Will not. Start

Have a 2012 and changed a cam sensor. It started and ran for about 40 miles. Shut it off and started it. It ran for a couple of minutes and just quit. So I changed the rest of cam sensors and crank sensor. Checked all the connections for good connect and probed the wiring for possible movement and losing connections. All was good. Getting fuel so it's not the fuel pump. Still will not start. Anyone have any clue what's going on?

 

Put the factory oem crank sensor back in it.

I can’t count the amount of times I have seen aftermarket crank sensors mess these trucks up and they won’t start anymore.

If you need a new one go buy a Toyota oem one

 

How did you reach that initial conclusion... I'm just curious since I would start cheap then move to the expensive parts. Battery would be my first, yes even if you're driving it will die on you. Some background would be nice as well. Any codes?

 

I ran codes. Came up with crank sensor but some code readers will show crank and it really is cam. I tested crank and came sensors and originally came up with one bad cam sensor. I changed it and the truck started. I drove about forty miles. I thought maybe cam sensor went bad as some times they do so I retested The new one and it tested good. So just changed the rest of them.

 

I did put original crank sensor back in but no go.

 

Good leave it in there.

Clear the codes (make not of them) then see if it will run.

If not I would got to putting factory cam sensors back on one by one until it’s happy.

If I know one thing it’s that the tundra ECUs do not like cheap Chinese made sensor from chain auto parts stores.


Start with looking at what was last modified. A good code reader is key here.


Did you test for spark at one of the plugs?

 

Yes, checked for spark and will try or suggestion. Don't have anything to lose at this point.

 

What is it doing when you start it?

 

Just turning over.

 

Yes, turning over, does it continue to try? or does it cut out? Does it click?

 

It runs the standard 4 turns. Does not click. Does not cut out.

 

Potentially the crank sensor led to fouled plugs and wet plugs will fire in the air with no load, no compression, but they can absolutely fail to fire under the load of compression from being fuel fouled.

If it has no freeze frame errors, either new plugs or pull them and bake them dry. A propane torch works in a pinch, obviously remove them. Just don't go crazy.

 

RE:KeepOnTruckin.
Will the plugs foul out while truck is running. That is what happened. I did originally clean plug wires when I changed the bad cam sensor from any standing oil around them and checked to see if plugs where fouled out or carboned/burnt, the plugs I changed about 7months ago. Again the truck was idleing after driving about forty miles when it just shot off and would not start back up. Plenty of fuel pressure so it is not the fuel side.

 

Test your fuel pump ecu! I have a 2010 with 160 and I’m surprised I haven’t done mine yet…

 

That would be unlikely.
Have you connected to the OBD to gather the Freeze Frame Data? It will will display vital stats the moment a critical code is thrown and I'm guessing it has something.

Any chance for water in the fuel? When was is fuel last and level of the tank? My thought is this: in motion, the vehicles fuel is sloshing in the tank. While parked idle, any moisture in the tank drops out of suspension and settles to the bottom to be sucked up by the fuel pump.

Sounds like a long shot but one bad fuel up can plug the filter and bless you with water that doesn't burn

How was the fuel pressure checked and can you pump some out into a clear jar for examination?