Upper control arm sprung down

Just installed a 3/1 leveling kit from rough country and now my right upper control arm is springing down and pushing the right side of the truck up. Before measurements were left: 36 3/8”, right: 36 7/8”. After lift left 40 7/8” , right: 42”. When I got it aligned they said they couldn’t get the camber in because of the height difference. Will aftermarket upper control arms fix this?

 

A 3/1 lift should not provide 5" of lift in the front. That will create steep angles for your CV axles, limit your down travel, and you UCA is likely pointed to the ground with the truck weight. All of these can lead to serious issues and damage to the front end. I would be questioning who ever installed it and get it removed

 

I personally installed it. The spacers measured 3” before I put them in. I made sure to check. I did put on new KYB struts on along with it so that might be why the left is a little higher than 3 inches until they settle a bit. But the problem is the right side being so much higher and the right upper control arm wanting to push down at all times. Even disconnected it is sprung down. Can barely pry it up with pry bar

 

Maybe you could try loosening the upper control arms bolt/but while the truck is sitting on the ground

this may relieve tension

then tighten it back up after a few bounces

 

Shocks don't need to settle.
Did you put in new springs like I did with Bilstien 6112s?
New springs might need to settle, mine did not.

If your UCA is sprung down, the fix is simple buddy. Remove the upper ball joint, loosen the UCA bolts so it's loose and floppy, then bolt the upper ball joint back to the spindle, then tighten the UCA while it's on the ground with wheels on under normal ride height.

Then it will be sprung properly. There are instructions relating to this, and the LCA when replacing them. They need to be properly tightened at a certain time. I don't have the instructions but my SPC UCA'S said to do it that way.

Also over 2.5in front lift your alignment will never be perfect, just OK, which means tire wear. You need corrective/adjustable UCA'S to make it really right.

Tires are expensive, it's your money.

 

Yeah they have new springs as well. I’m gonna try loosening the upper control arm bolt again. I tried earlier with no luck. I did plan on getting some adjustable UCAs just haven’t gotten them yet. And I know the alignment won’t be perfect my main concern right now is leveling it side to side.

 

When I had a 3.5" spacer lift the actual spacer only measured 1.875". The tundra front geometry has almost a 2:1 ratio - a 1" spacer gives almost 2" of lift, that is why your 3" spacer is giving over 5" of lift. Once you go past 3" of lift (center of hub to bottom of fender) you really need UCA, but you may run into issues with aftermarket adjustible UCA getting you into alignment with that much of preload to the strut with that spacer. If you are 4x4, that hard of an angle to the front axles will cause issues to the CV joints.

 

Yup loosen them up and retighten on the ground with wheels on if you can.

 

This guy is right. I forgot about that spacer equals double the lift issue on our trucks.

Also you need a dif drop. For over 2.5in lift, which I did also, or your going to likely blow cv boots/axles.

 

I did drop the diff. I didn’t know about the lift ratios. Thought I did most of my homework but there’s always something to learn. I think I’m going to take out the two shims and leave in the 2 inch spacer

 

Thanks man I didn’t know about the 2:1 ratio. I’m going to remove two of my shims and leave a 2 inch spacer. I did install spacers on the diff. I also got my UCAs loose so I can properly preload them on the ground once I’m done. Thanks for all the input

 

That's good you did the dif drop

Yes for our trucks, 1/2in any spacer in the front = 1in lift. So a 3in spacer is about a 6in lift. Keep in mind we are talking about top plate spacers. They go on top of the shock tophat. Preload spacers inside the coil over with the spring under the hat makes for supper stiff shitty ride quality, and prematurely destroys the springs, but I believe that is a 1=1 lift ratio that way?

 

Close but not there yet friend.

A 2in spacer will give you almost 4in of lift. That's to much without a bracket lift kit. You will kill axles and ball joints, and probably your steering rack at 4in front lift using spacers.

3in is about the limit of coilovers lift on the Tundra front end. Anymore more requires a true bracket lift kit.

If you want a spacer lift, coachbuilder shims are a good choice. He makes 1in and 1/2in, yes they still equal double when installed.

So you need a 1in + a 1/2in=3in lift.
May need extra 1/2in shim drivers side for tundra lean.

Stock left coilover spring is longer, aftermarkets are all same length. That's why people get left lean with aftermarket coilovers. Shim usually fixes it.

 

I would not ever buy in to the Rough Country brand.Not safe!The previous owner had installed Rough Country leveling kit in 2016.That’s the result of their non existent quality control.

 

I could have lost lives of others and my own family.