 6inch lift and use timbrens and have blocks in the rear from the lift kit do i install the new springs without the blocks? and would i still be level ride height or is there somthing im missing?

 

You're awesome man!!! I'll do some looking and see what i can come up with. From the sounds of it, new springs to delete the block, bump stops, and go on about my day.... Hope it's that easy.

 

From all the digging up i've done on this topic, there are a few things you can do to help ease the pain.

1. Get the measurement from the center of your rim to you the top of your wheel-well. do this for all 4 corners. this will ultimately tell you exactly how much lift you are going to have to compensate for in the rear since you will know the front measurement. If you give this info to the Deaver guys, they can tell you or recommend which springs and shackles to go with.
2. know that you don't necessarily have to delete the block, you can also get a smaller block and compensate for that in leaf's and shackles.
3. one thing I'm not sure on is the ride quality on the many different options you can go with. for me, I have a 7inch lift and there are 4 things to address if I want to keep lift in the rear.
   1. Shackles
   2. Leafsprings
   3. Block
   4. Shocks

For my specific situation, I'm going to delete the block with 6inch leafs and a 1.5in shackle i believe. Might also upgrade the shocks as well but I would like to see how the ES9000 pro comps ride before i do that.

 

You could probably use a guestimate but in reality you are mainly getting a sense of how what you need to buy to provide that level lift. I personally will go about an inch higher in the rear to compensate for sag over time.