What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

go down to the single vs dual section
https://mpbrakes.com/single-and-dual-diaphragm-boosters/#:~:text=A dual diaphragm offers the,diaphragm booster would be ideal.

But the better fix would be a sequoia MC, because i hate over assisted brakes. Probably why i prefer the buells big single disc over the dual discs. More modulation, less like an on/off switch.

the booster just amplifies the pedal pressure. Disconnect & plug the vacuum line & drive around & you can feel how much for the pedal would need.


i had a whole explanation written out using this image:

And how one cylinder was the MC piston & the other was a brake piston on a drum setup & how its opposite for a disc setup, but i confused & frustrated myself.

 

Physics.

 

The nova had manual drums. Couldnt skip leg day in traffic.

 

Count me in! On the final push of my current project, I should be free after the 8th.

The truck at H&H has a master and booster if I remember correctly. ABS too. Probably a cheap OEM direct swap option.

 

Rear main is here. Doubt I’ll let it in today with our schedule. Hopefully tomorrow

 

I used some like those machined units and mine do not cam over properly. My windows rattle. If it was my DD I would have to deal with it.

 

I personally used

$8 Window Latch Hinge Pivot for First Gen Tacoma Tundra Rear Quarter Window 1995-2004 Tundra 2000-2006 Xtracab 2pcs(Black)

this Listing and have no complaints. Also you can manipulate the body side bracket a smidge to tweak the fit.

They are all have questionable geometry/QC from the geographical region that shall not be named so ymmv.

 

Well, consider yourself lucky then.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1612#post-3182827

More info on how that came to be:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/vent-window-pivot-arms.134826/#post-3416010

PSA to the rest of you heathens: Remove the door card and the latches if you do this update, or risk paying dearly like me. It's easier to drive out the pins and drive back in with the latches out. But don't bother with replacing unless yours are currently broken.

 

Both mine are broken but the windows stay closed so I leave them be just because of how much of a headache this can turn into.

 

It's really a super freaking easy update, as long as you pop off the door cards so you can remove the hinge assembly.

 

So metal ones are good just make sure to fully remove the whole latch assembly and do it on the bench to reduce the chance of breaking then?

 

Yup. I took a short scrap piece of 2x4 and drilled a 1/2 hole in it as a receiver. Then used punches to tap the pin into the hole on the soft wood, keeping your eye on the position of the piece you're tapping out (i recommend tapping out one side, install one side of the replacement, then tap out the other and repeat. If you don't have a punch assortment, a 10 penny nail with the tip ground off should suffice. Hell, I can't remember if I tossed mine, but if I can find them and you want them, they're yours. I'll cover the ride if they're going to you, specifically.

When I ordered replacement OEM assemblies, they arrived in beige b/c that's apparently the only color you can get, any color you order is beige now. So I had to punch pins out AGAIN to swap my charcoal covers onto the new OEM assemblies... Such tedious shit.

 

I just ziptied mine shut haha

 

https://optoffroad.com/collections/...connect-sway-bar-links?variant=43967551668482

Found these and thought they looked interesting. I didnt know anyone made sway bar quick disconnects for FGTs!

Also found a guy with these bumpstops on instagram and thought they looked interesting as well! Might give em a try

https://www.perryparts.com/

 

Replaced the 3 AC panel T10 Chinesium bulbs with......different Chinesium bulbs because I will never learn. Do y'all have a part number for the plastic bulb holder? My middle one is almost kaput and wiggles in the socket. Thanks.

 

Does the bottom half just flop around when disco'd?

What stops the swaybar from spinning around and potentially getting jammed up where you don't want it?

I've genuinely never been able to fathom how you can QR swaybar links and not potentially create more problems.

 

Oh and I'll save others the pain of navigating that Perry website. Apparently it doesn't like Chrome on Win10 very much. Here's 1GT products: https://www.perryparts.com/tundra-1st-gen

 

Yea that is definitely something i wondered about as well. I dont have a sway bar on the front anymore so not something im in the market for, but just wanted to share.

 

Fixed my broken wheel stud today. Got the stud fixed and broke the lugnut setting the stud into place . Then spent an hour trying to find a thin 6 point blah lugnut for my scs wheels. Super nice dude at a custom wheel shop got me an almost identical, but 7 point lug but threw in the wrench adapter all for $10. Threw him a $20 and called it done.

in other news, the rear brakes look good!

 

Pretty sure you can buy em at superbrightleds.com

 

I would have sprayed a whole can of Brakleen on that and relubed the contact points. But I'm a freak sometimes.

 

I was doing a “roadside repair” I only had the jack for the spare tire, a tiny hammer and a few sockets. Believe me I would have like to clean all that crap out of there

 

Road is the best place to do it - less stains on your driveway

 

Ordered. Thanks. I'll update if they fit correctly.

 

quoted you in the other thread that you linked haha oops

 

"the" deer? I mean there's been like 5 or 6 deer between you & pops & sequoia & Tundrii....
"the deer"

 

The replacement window seals for my topper finally came in from ARE. It's a completely different design and I was worried at first but the window seems to seal a lot better now. I can tell a difference when I close it. Especially the non broken window.

The previous design tucked into this channel all the way around. This rides on top. I'll report back if it still leaks. Total cost for 25' was $100. Which sucks but sleeping in water sucks more. I have 4' left over. I'm guessing similar products can be found online for less. The part # is ARE-19019




Side by side comparison. Old on left.

 

I called them this morning and that relayvwill not work on DRL equip Trucks weather or not theyve been deactivated.

 

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C4bvvyZv_xr/?igsh=Zm5raG5kaXFoaXd4

 

2002 toyota tundra for sale by owner - Orange, CA - craigslist

Looks like prices might be starting to come down here in california. This is a clean FGT!