Wheel questions... 35/12.5/22 on 22x12s

So here is the deal- I have an 18 Crewmax, with a 6" lift and I'm running a set of the Arkon Divinci 22x12's with a -25 offset. I have a set of 35/12.5/22 Toyo Open Country RT's on there and now at about 10,000 in everything rides like complete and utter CRAP! The tires have cupped, which causes and insane vibration in the ride of course. From what I was told, (from a secondary 4 Wheel Parts company) my biggest issue was the fact that I'm running 12.5 tires on 12 wide wheels and essentially "stretching" the tires causing the cupping. Is this seriously my problem? I hate the fact I have a very nice truck that looks incredible and rides like an absolute bucket now. Anybody else experience this? I didn't go cheap for this very reason, but it seemingly has failed me anyway. A couple shops said ditch the 22's, they all ride like poo, but damn it man- I love the way my truck looks! Any thoughts or ideas???

 

Ditch the 22s. You have little to no cushion with the tires. That will make a huge difference.

 

What PSI are you running in the tires? Have you played around with it much?

 

Try the new Michelin defender platinum.

 

I would want to know what pressure you are running your tires at too. I haven't had the same setup as you, but here's the issue I ran into in the past when I thought I was and off-roader and wanted cool, aggressive looking tires:

Install E rated/10ply tires (Nitto Trail Grappler and Ridge Grappler) on a truck that doesn't need that high of a load rating (2018 Tacoma). Rides like crap, reduce air pressure, then tires feather and cup the outer tread lugs, lots of vibration at low speeds and extremely loud at highway speeds. Once you get to that point of irregular wear on a tire that aggressive there's no saving the tires.

 

As most of the complaint posts here, your mods are incongruous with the function you want, because they look cool. “I want a good ride” or “better mpg” or “longer tire wear” or “less noise” or “better off road ability” and then put a bracket lift and 22s?? You got to pick one, and you picked look coo. Gotta live with the consequences.

 

I get that, but I also disagree to a point- I've been building cars and trucks since I was 16 and now at 49, I have made my fair share of "mistakes" and I 100% understand the sacrifice of form vs. function most times. But I also look at it this way- vehicles are coming with factory 22' wheels these days, I didn't go with a 24, 26 or 28, and I understand that I have a bit less sidewall, but let's be honest, it's a 35" tire- there is 5.5" of sidewall there, it's not a super stretched rubber band. This is my second Tundra, first one I did a 4" Fabtech lift and ran a 20" Fuel wheel with a -12 offset with a 35/12.5/20 Toyo OCRT tire. 2 sets of them in fact with over 95k miles between them. The ride, while yes, a bit "stiffer" than factory, was still really smooth. So I look at things with a logical point of view- in order to cup tires, there is a mechanical function that is not correct somewhere that needs to be fixed. Is the tire an incorrect size for the wheel? Is there possibly an issue with the lift/suspension itself to look for? What's common? The psi question is a decent question- I'm not sure and I will check that for sure, seems to be a great place to at least start. So I am hoping for some "experience based" input and possible suggestions to look at for solving, or at least minimizing the issue.

I'm perfectly happy to sacrifice a little of "this" for a little of "that", if it makes me happy. I didn't build an "extreme" truck or anything by any means, and I have to think that a "6" bracket lift" is probably the most common things out there for these trucks, and if they all didn't perform to any satisfaction, they wouldn't exist, dealers wouldn't install them as up-fitted trucks on their lots and still warranty them. MPG's suck- they did before and they suck even more now, it takes a minute to get going and takes 2 minutes to stop, my "off-roading" consists of Forest Service Roads through the mountains- not trying to compete in the King of Hammers.I'm fine with all of that, I just want to figure out how to not make milkshakes inside my truck at 45+ mph if it's possible.

 

Ignore all the hate. Your truck is nice. Not how I’d personally do mine, but I am not sure why everyone has to rag on it lol. It’s probably the same dudes that carry a roof top tent around town all year for the 3x times they drive a forest service road.


I unfortunately can’t give you any experienced based advice as my setups are small wheels and big rubber. But I am very intrigued by your issue…
Have all 4 tires cupped? Or just the front?

 

lol- thanks! I love it and honestly that's all that matters. I don't let any of the talk affect me, the internet has been this way for years, as have car shows, car clubs and just about every other aspect of this hobby. Your money = your build. However that may be.

And to answer your PSI question, 34 (warm) on all 4 corners currently. I have not played around with it, but I don't know that airing up is going to help, I would think that would be working against what I was trying to achieve, right? And it was just the fronts that cupped, which have subsequently been rotated to the back, but I can already tell that the now fronts are starting to cup as well as there is quite a bit more side to side shudder in the steering wheel at speed now. I suppose I could "level off" the rears before I rotate again (although not a great option for longevity).

 

So I am far from a tire expert here… But if the rears are NOT cupping, I would assume that would negate the argument that the wheels are too wide. Because front vs back shouldn’t matter if it’s a wheel based issue.

I tend to agree that your tire pressure shouldn’t cause that huge of an issue. But it could be worth starting with that before digging into suspension…

If I were you, I’d run the chalk test and go from there. Free and easy to check off the list of potential issues.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/tire-pressure-chalk-test-how-to-guide.2114/

 

22’s are not my thing but to each his own. My buddy at work bought a used Tundra that has 22” aftermarket wheels on it. When he bought it a year and a half ago it had new Nitto 33x12.5R22 tires on it. He already burned through them and had to replace them. Given the short tire sidewall and less cushion to ride on I’m guessing that faster tire wear and harsher ride is normal for these sized wheel/tire combo.

 

If you do the conversion between the load capacities from the stock P275/55r20 tire @ 33PSI cold to your current LT35x12.50r22 load range E, you should be running 43 PSI cold.

 

It’s not hate, just the facts and the physics. And the most common lift for these trucks is 3” front lift with coilovers and new UCA’s. New rear leaf packs or add a leaf. Most that run 35” tires and not on 12” wide wheels. People that off road are not doing bracket lifts. Most ready to go bracket lifts try to reuse all of your factory shocks / struts / leafs. Blocks in the rear. All are sub optimal for performance off-road and are for looks mostly to clear a bigger tire.

 

Correct. And if I were building a true off roading rig, it would be from the ground up so everything was in perfect geometry, with top of the line parts and suspension and definitely not on 22's. But this truck isn't that and never said it was. It is exactly for the reason you just stated, "look good and clear a bigger tire". And again- I simply don't believe that something as mild as an "off the shelf" lift and a +2 oversize wheel/tire combo should be destroying a set of tires.

And I didn't take your comment as "hate" by any means. Maybe a bit "snarky" for sure, but I would expect that from a 16" wheel guy to a 22" wheel guy. lol It's blondes and brunettes, and in the end, they're all fun to look at and maybe take for a spin around the block.