What’s the best way to get the transmission tuned?

I’m really not looking for more power but this transmission is annoying on the highway. I have had a 2013 f150 and now 2020 Silverado company truck both of those trucks I set the cruise at 80 and they basically stay in overdrive, it seems like if you hit the slightest incline the Tundra downshifts.

Is HP tuners the best for diy? I'm hesitant to buy a prepackaged tune.

The truck is 2019, all stock including tire size besides a dirty deed's exhaust.

 

I’m loving my transmission since dialing it in with my HP Tuner.
It is not a quick and easy deal though!
First is the cost. You’ll be $600 for the MPVI and credits.
Then, I suggest registering on HP’s forum. I’m involved with a pretty detailed transmission tuning thread that should be geared toward correcting the issues you describe.
There is a member there, SlowNStock. Read everything he posts. Read it again, because there is so much real information in what he shares. Ask him questions if it doesn’t make sense. He’s been instrumental in getting mine dialed.

Tuning the engine (with dyno) made a little difference. Making the transmission work the way it does now made way more of a difference…. No more of the stupid TCC unlocking on every overpass. It’s no comparison, really.

 

Forgot to add that with a canned tune, you’re just getting what someone else thinks is good. Unfortunately, “good” is subjective.

When you do start tuning, just do one thing at a time so you can track what you like and what you do not like.

 

Here's something you can try if you haven't done so already...

Run the same conditions w/the tow/haul button activated. You should notice increased throttle response and a slight re-mapping of the shift points, and if those changes helped improve your concerns, you may want to give a Banks PedalMonster a try before you purchase a tune.

https://bankspower.com/products/thr...us-scion-subaru-toyota?variant=40940401885381

 

Tow/haul only makes it worse, not interested in making the throttle more sensitive. I think HP tuners is going to be the best option.

 

Isn't transmission downshifting because engine is asking for more 'breathing room'? That's what they do, they shift gears for optimum engine operation. maybe easier on the incline and she will keep the gear?

 

My 21 was updated by the dealer due to overheating while towing. I had to push a bit to get them to do it. I noticed right away delayed downshifts.

Here's a picture of the update sticker. I'll try to find the TSB.

Edit: T-SB 0087-21

 

In 6th gear at 60-65 mph, you can’t go east enough on the throttle to prevent TCC release on even the slightest incline, such as an overpass. In a word, it’s stupid.

since tuning, my drivability is much better. Power is up a touch, but the power delivery is substantially improved.

When towing our travel trailer, we were averaging about 7.5 mpg before tuning. On similar trips (distance and hills), we now average nearly 9 mpg. By getting the power to the ground, I’ve picked up damn near 20% mileage when towing a 7,200# trailer.
Unloaded mileage did not change as much, but still close to 10% better.

I’m going to go tow 200 miles today for a fishing trip. I bet I get right about 9mpg.

 

I never run into any sort of problems you've mentioned. In fact, transmission likes to downshift from 6th when going below 50. Once you're cruising above 55, it takes an effort to make her downshit.

 

I’ve cleaned up the timing map a touch on the engine tune with mine but I’ve spent the most time in the transmission. Adjusting lock//unlock, some shift points, touch of pressure, minor things that have made big impacts. Once I get the new gears I’ll have a professional really dial it in but I’m a big fan of tuning the transmissions. Did the same in my Durango and made a big difference.

 

X2. Mine isn't like that at all. At highway speeds the converter stays locked in 6th up to about 92% load and when it goes over that it downshifts to 5th as the converter unlocks. If there isn't a big headwind when at cruise it will even go up the Us131 hills by Cadillac without so much as a nudge of the tachometer. Toyota must have played with the programming from year to year.

 

I use hptuners for the record. Forgot to add that in my post.

 

Cruise set at 80mph small rolling hills and all of sudden I’m in 4th gear nearly 4k rpm, yet it is perfectly happy at 1100rpm at 40mph around town.

 

That’s an odd one! Mine never did that, only the TCC release on any little incline. Most of my commute is rural highway at about 60 mph with small rolling hills. In cruise, it would constantly unlock the TCC, and occasionally drop to 5th on a couple of the rollers.

It now remains in 6th and locked up. It doesn’t even come close to laboring on these “hills”.

BTW, I made it to my camp spot for fishing this weekend. 220 miles total. 100 of them at close to 70 on the freeway and the rest on rural highways with a small coastal range (approx 1,600’ climb) on the way. Plenty of traffic, so no high speed assaults.

5th gear for all towing and drop to 4thfor the climbs. My speedo is accurate and showed 8.7 mpg for the trip on the cluster when I parked.

HP Tuned, 34” tires, 5.29 gears, speedometer calibrated.

 

I’m hoping for a major increase with the gears and a full tune. With 34’s and 4.30’s towing 3600lbs I can do 65 in 4th and get 7.6mpg. 5th is useless unless I’m doing 80. And this is on flat ground.

 

Go 5.29!!! I considered 4.88, but am so glad I went all in with 5.29.

I’ve posted the real numbers on here before, but I can give you some real close ones off the top of my head.

60 mph with 34’s and 5.29 RPM is approximately 275 higher than stock tires and stock gears at 60.

It’s not a huge difference and your truck will love it. Mileage is the same as when I had stock gears with the same 34” tires. Towing is so much better.
Like you said, 5th was useless with 34’s and stock gears unless going downhill…. I hold 5th now until I climb a hill. For comparison, 60 mph in 5th with 34” tires and 5.29’s is about 2,250 rpm. When I drop to 4th at same speed, it’s a hair under 3,000. Since tuning, that’s right where my peak torque is…

You’ll need a tune to get the most out of the gears though. Since the TCU and ECU don’t communicate well, let alone the speed sensors, the truck will be a little confused till you tell it what’s actually going on. After that, it’s so good…

 

The 5.29’s just delivered yesterday. Install in two weeks. Tune right afterwards.

 

Hit me up if you want some trans tune info. Happy To share what I’ve done via help from others.

 

Hp Tuner ordered placed!

 

Dont both Ford n Chevy late model trucks use 8 speed tranny's ? my neighbors f150 does. A comparison to a 6 speed doesn't seem fair.

 

The Ford was a 5.0 and 6r80 so it is a direct comparison, and the Chevy 8spd and 10spd sits top gear and the torque converter doesn’t unlock on minor inclines.

 

Soooo the Tundra has 2 less od gears than either ??

 

I doubt that a 10-speed F-150 has 6 overdrive gears. The ratios likely are similar in the lowest and highest gears, just spaced closed together.

 

The 6r80 is a 6spd ford used from 2011 to 2017.

 

Here is the TSB. I am sure that this will kick of another rant about transmission coolers

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10203529-9999.pdf

 

Is there a general consensus of which tune to go with? I've heard of yotawerx which Is a "canned" tune but it doesn't seem to be popular amongst the group here. Thoughts?

 

I'm happy with my OTT tune.

 

That’s gonna depend on your desired result, as well as your budget.

I believe you can get a “canned” tune from several places for $500 or so. $200 of that is most likely for credits to the hardware manufacturer (HP Tuners or VF) to unlock your VIN. The rest is money to the person that has the tune file. It covers their costs associated with either buying or writing the tune, as well as their time to work on your truck. This tune will likely be locked and you can’t modify it at all.

A custom tune is just that. You’ll pay the same $200 for credits, an additional $400 if you want your own MPVI dongle (also called a cable), and money for dyno time and tuning. I went this route and my total cost was a little north of $1,400. I own the MPVI, as well as all software on it. I can make minor changes to my tune any time I want to experiment. Dyno equipment ain’t cheap, so don’t be surprised at the hourly rate when they quote it!

It is 100% up to the user. Is it worth an extra grand to own your tune and be able to tinker with it? I can’t answer that for you. It was to me.

 

You think they will push back if I ask them, to do it proactively? After all there is a bulletin for it so they should do it if asked? I only have 3600 miles on my 21 but I don't mind doing it and be on the safe side. What would the best way to approach this be?

 

Are are the temps like after the update?