Window Module Auto Up/Down

Anyone try one of the modules?

https://www.3wliners.com/shop/auto-accessory/toyota-tundra-window-control-module-low/

 

following

 

Similar to this post...

https://www.tundras.com/threads/autoloc-auto-window-up-and-down-project.41365/

 

They just figured it out I think and someone is trying to make a plug and play for sale.

 

just installed mine 3W. Works well
Had to run 1 power wire to the door on drivers side
I am now working on the passenger side using autoloc

here is also more information
https://www.tundras.com/threads/3rd-gen-tundra-smart-window-control-system.65679/

 

Curious if our windows have the pressure sensor for when something gets caught in the windows?

 

Any tips on getting the wire through the grommet on the door and up into the engine bay? I’m having a really hard time.

 

Pull the ends of the door boot off and run a stiff ziptie for a feeder thru it.
Tape your wire to it and pull it thru.
Then reattach the boot ends.

As for the firewall boot, you can use a long small flathead screwdriver and stick it thru boot from the engine bay, attach the wire and pull it back thru into the engine bay.
Just be careful pushing it thru to not damage anything inside.

Do a google search of running an amplifier power line thru the firewall for a tundra.
I put a small slit in the boot to feed it thru.
I then used a heavy thick HVAC 36" ziptie to run the wire.

https://youtu.be/SdP_5tSm-uw


https://youtu.be/Zy8trOvLBHk


Also I have the 3W module and I've been very happy with it..

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I’ll try it.

 

For anyone who’s installed this do you have to run the wire to the battery or is the a 12v constant or ignition source you can tap inside the truck?

would prefer not to have to run all the way to the battery if I can help it and I don’t need to be able to roll my windows down if truck is off so ignition power source should be fine for me

 

I believe the purpose of running it all the way to the battery is to make the remote feature work so you could always find another 12v source inside the truck and do it that way. Honestly though the hardest part is getting it through the door grommet and into the cab and that is really not that hard. I think the whole install took me less than an hour to do.

 

Getting the wire to the battery is fairly easy.
Get a long zip tie and fish it through the door grommet and pull the power wire through then the grommet on the firewall is cake.

Theoretically one does not need to run it to the battery but I would highly suggest it.
Window motors draw ALOT of power and I would not want them on a circuit with something else.

This is one of the best mods.

 

Yea I don’t plan on using the remote but y’all convinced me. I had run out of red wire so was going to just tap power in the kick panel if possible. I just went ahead and ran a line to the battery.

I was installing the mirror puddle lights so had run the wire for this at the same time. Waiting for my module to come in still, should be in a day or 2, excited for it!

Thank y’all

 

I've had my window module and just need to install the damn thing...

Also have puddle lights which I never installed because I was unable to remove my mirror glass.

Yours come off okay? Any suggestions?

 

I had a tough time getting the passenger side off, the whole piece came off at first (mount an d glass) and i couldn’t get it to go back on. Finally figured out what happened and was able to get it back on. The driver side popped off no problem.

took me about 2 hours per side to remove everything, run wire, drill hole/mount light, and put it all back together.

def was worth the effort though. Wish I would’ve done it sooner!!

 

Glad you got it handled. I hope to someday, but will probably source replacement mirrors first.

 

OH.. MY.. GOURD!!

This might be my #1, favorite mod thus far! (Not that I've gone crazy, but installed a good dozen)

It was a beautiful day here in the Denver area, and I have the day off due to some painters BSing. Finally got into the 3Wliners window control module.

I did not complete the task as quickly as some others have documented, but I would not say the install is difficult. Requires the removal of 5 plastic panels and like 6 screws.... threading the pos+ lead through the door-to-cab grommet dealio was a bitch for me.

Maybe the large zip-ties are truly the key, but mine are on the jobsite and I refused to make a run to do this install. Used my fishtape, which may have been too beefy.

Yall who have used the zip-tie method; were you able to thread the lead straight thru the factory bundle??

I discovered after several attempts that the rubber grommet is taped to the factory harness on the cab side of the pass thru. I cut a separate hole on the backside (cab side) and pushed the lead thru from outside the bundle on the cab side, but into the grommet with bundle between cab and door. Should be good and weather tight still.


So glad this little, plug-n-play device (and many others) exists, to add some of the creature comfort that our trusty Toyotas simply don't have available from the factory.

This little convenience upped the luxury factor on my fairly plain Jane SR5 so damn much! Now (With remote up/down ability) it's even better than the (much more luxury feature packed) Cherokee and 32 year old bimmer (which has auto up/down)!

Looking at the website to get some direction on a couple harnesses, it would appear they are out of stock, BUT GET YOUR BACKORDERS IN! Im way too stoked about this upgrade.

 

I had the same issue. When I pulled the boot it was taped in the inside. I just cut a small hole in it as far towards inside of cab as I could and fished a zip tie through and pulled the wire through without any issues

my module is suppose to be delivered tom, can’t wait to get it installed when it arrives. Having to manual put the window up has always bothered me when it goes down automatically!

 

@COTundie yes I had to do the same as you.
My truck is a 2014 and the taped bundle was pretty gnarly from age I presume so I did not fool with it much as I did not want to damage the factory harness bundle.

Newer trucks might be easier to separate the tape from the grommet.

 

The tape was buried deep within the recess. No way I was going to attempt to mess with it.

Can't believe I waited so long to install this thing... tho I have had limited pretty days.

 

Installed it today. My drivers window works fine but I feel like the other 3 windows are hit and miss. Is there a trick to getting them to go up/down automatically easily?

 

Mine seems to work very intuitively.

A quick tap of any window control (from driver) and the window will auto up or down. If the button is held for more than about a second, the window will raise or lower until you release the button (so the windows can just be cracked a couple inches).

Remote activation is as advertised, though I have not yet tried the pause function from the remote.

 

Mine works exactly the same you do have to press the button and release really quick for the auto up/down.

 

Are you trying to roll 4 windows down at the same time??
You can only roll one set down at a time.

Also it take some getting used to the buttons and when they decide to catch. If you hold it too long it stays in manual mode.

It is more of a quick tap to work in auto any longer it won’t work.

 

I installed mine yesterday. Had the extra lighted window buttons that I ordered as well. Getting that wire through the firewall and boot was such a pain in the **s! I need to have a friend that knows how to do that better than I. lol.
I zip tied the module and it just barely fit where it is when the panel was back on and I didn't think to run the wire through the grommet above the speaker. All in all it works how I expected.

 

What happened to the pictures?

 

This is definitely a thing.

I was thinking it was just the difference between the driver button with two "stages" and the rest with only one (cuz no factory auto). Figured I was not pressing the buttons the same.

Living with the mod for a few months now, the 3 passenger windows in fact do not function quite as reliably as the drivers window (which is damn near unflappable). I've been very deliberate with my button pushing over the past several weeks, and from time to time it will require 2 or even 3 presses to get the front passenger window to close.

Admittedly annoying to have to deal with on occasion, but I would still much rather have the mod than revert back to factory function.

...I would probably be willing to pay double for the option of closing the rear window with the fob. It's the only one I ever accidentally leave open.

 

Yea after having it awhile I’ve finally been able to get it to function better than originally but still a pain sometimes, although agree it’s better than only being able to auto down the driver window before

for me the driver window works almost perfectly, then the rear doors work well, the passenger front door almost never works right, requiring several pushed to get it to function how I want it too. It is also the slowest of them all to go up or down

 

Hmmm. So yours is getting better and mine is getting worse.. Had to do the triple press entering the car wash the other day.

Interesting connection between the slow window and extra presses. Maybe the window is binding up slightly and overriding the auto up.? My windows are pretty consistent in opening and closing speed.

Think it's only an issue when closing the window and never upon opening, but I'll be keeping an eye on operation more as the weather warms up.