1st Gen camper shells

I have a 2006 Tundra with 120,000 miles on it. I have been trying to find a used camper top for it. What years have the same bed dimensions. If I had an f150 they are plentiful. It has a bed 76x67 X-cab. Are there other brand pickups with the same size bed?

 

I take it you have an access cab? What color? Craigslist is your friend but what region are you located? Going to be a little tricky to find one I suspect.

 

It’s Maroon. Yes an access cab. Phoenix Az. New ones about 4K. Only thing I don’t like is the Az sun has taken a toll on the paint. 6500 to 8500 for a paint job these days.

 

In socal there are tons for sale. Keep looking, find one that fits perfectly

 

Yeah, I'd expand your search radius and be willing to drive. NV, CA, NM, maybe even Texas? So Cal should have a few but could be pricey as well. Have you also considered a soft topper and ruled that out? You might have some decent options at reasonable prices with that.

 

Good and bad thing, only toppers for FGT will work. No other beds interchange. They are out there, just keep looking. They are totally worth it.

 

Haven’t really considered a soft top. Want something to camp in and stay warm.

 

There is a company in Calif that makes a camper I really like called Belaire campers but there again at least 4K.

 

Mine isn’t a soft top, it’s a LEER 100R. I called around to local topper stores and found one there. They guy said it had been at his yard for quite sometime. He said the ‘problem’ is the only fit first generation tundras. In my eyes, that’s a positive so they can’t be used on other trucks. I paid $350 for it. They come up for sale pretty often in Colorado but you have to be quick.

 

That attaches to bed rails. Not a slide in.

 

Took me 3 months to find one in Cali that was color matched. Paid $800, I should have paid $600. Bought it at night, drove two hours to pick it up. Paint was in worse condition than I thought after looking at it the next day in daylight.

 

Think OP is looking for a slide in camper not a camper top. When I hear camper top I think of a bed topper. Seems like they have about 100 different names depending where you're from.
My topper sits in the back yard by the shed where it will stay until I decide I need it which is pretty unlikely. It's one of the ones that gets taller in the rear and it's just too ugly for me to use. I'll never find another paint matched topper so I'll just hang on to it.

 

Yeah, I'm in the same boat. Mine came with a color-matched topper, but I have no use for it. I hate storing it, but know I'll never be able to replace it.

Not to highjack the thread, but are there any creative ideas out there for storage? I was thinking of storing it up on posts in the corner of the yard to use as a cover for my mower... anyone else used the topper for a dual purpose when stored? Or can you store it tipped up on a side?

 

If you find one for a double cab it should work too. I have an access cab but my topper was made for a DC. Brand is ARE-V series.

 

Nope. Not looking for a sled in at all.

 

If you were close, I'd take it off your hands for the right price. I've been hunting.

That said, when I was a kid, my dad did just what you said - built a 4-post stand out of pressure treated 4x4, dropped the shell on top. It became a canopy for lawn equipment and bikes. The top of the shell was about 6" taller than the privacy fence.

EDIT:

I'm adding to this post at @The Black Mamba's indirect request, after two years of hunting and finally finding a suitable cap ... it has everything I can possibly think to share on measurements, advice, and what to look for in caps, and other tips, all on the 1st page of the camper shell thread. I'd ask OP to put it in the 1st reply, but they haven't signed on for 2+ years.

Anyway ... here, learn from my exhaustive search and success!

Generally speaking, Facebook Marketplace ("FBM") has the best selection of caps I could find anywhere; OfeerUp, Nextdoor, and Craigslist were fruitless for me and most others I talked to. Searching for tundra camper shell topper cap on FBM with a 100-mile radius set was very fruitful for me, though I did get a a mix of all kinds of crap but only 1 per day was typically for a 1st Gen within 100 miles of a major city like Atlanta, YMMV. After a few days, I used the 'last 24 hours' filter for my own sanity, and just refreshed that browser tab a couple times per day to see new listings.

I personally found my cap in less conventional way, by searching for tundra access cab, and I started asking anyone selling their truck for a fairly price with a cap on it, "I've been searching for a while for a shell that fits my 2006 Tundra but not having luck. If you're open to selling only the cap, I'm willing to give $200-700 for yours, depending on the condition, like if you have keys, if there's any cracks, leaks, carpet,whatever". I ended up scoring a really nice Leer 100R, in the wrong color but with working keys/locks, slider windows, and a few nice upgrades for $400.

If you've hunted for a cap at all, you probably already know, too many f'n people list caps w/o telling you what make/model truck it was on. Or they don't list a year. Or they don't show it on the vehicle. Or only give measurements. Or say stupid shit, like, "Probably fits multiple trucks", but can't say which.

Knowing the cab type is super important because, for example, a double cab cap is ~1-2" too short to fit an access cab without leaking. Access cab and regular caps will fit long on a double cab, regular cab caps will fit comically long on any other cab.

Generally speaking, if the seller say it's off a 2000-2003, if accurate, it's either for access or regular cab (double cab started in '04). It should be glaringly obvious if it's for regular cab, they're 1.5' longer eh? If they say it's from an '04-'06 ... there's no "easy" way to tell if it's double or access cab, unless they happen to post a photo of the serial number plate (which is pretty unusual, IME) and that plate happens to list the truck model (which is typically limited to A.R.E. brands, IME).

Nothing from an '07+ Tundra fits our 1st gen trucks properly.

Nothing known from T100 will fit our trucks properly, there's more chatter about that later in this thread.

Nothing known from other makes/models/brands fits our 1st gen trucks properly.

Someone posted a chart on here last year showing bed measurements, and we confirmed we have a weird footprint, there really aren't any good crossover options.

If all you get is measurements inside the advert, you're looking for 67"-68" width in general. Some caps like my Leer have a flare at the bottom and are more like 68½" wide. For bed lengths, dimension measures that could indicate it's for your Tundra are you probably want to see on caps ....

• Double cab hunting for 75-76" length (i.e. 67x75 or 68x76)
• Access cabs hunting for 77-78" length (i.e.67x77 or 68x78)
• Regular cab hunting for 100-101" (i.e.67x100 or 68x101)

Outside of that, some warnings to keep in mind, things to check, and other considerations when shopping:

• Check for window damage: Replacement glass is EXPENSIVE, to the tune of $300+ for a single side window, and that's only if the manufacturer still makes it
• Check carefully for signs of fiberglass/paint cracks especially structural cracks at the corners, window openings, and clamp-down spots
• Check for general fiberglass holes/damage/evidence of repairs, excessive chips at the edges ... fiberglass repairs aren't "easy", and often DIY jobs are garbage
• Paint-wise, clearcoat failure is common and requires sand/re-clear or full repaint. Look for cracks in the paint or waves in the paint which could reveal repairs or underlying damage, even something small non-structural crack like THIS is not ideal ... and also know, a GOOD professional re-paint is going to set you back $350-550, mid-grade supplies alone for a DIY are $150-200 (~8-12 rattle cans of paint minimum)
• Check for / ask for evidence of water leaks, "... is it water-tight?"
• Confirm latches and window sliders work
• Confirm keys and locks work. If no keys are available, you should know there's typically a letter/number stamped into the face of the lock barrel you can usually use that number to find a suitable key online searching for "<cap-brand> <letter/number on cylinder> <key>", example: "Leer DT001 key", and they're usually only $10-15 shipped
• Confirm the rear door pistons hold the door up by themselves, if not you're looking at another $50-75 for a matched pair of decent quality pistons (the size of the piston is usually stamped on the piston body, FYI, and it's pretty simple to replace)
• Confirm screens are present for slider windows and free of holes
• Confirm the brake lights work ---> Carry a 9v battery with you! Red wire goes to the small battery terminal, black wire to the big terminal, brake light should light up. If not, decent replacements are $30-70 usually
• If carpeted inside, check for splotchy stains that could be signs of mildew, look for tears, rips, separation from the shell wall/roof
• If it's raw fiberglass inside (no carpet), look for dark stippling which is typically mildew, and look for loose fibers/fiber separation, like the resin fell out, especially around window edges, it's a sign of structural failure
• If the cap is drilled anywhere, whether that's for roof rails, lights, fishing rod holders, whatever ... look carefully at it, and be ready to remove and re-seal those spots.
• Sticking with major name brands like Leer and A.R.E. will likely unlock access to additional accessories, window upgrades (i.e. swapping sliders for windoors, changing a non-slider cabside window for a removable slider, etc.) and the ability to replace broken glass.

Price-point wise, chances are if something is less than $200, it may be garbage. $250-800 seems to be pretty normal for a quality shell, with $400-600 being the most common price point I typically see online. My thoughts?

• $50 - 200 for something that has all the windows intact but needs work, like paint, door pistons, new window seals to deal with leaks
• $300 - 500 for something for something functionally sound, no major leaks, all windows intact, with working lights and locks, but maybe has small issues like missing keys, a non-structural cracks, but may not have all the bells and whistles I'd like.
• $600 - 800 for something that's not perfect but pretty damn close, carpeted, with working lighting, but may be lacking bonus features I want like ... "windoors" (fold-open side windows), removable sliding front window, roof rack, and it's already painted the correct color
• $900 - 1,500 ... I'm not gonna lie, if I would've found a premium, paint-matched cap where the paint was flawless, carpet is installed and pristine, it was the style of top I liked
• $1,600 - 2,300 => This is what I was seeing at cap/shell stores that were selling used (at the low end) and refurbished (at the high end) shells
• $2,400 - 3,200 => This is what I was seeing cap/shell stores selling new caps, depending on what features, barebones and lacking carpet (at the low-end), and fully loaded with carpet, windoors, rails, lights and power (at the high end)

After you get the cap home ...

• Wash it thoroughly, clean the windows slots and expect some water to get inside when you do, it's normal
• Vacuum carpet if so equipped; this is a good time to inspect more deeply
• If no carpet, If it's raw fiberglass on the inside, I'd spray a homemade bleach solution on it, I use 2 TBSP of bleach inside a full bottle of tap water, shaken, is ample; give ample time to dry, wear eye protection, don't wear clothes you care about
• Check the bulb seals where the cap meets the bed, especially at the cabside. You may need to replace the seals ... if so, use a standard "double-bulb seal" which is readily available on scAmazon.
• There's a rubber bubble seal on the rear window frame that cushions the door when closing that flattens/tears over time, or may be gone, but can be replaced, this can usually be found searching for "t-channel rear window seal for truck shell" or "t-slot rear window seal truck", and the "T" part of it is 3/16" which will sometimes be listed.
• Look for any evidence of metal-on-metal contact with the rear door, and any other hinged/folding windows or doors.
• Check the outer window seals for evidence of cracks or damage, and make sure the slit on the rubber seal is at the bottom edge of the window, not the top edge.
• There should be a rubber seal at the bottom of the rear window, check the condition; if it needs replacement, this is often referred to as a "topper door seal" or "leaf with offset T" (either "single leaf" or "double leaf"), and the "T" part of it is 3/16" which will sometimes be listed.
• Get the brakes wired up, and on that point ....

Some tips on wiring your cap brakes in ... There's easy access into the driver brake light housing via the threaded holes for your bed tie-down (remove the bed tie down), if you need a temporary solution. Since you'll need to tap into the brake wire behind the brake light housing, be smart and use a low-damage tape like Posi-taps to avoid butchering your wires, and potentially killing your OEM brake lights (they're kinda important eh?). DO NOT use scotch-loks, t-taps, or similar hackish wiring bullshit products on your factory wires, it's just that: Bullshit, hackjob, riggery. Anything that requires you to smash a wire into a metal notch will damage your factory wiring, either by cutting strands, or by via oxidation.

Also, if you intend to provide 12v to the rear, remember to use a fuse within 12"-18" of your battery on that wiring run. Ideally, run the wire inside loom, and electrical tape the loom to protect from the elements just like OEM.

The above is a lot to take in, but ... if you're hunting for a shell, this should give you all the info you need to make a good purchase.

 

Search around on YouTube. I’ve seen people build racks and I’ve also seen people with tall garages/shops use a hand crank winch to lift it and store it against the ceiling.

 

Here is a shell in CA, color matched to your truck based on the above

Check out this item on OfferUp.

I would offer less and ask for more photos of that rear window

 

OP . . . Not sure if this was mentioned in the thread, or you may already know that there is a little bit of difference in an access cab shell and a double cab shell. It's a pretty small difference, but I have seen it shown here in a post somewhere. If I remember correctly I think one hangs over a little more on the other, sorry I don't remember which way it was. If you find one that you like, you may want to double check the fit before purchasing just to make sure.
Something else kind of un-related I found when I sold my 2003 access cab and bought a 2006 double cab . . . the 'depth' of the bed on the double cab is 'deeper' than the access cab (Floor of bed to top of bed rail) . . . I forget by how much, but I seem to remember it was around 3 inches or so. Good Luck in your search.

 

Thanks for this! Been looking around for a while and these guys might be exactly what I am looking for on my own build.

 

Check this camper out.

 

I dont understand what you are saying here?
Are you looking for a Topper or an enclosed Camper?
I have not seen a single Slide in pictured here so you might be confusing what you think looks like one for an older style Topper?

Mine is sort of like that too but is just a topper.

You should also just get a Tape Measure and measure the crap out of the bed and make a seller do the same with theirs if not the same design and see if you can get lucky.....Old School!
I have had success with that too!

 

What????

 

I know this is an old thread and I'm sure the information provided here is correct, but I have to ask anyway. Has it been confirmed that only a FGT topper will fit a FGT? Are there absolutely no other toppers from any other make / model that will fit?

 

Nobody has managed to find one that fits reasonably well. At least one person went directly to a new & used warehouse full of them and asked, they took measurements and supposedly couldn't find anything that fit and "matched", whatever "matched" meant. Did it just not fit, did it have a weird gap up against the rear of the cab?

And to make matters worse, these trucks have 3 different bed lengths based on cab type, so two different cap sizes until mid-1st-gen when the double cabs came out, and 3 cap sizes from that point on.

Someone posted a grid/matrix of some sort on here showing what the cap dealers use to feel for alternates. But I feel like it was a picture IIRC or a link to a website, so I haven't been able to find it since.

 

Thank you for the input. There are AC caps in my area, just either trash or overpriced. It's a buyer's market for F-150 tops and a seller's market for FGT tops. I appreciate your knowledge.

 

AC shell is easier to find than RC shell. Count your blessings.

 

@RUSTYNUTS didnt you say your cap was from a dodge?

 

Negative.
@The Black Mamba, don’t quote me on this, because I never checked myself, but I have heard that T100 caps are compatible with 1st gen AC’s. Good thing about buying a used cap, is that when you go to pick it up, you’ll know how well it fits before you drive away. I drove 45 minutes one time to meet a guy with a cap for sale that he assured me would fit my truck. He looked as surprised as I was when it was 4 inches too long. Then he said “it don’t look bad really, and it’s already on there so….. tell ya what I’ll knock fifty bucks off and it’s yours”
Haha. Hard NO but thanx