Windows rolling down when I try to exit the truck

Just bought this truck and I'm not sure if the previous owner had Toyota program this feature into it or if it's an aftermarket product gone bad. The driver, pass, sunroof all open fully when the door is opened. a work around this is to open the door before turning the truck off but next time you open the door it opens the three windows. I've looked through the manual and I didn't think it had anything in there but I've overlooked stuff before. I love the truck so far but as currently we are having a rainstorm, this is not something I obviously want to happen.

 

Lol cool feature

 

There might be a feature to close them, but maybe it’s shorting and resulting in them opening instead? Does it have aftermarket alarm?

 

Going by the stock key fob. I'm going to say no to the alarm.

 

Because it’s effecting all three, I feel like it would need to be an alarm module, maybe body ecu. But, seems more likely to be a wire shorting or grounding. I don’t think this is a oem feature, lol. A wiring diagram is next step unless you don’t want to go through a drive thru...then you can pull the fuse.

 

I know when you insert the key in the door and hold it to the left for a couple seconds, it rolls up the windows, and when you turn it right is opens them (or vice versa, try it and see) maybe the contacts are touching, or close to touching, try this out a few times each way and see if it fixes it. Another thing to check is the wiring in the door hinge, in the rubber boot going from the door to the truck, there could be a short there causing the wires to touch and activate the roll down function. Hope this helps!

 

Ahh... this will probably shed some light 2017 Tundra all window roll up/down feature | Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum (tundratalk.net). Like @Sumo91 just mentioned...agree that door hinge or switch most likely.

 

the key when you put it in the handle doesn't want to go counter-clockwise. You may be on to something there. I dont know if its sticking or what

 

I just went to check and it doesn't look like my key lock works at all on the door. key less only.

 

So you can insert your key and it will only turn clockwise per your previous post? If so I'd try spraying some dry graphite lube in there to see if that works and loosens it up, if that's not available to you immediately, you can pull off the door panel and remove the door handle and disassemble the lock mechanism, you may even see something wrong before you get that far into it. If you're handy I'd take it apart and see whats wrong and try to diagnose why it happened in the first place to prevent it from happening again.

But I like taking things apart and seeing how every little thing works. Keep us updated, and welcome to the forum! I hope you stick around, lots of great info here

 

Take pictures of the cables inside the door that control the locking and opening functions so you don't have to look online in case you forget where they go, it's happened to me before.

 

Good idea. Ill pull the inner door panel and see whats up. Thanks, Ill report back.

 

Any updates yet? I'm watching this thread mainly out of curiosity.

Also, our 2008 sequioa has this feature apparently. Sunroof, and both front windows will roll down/up with the key. Rear glass also. It was neat to do because I had no idea.


I'm hoping this is an easy fix for you.

 

I won't have time to open it up until tomorrow at the earliest. I've had Hondas and BMWs and MINIs that all have done this and I am fond of this feature. There's got to be something wrong or in a bind in the door. Thanks for the well wishes.

 

Well today's the day. I'm gonna take the drivers door off and take a look. I didn't see any aftermarket accessories under the hood so I can't imagine why its acting up. Well see.

 

Your door key switch probably needs replacing. I'm surprised you haven't had battery discharge problems with the switch apparently always closed.

You may be able to loosen the lock cylinder up mechanically by working with it, but probably better just to replace the switch cylinder after having a locksmith rekey the new cylinder to your key.

 

Yeah as soon as I plug in the switch to the back of the lock the windows go down. Do you think that's a separate piece or will I have to replace the whole handle assy.

 

I believe this is the part you'll need to replace, but you'll have to verify the trouble is isolated to the switch/cylinder. The switch/cylinder is supplied separate from the drivers door handle. Have supplier of the part double check fit for you:

https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-door-lock-cylinder-690520c020?c=Zz1ib2R5JnM9bG9jay1hbmQtaGFyZHdhcmUmbD0yMiZuPUFzc2VtYmxpZXMgUGFnZSZhPXRveW90YSZvPXR1bmRyYSZ5PTIwMTQmdD0xNzk0LWVkaXRpb24mZT01LTdsLXY4LWdhcw==

 

Thanks. I was looking while I turned the key on the outside and it has no mechanical effect. I could see that opening my windows. The door locks with the keyless entry but not with the key. So its locking and unlocking somehow. I guess I'm a little confused.

 

OK, I've looked at this a little closer. The lock actuator is probably what you will actually end up replacing, and it's a more expensive proposition. The key switch in the door handle is strictly mechanical, and has a flat bar that enters the lock actuator. When the key is turned, the bar turns a round cylinder in the actuator with a "+" recess. That round cylinder unlocks the lock mechanically and has the electrical switch to do the other stuff. (See actuator parts listing, pics and diagnostics below.) If the cylinder cannot be turned, then your lock actuator is likely done.

Of course, if it's the key cylinder that simply mechanically jammed, you're lucky.

https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-door-lock-actuator-motor-690400c050?c=Zz1ib2R5JnM9bG9jay1hbmQtaGFyZHdhcmUmbD0xNyZuPUFzc2VtYmxpZXMgUGFnZSZhPXRveW90YSZvPXR1bmRyYSZ5PTIwMTQmdD0xNzk0LWVkaXRpb24mZT01LTdsLXY4LWdhcw==

 

Great info as always @JohnLakeman ! I bet he could probably split the case on the lock actuator and find the problem, something could have gotten mis aligned or knocked loose. It'd be worth a shot for sure! I split mine open to replace the motors, maybe someone before him did this exact same thing and didn't assemble it correctly afterwards, judging by the smeared sealant on the door plastic.

 

I don't have slot 9 or 10 to do a resistance check.

 

So I opened it up and lost a spring.....so a new actuator it is.

 

Since terminals 9, 10 are called out in the Repair Manual, I'm inclined to believe your cavity count started from the wrong side; e.g. there are no wires in cavities 5,6. This pic shows the connector as seen on the actuator through your door harness hole:





The problem might also be in the lock rocker switch up near the power window switches.

 

So I replaced the actuator and all is well. Thank you all for all your help.

 

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